Bryanbdp - I composed the message below off of the forum. then I clicked on the forum to post it without knowing what all the other posts were above. So, rather than throw away the reply to you I'm just going to post it anyway below - perhaps it will be helpful to someone in any event. (Then....if I need to ask for anyone's forgiveness I'll be back.)
here it is:
Hi Bryan……………
Due to health reasons primarily, I haven’t had my lathe cranked up for quite a few years now but [feeling much better now] I am getting it ready (with some additional tooling) to get back at it.
To answer your question: Frankly, I don’t recall what is energizing that thing – either 110 or 220 – just don’t remember. But it wouldn’t be hard for me to know…….I would just look at the configuration of the plug end. I was in the shop tonight but wasn’t around the lathe. So Bryan, from where I am in the house as I write this I can’t answer you at this time of checking emails.
However, I can tell you this: Any respectable motor manufacturer with affix a schematic diagram usually pasted inside the motor junction box that is typically mounted directly onto the motor somewhere. Now again, from where I am as I write this I can’t say whether that sticker/label is affixed to my lathe motor or not but it should be.
So, let’s assume that somewhere around your motor, or in the motor’s junction box, there IS a label/schematic - then it will tell you how to convert or changeover the ‘’line’’ connections to operate on 220. Likely, given that it is a ‘’fractional’’ motor (i.e., anything under 1hp) it probably is a 110v only. I would be very, very surprised if is designed for 220 configuration. And, if there is no such schematic affixed somewhere then it would be safe to assume that it is not 220 capable.
I don’t know if you’re in Canada where I am but we have not only UL certification on electrical devices but a ‘’CA’’; designation as well (certifying of course that it meets our National Electrical Code. I would think also that part of their certification requirements is that motor manufactures are REQUIRED to have a proper schematic diagram [label/sticker] attached some where. I do not believe that certification authorities would permit manufacturers to OMIT affixing a label to the motor and only have the schematic printed some where’s inside the operator’s manual. A schematic would/should ALWAYS be part of the motor.
Lastly, in view that the entire machine is an ‘’off shore’’ model – an otherwise polite term for the dubious term ‘’ Chinese’’ – I simply do not trust much that we receive from them anyway. That is, even though there are UL and CA requirements, you and I both know that what ‘’off shore’’ stuff that we purchase is often hit and miss in terms of quality or even properly worded manuals or documentation……….at least that has been my experience – but that’s a whole other topic aside of your direct question.
Also Bryan – one last point……… I don’t know what your electrical knowledge and experience is but I will take the safe route and advise you with this: If by chance you CAN rewire your motor to a 220v configuration then of course you will be bringing in to the motor 2 hot wires from your electrical panel, or a secondary junction box, or electrical outlet. First, the plug-in end MUST be for 220v operation that in itself the 220 prongs pattern are configured for a specific operating current (i.e., amps). And, since there are 2 hot wires, the code says that – if you end up using a white and a black wire from the source – that at your electrical connections - at BOTH ENDS of the white wire - that you give it a couple wraps of black electrical tape to designate that the white wire is actually a ‘’hot’’ wire [*see off-topic comment further below]. I hope you can envision this because it’s a bit hard to explain only in words. And, it is by code that in your electrical panel where your 220v current uses two 110v breaker spaces – be sure that those 2 breakers are tied together by the little clip that attaches the two breaker toggle levers together. Now mind you…..if you use a dedicated 220 breaker then the previous sentence is a moot point because the toggle levers of a legit and dedicated 220 breaker are tied together anyway. Have I got you all confused by now? If you know all of this anyway due to experience and general shop knowledge then of course you won’t have any problem.
Let me know how you end up with this situation. Its now nearly 1:30AM here now but tomorrow I’ll be back in the shop and will take a look at my lathe. (It’s a King that I purchased in 2004 at a time when the manufactures did not offer any additional tooling accessories to fit – such as a quick change tool post.) I’ll look to see if my motor is 220v capable – but as I say, likely not.
Hope that it works out well for you.
Bryce.
[* This is way beyond your original question but it may be helpful to someone: In another life many years ago I was a sparky for awhile......... I soon learned that taking on any renno jobs or re-wiring can be very dicey and dangerous due to working around electrical circuitry that has been tampered with, modified or expanded by D.I.Y homeowners who were unknowledgeable about electrical code requirements nor even some of the most basic electrical wiring practices. Therefore, if you are the second owner of your home or home shop, as you probe around in your home shop electrical wiring an abundance of caution would be in order. Likewise, I would encourage anyone to ensure that whatever electrical work they undertake is correctly done so that electrical work does not inadvertently create electrical hazards ready to befall the next homeowner.]
