PIP 3 Cylinder Radial

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Joined
Dec 18, 2013
Messages
786
Reaction score
1,039
Location
Victoria, Australia
I have been working on a 3 cylinder radial for a few months, this is where I am upto at the moment
Had a carpel tunnel op so taking it easy for a while

1716727946117.jpeg



I will add more photos of parts and setups


Receipt0.jpg
 
Last edited:
Looks good so far. I looked long and hard at a set of Pip plans and finally decided to build an Edwards 5 cylinder instead. I didn't like the crankcase induction system and I wanted whatever I built to be spark ignition. The Edwards looked to be a better choice. We shall see.
 
Off to a good start

PIP was featured in Model Engine Builder mag, over three issues if I remember rightly. Digital back issues still available quite reasonably priced
 
This is the diffuser it is driven by a pin in the crankshaft and this will also drive the distributor through a gear box
This might answer some questions that danallen and petertha had about ignition
I plan to use a hall effect sensor for the spark ignition


IMG_1811.jpegIMG_1813.jpegIMG_1815.jpegIMG_1817.jpegIMG_1821.jpegIMG_1823.jpeg






 
Last edited:
The distributor and gearbox is my own design as others mentioned this was originally designed as a glow plug engine, that would be the reason the intake is through the crankcase to lubricate the bearings
I think if the through the crankcase intake doesn't work very well it would not be to hard to plug the intake hole and change it so it goes straight through the intake valves.

This is the gearbox I came up with to drive a distributor


IMG_1851.jpegIMG_1861.jpegIMG_1866.jpegIMG_1864.jpegIMG_1833.jpeg

IMG_1781.jpegIMG_1783.jpegIMG_1785.jpegIMG_1789.jpegIMG_1790.jpegIMG_1792.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Machining the master rod, the larger hole is threaded and the bronze bearing the goes in it is threaded also, it has to be made this way because the bearing is screwed in to the rod after it is installed in the engine and on to the crankshaft, because there is no way you can get it on the crankshaft with the bearing installed in the rod first
The bronze bearing is locked in place by the slave rod pins, these pins are also threaded and screw into the master rod

IMG_1645.jpegIMG_1647.jpegIMG_1639.jpegIMG_1641.jpegIMG_1643.jpegIMG_1644.jpegIMG_1656.jpeg

 

Latest posts

Back
Top