old tractor LANZ HP 4WD 1923 (scale 1/4)

[ZAPJACK]

Dear all,
I'm really disappointed because I want to be more active on HMEM, but not yet retired and have "only" 28hours in a day.
I start a very exciting model build in Germany by JT-modelle (Tobias & Klaus)
Don't hesitate to take a look on www.jt-modelle.com
Quality castings in Cast-iron, Aluminium, Zamac, folded steel profiles, internal-gear, etc...
Two stroke engine, differentials, reductor, clutch, gearbox, it's a very complete kit.
I wil also keep your attention about the "5 stars" "after-sales" service.
LeZap
Detailansichten 2.pdf

 

[ZAPJACK]

I start the kit with the machining of the wheels. at first, the flanges from bar-stock aluminium foil. After that, machining in steel the diabolo form bearing holder. Four time the same. Start the assembling of the spikes, rims, everything with copper rivets and rivets-gun.
The supplier for the rivets-gun and the rivets is www.ateliermb.com in Switzerland.
Regards
LeZap

 

[ZAPJACK]

Here is the riveting of the pads on the rims.
General view of the spikes when painting
détails of the wheels and the four wheels together.
Amazing that the small wheels are on the back side of the tractor !
LeZap

 

[Herbiev]

Looking great so far. Thanks for sharing.

 

[dozerdroid]

Thank you for sharing, I'm going to enjoy this one.

 

[ncoonen]

That looks like an outstanding model. The video clip on https://www.jt-modelle.com/ is very intriguing.

Is the kit sold by jt-modelle.com or somewhere else? I did not see any kit information on their website.

Please keep us posted with your progress.

 

[kadora]

Hello ZAPJACK
Is possible to buy this kit ?

 

[wirralcnc]

Count me in for a kit

 

[ZAPJACK]

Dear, of course is possible to buy a kit.
Please contact directly jt-modelle in Germany. mailto: [email protected]
they speak english
Regards
LeZap

 

[ZAPJACK]

The aluminium casting block is aways a problem, because there is no flat side
And you need to check to have, at mins, two faces flat and square at 90°
Boring is also a challenging job, because it's a long bore with vibration risks for the tool.
There is an idea of tooling made from 20mm silver steel and HSSCo cutting end.
I made also a jig of the opposite side to avoid the vibrations. The result is quiet good with an error of 0,05mm (0,002")
LeZap

 

[ZAPJACK]

The cylinder is coming from GGG60 Iron-steel, nothing special to made it, just the transfer port are inside
LeZap

 

[ZAPJACK]

The connecting rod is made from aluminium bar-stock.
LeZap

 

[ZAPJACK]

P34 is the raw machined half crankshaft
P54 is the mounting jig. this is to have the same centering on both half crankshaft
P55 machining the crankshaft
P56 all the parts before assembling
P57 hot assembling by expansion
Regards
LeZap

 

[ZAPJACK]

The motor blok is quite complicate for machining
Need to respect the orthogonality of the difference axles.
Many checks, measurement, zéro setting .....before machining
But I let you discover by the pictures
LeZap

 

[ZAPJACK]

Some other picture of the engine bloc.
On a sinus-table is much more easy
LeZap

 

[johnmcc69]

Nice work! That's going to be a real nice model.

John

 

[ZAPJACK]

First blank mounting of the crankcase
Machining of the cylinder-head on a centering jig
Piston made from cast from cast iron
LZ

 

[ZAPJACK]

This is the oil pan & oil pump.
Not truth but simply factice
LeZap

 

[ZAPJACK]

Now, one of the flywheel in cast iron
LZ

 

[ZAPJACK]

This is the front differential housing.
Must be machined carefully, because there is no "second chance"
LeZap