Proposal to design a "First Build" engine

[Tin Falcon]

AeroE:
Advance and be recognized citizen. Post an introduction about yourself in the welcome sub fora. Please tell us a bit about yourself, your shop and your interests in model engine building. And please give your location. This info helps us help you when a question is asked.
Lots to learn hear and we love helping new folks learn.
Tin

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Welcome to the forum AeroE.

Whereabouts in Missouri are you?
I used to live in Springfield.
Went to HS in Waynesville.

 

[AeroE]

Welcome to the forum AeroE.

Whereabouts in Missouri are you?
I used to live in Springfield.
Went to HS in Waynesville.

I grew up in Mountain Grove. I live near O'Fallon now, working for Boeing. My current project is Massive Ordnance Penetrator ("Now There is No Place to Hide"), my last project was Countermine System (world's largest shotgun, most awesome, too). My technical specialty is strength analysis, but I have expertise in the application of other technology.

Right now I own two Unimat SB type lathes, and will probably be adding a Clausing 6913 in the next week or so. Most of my shop equipment has been aimed at airplane construction and car maintenance, and now I'm going to learn how to make a lathe and mill sing!

I'll see about fixing my profile later. I added my location, but it ddn't show up in this post.

 

[ksouers]

AeroE, welcome to HMEM.
I'm just across town from you in Harvester.

 

[davehall]

perfect. exactly what i was looking for. how exhausting looking at the myriad of tools, attachments, and such. Now i have a good list of tools to start sneaking into the house

 

[johnthomp]

heres a thought from a bit of a newbie use the simplest easiest tasks from different builds off this forum such as the basic frame from chucks horisontal single in 2 stroke form wich can be simplified to just cutting and fileing from 6 mm thick alu plate or flat bar roughly 2" wide then introduce an old brake cylinder from a car drum brake to introduce cast iron and modifications also the bore and piston is done for you with no reaming and one end can be easily blocked by drilling and tapping something like an old coin to one end of it and as the slave cylinder has a flat side itll be easy enough to make a slideing valve chest for that useing the aluminium plate as mentioned before and i reaccon to keep things simple it could be held together useing 3mm x 25 mm panhead screws like the ones they sell at b&q so readily and to boot all the metals you may need more than likely will be in the metal stock racks at b&q warehouse stores up and down the brittish isles might i add the 4 and 6mm prass tubeing is pretty damn cheap there aswell as for bearings and suck the average old vcr will have evrything you could ever need even a flywheel ;D my first engine was made useing these rules and as for tools all i had was my lathe a few taps n dies a file and a hammer drill it took patience and a steady hand but it payed off as you can all see in my profile pic now lets have some real fun boys and girls

 

[T70MkIII]

This morning I was cobbling together the pieces to start a metric EZ build, and I noticed an error that was quite small in the scale of things; the metric plans call the flywheel diameter out at 50mm rather than 75mm. I'm sure it would still run fine at 50mm (particularly with a steel flywheel which I will use) but I know that wasn't the intended diameter.

My apologies if this has been mentioned before and, of course, for the pun ;D

Not sure yet if I'll start a build thread (there are already quite a few) but I will do so if I get stuck in case the answers also help someone else.

 

[jolijar]

I am new to machining and am taking a college class to learn how. I am fascinated by small engines and other mechanical devices. I think I am going to attempt to build one of these engines during my lab time. Do I have to hook the engine up to a air compressor or could I build a small boiler and power it using steam? If I can use a boiler is there a specific one that you would recommend? I know how to solder and I am learning how to weld and do brazing. Also what type of paint did you use to get that wonderful finish?

Sorry for all the questions. I'm just interested.

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Welcome to the forum jolijar.
If you're knew to this (like me), I'm thinking start with air.
I can't help much with your other questions.

 

[Maryak]

Jolijar,

Welcome to our forum. wEc1

Best Regards
Bob

 

[black85vette]

Do I have to hook the engine up to a air compressor or could I build a small boiler and power it using steam?

Also what type of paint did you use to get that wonderful finish?

Jolijar; welcome to the forum.

I think starting off with an engine running on air is a good start. Steam presents its own set of problems. Air is simple, clean and safe.

The paint is truly what ever I have on hand. I use several high temp paints for automotive work like engine and brakes but also use good enamel paint. A good finish is as much about how you paint as it is the paint you use. Basically I advise to go light at first to get the bottom layer to dry out and stick. Then one or more coats to get coverage. A final coat is the trick. You have to put enough paint on to get it to flow and be smooth but not so much that you get a run. That is where experience comes in.

If you decide to build this engine you will find plenty of help here. There have been several of these built by members of this board so you have all of their builds to draw from. Plus there is just a ton of experience here and people willing to share and help you out.

 

[jolijar]

From the Instructions.

5/8” round brass stock / 2” long for the bushing or turn down some of the 1/2”
piston stock.

is this some trick I don't know about? If so please explain how to turn a 0.500 rod into 0.625 rod. ;D
on a more serious note does it matter what size I make the bushing? I am ordering my materials soon.

Is cold rolled 1018 steel suitable for the valve?

Also what size tubing should I get for the air inlet?

 

[black85vette]

is this some trick I don't know about? If so please explain how to turn a 0.500 rod into 0.625 rod. ;D

on a more serious note does it matter what size I make the bushing?

Is cold rolled 1018 steel suitable for the valve?

Also what size tubing should I get for the air inlet?

This is a specialized piece of equipment called a reverse lathe. Instead of making diameters smaller it makes them larger. :big: oh: List should say; 3/8" or turn down from 1/2". Bushing is 3/8ths, but it is not at all critical.

Just about anything will work for the valve. Go 12L14 if you want something easy to work with. I also like brass.

Tubing is what ever works for how you are going to connect to it. I use clear plastic line for the air and use a tubing that will make a snug fit. You can also use the barbed type fitting made for air lines.

 

[JRPetersen]

Hi guys,

I'm new to the forum, and have selected this engine to be my first engine. I began searching to try and find to various materials and found everything but the 1/4 by 1/16th inch brass used for the connecting rods at a reasonable price. The connecting rod brass is difficult to find and when you can find it, is VERY expensive. Are there any possible substitutions for the brass? Maybe aluminum? Great job on the plans! Keep up the good work!

Thanks,

Jeremy

 

[black85vette]

Jeremy; Welcome to the forum. You will find a lot of helpful members here and many of them with tons of experience. So just ask anytime you need to know how to do something.

This engine was designed to be easy and flexible to build. You can substitute almost anything and make it work. You can find flat stock and just cut strips from it. Aluminum will work just fine. Brass was used because it looks good. The key is adapt, substitute and just make it work.

Start a thread on your build so we can follow along. Oh yeah, you also need to know we like pictures! th_wwp

 

[chucketn]

Jeremy, if you're in the US, try a brass door kickplate from Lowe's or Home Depot. Enough material for sveral hundred...

Chuck in E. TN

 

[JRPetersen]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the great advice, it is much appreciated.

Black85Vette; Thanks for the advice on the different materials. I had been wondering if they were substitutable. I will be starting a thread shortly. I'll update you when I do.

Chuck; Great advice! I managed to find one from an old door we removed several years ago. It looks like it will work just fine.

Thanks again,

Jeremy

 

[shred]

FWIW, be very sure the kickplates you get at the store are actually brass and not brass-plated, anodized or some other other scam against humanity. The majority of 'em at my local store are just shamming being brass.

 

[hakuna]

Started my first engine....it's and EZ-Engine! I began a topic: http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=11047.0