Overhaul of a 9" SB model "A"

[kozzmo999]

I had the bed ground on a 3 1/2' under mount motor 9A.

Got done for less than $300, if you can get it done cheap enough why not? considering you are going through everything and milling and scraping other parts why not do everything.

Almost seems like, with all you have done, dealing with the bed would just be part of the whole thread!

David

 

[steamer]

Hey Dave,

Who did the grind and when? $300 is pretty cheap....the flaking is still showing though...even by the chuck...only just barely at that point.

Dave

 

[steamer]

I'm chuffed!

I fitted the index latch on the turret tailstock, it needed the boss around the shaft reduced in diameter, and I moved the pin anchor up 1/8 of an inch, and presto! she indexes perfectly!

Put her away, and I now I found a NOS set of half nuts for a reasonable price, so that was procured!

Now just need to get through the bushing!

Wished I found the half nuts before I bought the bronze, but .....such is life.

I'll write up how I was going to do the half nuts,

Dave

 

[steamer]

Just got this lamp

Halogen with a mag base and water proof. At a reasonable price

Dave

 

[GailInNM]

Dave,
I had a lamp that looked like it had the same head on it as the one you just got. It worked very well for a about two years. All the wiring inside of the head cooked and the insulation fell off. Eventually it shorted. I tried to replace the wiring with silicon wire, but eventually gave up as every thing was cooked and brittle. I had noticed the smell of overheated insulation in the shop for a while but could not isolate where it was coming from.

Mine came with a 50 watt bulb in it. You might want to consider changing to a 35 watt bulb if yours has a 50 watt bulb in it also.

As I say, it worked well, but keep an eye on it. Take a look at the internal wiring on the head when ever you change bulbs.

Gail in NM

 

[steamer]

Thanks for the Heads up Gail! I'll do that!

Dave

 

[steamer]

Well, tonight I performed a test set up on the lathe to verify that the set up was attainable and stable.

I turned up a bushing who's OD was equal to the inside diameter of the unworn section of the worm bearing and the ID size to be a snug push fit on the lathes leadscrew.

I then put the SB leadscrew in the Logan.....in a 5C collet chuck in the hs side and on a center for the other end.
With the bushing in the bore and the half nuts closed, I determined what thickness of packing piece I would need to get the apron on center. ( 0.510)

I set two adjustable parallels to this dimension and set them up.

I checked the alignment by replacing the bushing with the worm gear and it didn't feel right.

I noticed that the leadscrew was .005" HIGHER on the HS side than the tailstock side, so I lowered the HS side by .005".

That got it!
But how could I be sure!

 

[steamer]

So what to do

I decided that it would be best to measure this from the lathe side, so I brought the saddle to the end of the bed and installed the leadscrew hanger with a tight fitting shaft installed and measured the drop

I took that dimension (2.394") and transferred it to the Logan via some gage blocks and a indicator.

It was within .001" and the worm floated on the leadscrew by the amount of the clearance between the components.
This tells me that I got the same answer by asking the question in two different ways....or to say it cross checked.

I don't think I can get it any better than that.

Knowing now that I can achieve the correct alignment on the Logan, Next I'll break this set up down and turn the bushing for the part, then set back up and then replace the leadscrew with a between centers boring bar and line bore and bond the bushing in place. Then finish the bushing to size.

 

[steamer]

Started on the bushing tonight.....but got tied up.......

GO PATS!!!!


Dave

 

[steamer]

Congrats Giants ...you earned it.

 

[steamer]

OK, got the bushing done.

I'll have to bond the part in. I'll use Loctite 648 cylindrical bonding compound.

You'll notice the "keyway" on the OD that pierces the flange . That is for the bearing wick.
Once the bushing is installed, it will be bored in place to .996"/.998". When I get to that diameter, I will have broken into that keyway. That will allow the installation of the SouthBend designed replacement wick. Just like the original.

The flanges are designed and sized to take up the .06" ( ) worth of axial wear the old girl has suffered.

At that point, I'll put back the parts and the NOS half nuts and we're done with the apron.

Next....the BED and the base.....stripping that should be fun. :
Dave

 

[steamer]

Well....got as far as getting the apron back up on the Logan and nearly complete with the alignment for boring. Then ran out of steam....long day

This weekend holds promise!

Dave

 

[crab]

I'm still watching Dave,your doing an amazing job.I have not been able to start on my 9A yet but I hope to soon.Thanks for showing all your great work,I have learned a lot.
Bill

 

[steamer]

Crab, thanks for your interest and support!

OK , got the bore......bored ;D

The bushing is a nice fit with about the correct clearance for the 648 Loctite.

Then I put the washer on the back side, you'll notice the "captured" wick groove. Once it's to proper size, the groove will open up and I'll have my factory wick groove back.

Got to let it set for a while...maybe later today.

Dave

 

[steamer]

OK Mission complete!

Here's the wick groove

Ready to go back together

Progress!

Dave

 

[ttrikalin]

Wow,

been away for some time and you have almost finished the restoration! Hold it, I want to savor the process!

Will study the updates since december!

:bow: :bow:

take care

tom in MA

 

[steamer]

Tom! Thankyou for your interest and support!

OK the apron is back together! All except the half nuts, which I am waiting for.

All wicks are in and everything is painted and lubricated.

From behind,,

From the front.

That was satisfying to see....a real transformation...everything turns nice and smooth

So that brings up the next question....Now What?

I am seriously thinking about putting it all together as is and doing some checking before I strip and paint the bed.

The bed is very long and quite heavy, and I will need to work on the logistics of managing it carefully

I'll think on that.

Dave

 

[lathohn]

Great work on the apron.

I'm curious though. Did you do any polishing on the machined surfaces, and if so, what's your recipe? Steel wool, scotch-brite?

John

 

[steamer]

John,
Thankyou for your interest!

On the handwheels, scotchbrite in the lathe....Everything else was just cleaned in the soup ...and occassionally a bit of polish on a rag.

The SG will take superficial rust off. A brass bristle brush and SG can do wonders!

Dave

 

[steamer]

Well I took stock of the realities of my shop at the moment.
There is no room! I need to make a temporary tank to clean the bed. The bed is 54" long! So I'm looking at a 5 foot long tank, nearly a foot deep! I really want to strip it via Simple Green and a brush that I've had so much luck with to date.
But there is no way I can do this, as the shop is crowded now...it won't be functional with that tank in there.

It's half way through February. Here's my plan.

I'll leave the bed as is for now and focus on the smaller stuff for a few weeks. Things are coming to a head at work, so I know more hours are in my future....meaning less time for the 9!.

So Here's the list in order of priority ....at least for today.

Make the gib for the T slotted Cross slide and install the rest of the hardware in it.
Add the adjustment block to the TS base.
Mount the bed to the base.
Mount the countershaft bracket and countershaft and motor...if for no other reason than to get it off the floor!
Level the bed and check the alignments. Scrape in the TS to height.
Buy and install the belts.
Build the collet draw so I can put the collets away.
Put the casters on the base.
Machine the clamp screw for the QCTP
Wire the motor.

By that time, the weather should be good enough to pull the bed off and paint the bed and the base outside where there is room.
Dave