"Nina", a Gauge 1, 0-4-0 live steamer. Progress and updates

[kvom]

Nice build, just got caught up.

I'm decoding your forum name as executive officer of the 18th field artillery. Right?

 

[xo18thfa]

There are 2 little tasks we need to pick up before soldering the boiler. The first is to solve a problem I know is going to happen with the top and bottom plates. The plates fit just fine, but will become unstable as the torch warms the boiler and will fall out of place. I know it will happen. To solve that, drill 3 small holes around the edge of the vertical barrel and drive in some copper pins. The pins will act as a shelf for the plate to rest on during soldering. This is what we want:

The second thing is to make a fixture jig to help install the site glass bushings. The site glass bushings must be flat to each other or the site glass will not line up correctly. Here are the parts for the jig and the bushings.

Assemble the jig with the bushings. The bushings are flat against the jig and will line up as we need them.

Put the assembly in the vertical barrel. These bushings are ready for solder.

There are a number of silver soldering techniques and methods. They all work as long as the resultant boiler passes all its tests and operates the engine in a safe manner. The best method is the one you grow up with or are the most comfortable with. The techniques I use comes from Kozo Hiraoka and his construction of 3.5” gauge live steam geared locomotives. Wolverine Joining Technologies has some very good online instructional documents at their website (www.silvaloy.com/home.php)

The solder is a medium-low temperature alloy consisting of 45% silver, 15% copper, 16% zinc and 24% cadmium. The common trade names are: Easy-flo 45, Silvaloy 45 or Safety-silv 45. It has a melting temperature of 1125F and flows almost immediately. As a word of caution, cadmium is poisonous. It vaporizes during the soldering process. Do your silver soldering outdoors or in a well-ventilated shop.

Silver solder requires a flux to chemically clean the metal as it heats. The flux is a white, water-based paste specifically matched to the solder. There is also a black colored flux used for stainless steel. The white flux is intended for non-ferrous and regular steel. All manufacturers and suppliers of silver solder have the flux as well.

I believe the 2 most important things in good silver soldering are the torch and understanding the flux. The torch must produce a large volume flame of low temperature. The solder melts at only 1125F, so there is not much need for higher heat. A propane-air torch with interchangeable tips is commonly used. This is the torch I use:

This torch comes from Sievert. It consists of a regulator that connects to the tank, 10-foot hose, a valve handle, neck tube and interchangeable tips. The gas tank is a standard, refillable 5-gallon bar-b-que tank. The tips I have are the #2942, #2943 and #2944. The #2942 is the small tip on the bench. It has a max output of 26Kw or 89,000 BTU. The #2943 is on the torch. This tip did all the work on the Nina boiler running at about 2/3 throttle max. It has a max output of 44Kw or 148,000 BTU. The big #2944 is a real volcano. I only fired it once and it scared the snot out of me. Its max output is 86Kw or 300,000 BTU.

The second critical thing after the torch is reading the stages the flux goes thru during soldering. Out of the jar the flux looks like toothpaste. As it first heats, the water boils off and leaves a white cake. The top of the white cake turns brown as it begins to melt. The flux continues to melt and turn brown. As the heat increases the flux starts to bubble and turn more transparent. Each time a bubble pops you see very bright shiny metal underneath. The flux reaches it’s final stage when it is almost completely clear. At that point, just a pinch more heat, the solder melts and runs like crazy. The flux has a maximum temperature of 1400F. After that it chemically breaks down and is useless. No amount of heat will make the solder work if the flux burns.

The silver soldering process is not too unlike regular soft soldering. The parts have to be clean and close fitting. The book says that parts must fit between 0.002” and 0.005”, but 45% silver solder is fairly forgiving stuff. It will gap more than that, but try to the utmost to get within tolerance. There are no tricky joints on the Nina boiler. If you are careful, everything will fit fine.

When the soldering is done, let the part cool to room temperature. There is still a lot of flux left on the parts that needs to come off. Leftover, melted flux is chemically removed in a process called “pickling”. Pickling is an acid bath that dissolves the leftover flux with eroding copper. The pickle bath is 10 parts water and 1 part sulfuric acid (ordinary battery acid). I have not tried it, but citric acid works too. I understand that plain vinegar works too, although very slowly.

The first parts to solder in are all the bushings. They go in easily. Apply flux and solder them in. Here’s what the top plate looked like immediately after the torch shut down.

The shiny area is the leftover flux. The blackened area is unfluxed. After about 15 minutes in the pickle tank, the plates are ready for the next step.

Solder the site glass bushings to the vertical barrel using the jig to align them. After pickle, remove the jig.

I used the site glass jig for each soldering step. Just as a precaution in case the solder re-melted for some reason. You don’t want those bushings coming out of alignment. Remove and clean the jig after each soldering step. It gets crusty from the heating/pickle bath and you don’t want the risk of it freezing in.

That’s enough work for now. Next time we will get into the heavy solder work.

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Great post. Very helpful.

Thanks!

 

[ozzie46]

Very informative soldering post .Thank you. Keep up the good work.
Watching with renewed interest.

Ron

 

[SAM in LA]

Bob,

Thank you for the detailed post on how you soldered your parts together.

Your parts are looking good.

I am following you build closely.

SAM

 

[4156df]

Bob,
Another very informative post. Nicely done. Do the support rivets require any special attention during soldering to insure they get sealed and soldered?
Dennis

 

[kcmillin]

I really like this build. These little loco's are real Cool. So I thought I woulod subscribe to your thread so I dont miss any more.

I will be watching with much intrigue. Your post on silver soldering is great. I cant wait to try it now.

Would I be correct to assume that a standard propane torch does not have enough btu's to get the job done on such large parts?

Kel

 

[xo18thfa]

Thanks fellas.

I just noticed that I "fat fingered" the keyboard and did not get the last photo in. That's fixed.

Dennis: Yes they do. They need flux and a bit of solder when the top and bottom plates go on.

Kel: The "old school" method of soldering a boiler involved packing the boiler in burning coal or coke to provide background heat, then use a gasoline blow torch to get the last few degrees to melt the solder. Today some guys pack the boiler in burning charcoal briquettes, use a blower to get them hot and then use a MAPP gas torch to work the solder. So, yes you can, but not by itself. It sounds like a good method.

 

[xo18thfa]

Today we are going to get the boiler weldment finished and ready for a pressure test. The first job is to solder the vertical and horizontal barrels together. This is the most difficult joint on the boiler, because it is the intersection of 2 curved surfaces. It is extremely difficult, if not impossible to solder this joint with the boiler remaining in one position. You will either have to solder it part way, let it cool down, clean it up and reheat the next part of the joint. Or reposition the whole assembly while it is hot and continue to solder the joint.

If you choose to reposition the boiler to continue work, keep an eye on the flux. Flux is good for an initial heat and usually 2 re-heats. By then its pretty much worked away. You will have to stop, let it cool down, pickle and start over. The solder can re-melt many times without affect.

Here is the initial set-up for this step.

Not only do you have to worry about the technical aspect of soldering, but also the position of the barrels. They have to be square, plumb, level, flat and all that too.

One thing you learn quickly on this joint is torch control. The vertical barrel is more massive than the horizontal barrel. Apply more heat to the vertical barrel. Other wise the horizontal barrel heats up first, melts the solder and sucks it all away, while the vertical barrel is too cold to work. The hardest part of silver soldering is deal with odd joints and dis-similar sized parts. Just have to practice.

When the joint is done, remove from the pickle and clean under running water with a brass wire brush. Closely inspect the joint from both sides to ensure good solder penetration and a smooth overall fillet. This is the last joint you can visually inspect from the inside. If you get this one right, you can be confident that the others will turn out fine.

For me, I positioned this assembly on the top, both sides and the bottom to ensure the solder flowed all around. During inspection, the inside looked good, but there appeared to be a pinhole on the side. So it got fluxed up, positioned and that side re-soldered.

Next is the soldering on the top and bottom plates. Here is the setup prior to the torch.

The site glass jig is back in for this job. Notice the short lengths of solder buried in the flux around the edge. The plates solder in with much trouble because flat surfaces are easier to work. The small pieces of copper rod that the plates rest on need solder too. Some of them may solder on the own with the plates, but some won’t. Let the assembly cool and then setup again to do these. Reposition the boiler while it’s hot and get them one at a time.

Now it’s time to solder in the flue. Put the flue in with the front flue sheet in the horizontal barrel. It is basically the same task as soldering the barrels together. Do the backhead end first.

Reposition and reheat as needed to solder the flue in.

The front end got a little more difficult. Heat radiates thru the barrel just fine but only melts the solder against the inside of the barrel. The flue stays too cold to solder. To fix that, we used a second torch (regular Bernz-o-matic propane) operated by Andy (my son) to run extra heat up the flue from the inside out. That got the flue hot enough to solder just fine. If that did not work, I was ready to simply cut off the smoke box and get at it directly. Unfortunately, I did not get a picture of that step.

With everything soldered up, clean with a brass brush and have a good look.

All of the joints on the Nina boiler are exterior. You can get to all of them for repair if you need to.

It was an all day job soldering the boiler together, mostly waiting for it to cool down and pickle. Next time we will do another air test on the motor and a pressure test on the boiler.

 

[bearcar1]

Terrific write-up and photos of the silver soldering process Bob, thank you for sharing it with us.

BC1
Jim

 

[xo18thfa]

Thanks Jim.



The first air test on the motor was on an unregulated air source. It was just to test the motor and give it a good break-in. There was no way to tell what pressure it was running at. This time we will use a pressure gauge to find an actual operating pressure. Last time, we discovered that the spring holding the cylinder to the portface was way too weak. The air pressure lifted the cylinder off the portface. This time there is a stiffer spring.

For this test, cobble together a manifold with a pressure gauge close to the motor. Add in a stop valve, which is a modified refrigerator water valve and a swivel connection to the air hose.

This is clearly not an ideal solution. A good quality air compressor with a secondary pressure gauge is the way to go. I am too cheap to get a good air compressor.

Hook everything up and give the motor another test.

The reason this manifold is not ideal is because as the motor rotates between power stroke and exhaust, the pressure gauge oscillates wildly. The pressure drops during the power stroke so the gauge is low. During exhaust the air pressure is cut off and gauge is up.

After a lot of experimentation, I determined that the motor operates best at 25 PSI. With no load on the wheels, the motor flies at about 2000 RPM. With a finger applying a load to the wheels, the motor speed drops to about 600 RPM and thru the gear reduction the wheels turn at about 140 RPM. At that speed, it’s powerful. The nasty gouge on my finger still hurts.

Knowing an operating pressure, it is now time to pressure test the boiler. The normal test doctrine is to plug all the holes, fill the boiler with water, and attach a hand water pump and pressure gauge. Pump the boiler to two times the operating pressure and hold that pressure for 30 minutes. Rather than use a hand water pump, I used the air compressor. I also tested the boiler to 80 PSI, instead of 50. In the unlikely event this boiler ends up on a different engine, I want it to handle a more usual Gauge 1 operating pressure of 40 PSI.

Using the same parts from the air test manifold, get the boiler ready to hook up to the air line. The boiler is full to the top with water.

Attach the air line and build pressure. Look for water leaks.

I stopped the test twice because the plumbing junk insisted on leaking. After all that got fixed, the pressure was held at 80 PSI for 30 minutes. No leaks in the boiler. My son, Andy, who is equally knowledgeable in Gauge 1 live steam operations, witnessed the test. And to stake my reputation in a public forum, here is the gauge reading just before shut down

So what happens if there is a problem? The two problems I had on past boilers were an insufficient joint and a pinhole on a bushing. The insufficient joint prevented pressure from building up at all and shot a stream water all over the shop. The pin hole leak made it difficult to maintain pressure and sprayed a mist all over. If there are any problems, you will know it right away. The problem will be obvious and the test a failure. Dis-assembly the test and re-solder the bad spot.

Out of curiosity, I did some theoretical performance calculations.

How fast (or slow) will it go? The wheels are 1.375” diameter. Each turn of the wheels moves the engine 4.32”. At 140 RPM on the wheels, the engine moves 605” per minute. That works out to .84 feet/sec. The main line at our club track is 305 feet, so it’s about 6 minutes per lap. That’s good. Nina will certainly upset the high-speed mainline guys.

Does the boiler have enough steam producing capability? The motor has a .500” bore and .688” stroke. That is a volume of .135 cu in. Each revolution of the single acting, single cylinder engine will consume .135 cu in of steam. At 600 RPM the motor uses 81.05 cu in of steam per minute. At 25 PSI, 1 cu in water produces 640 cu in of steam. To produce 81.05 cu in of steam at 25 PSI, the Nina boiler will have to boil off .127 cu in water per minute. About 12.7 square inches of heating surface (water in contact with a surface heated by the fire) is required to do that. This boiler has about 15.3 sq in heating surface. It should have enough capability to produce all the steam we need.

How long will it run on a single fill of water? Leaving about .500 open space at the top for steam accumulation, the vertical leg of the boiler holds 1.25” of water before the top of the flue is exposed. With an inside boiler diameter of 2.5”, that is 6.136 cu in of water capacity available for steam. Based on the consumption calculation, the Nina boiler should produce 3927 cu in of steam at 25 PSI. That will give 29089 revs on the motor. At 600 RPM, that should give us 48.5 minutes of run time. If that ends up true, then we may need a separate fuel car.

Next time we will get on the smoke box front, stack and maybe the smoke box saddle.

 

[xo18thfa]

After being sidetracked with a table saw rebuild project, it’s time to get back on Nina. The next phase is the front end of the boiler, starting with the smokestack. There are no drawings for the stack or other front end parts. Since they are mostly decorative, you may choose another style. Here is a shot of the stack cleaned up and ready to install:

The stack consists of 4 parts. The top cap, the stack tube, a base, and a base flange. The stack tube is a length of half-inch copper plumbing pipe, which is actually 5/8” diameter. Cut a piece to desired length and square both ends.

The base has an unusual shape. There is a rounded portion on the bottom end that allows for a smooth fit with base flange and the boiler smokebox. The rounded portion is the most difficult to do, so let’s do that first. Everything else after that is straight turning.

The base starts out from 1” square brass. Cut a 2” or so length. We are going to cut the rounded bottom using a modified horizontal boring technique. Modify the wooden jig used early to cut the large holes in the boiler barrels. We will need to fabricate an in-line boring bar. An 8 to 12” length of 3/4" steel rod will do fine. Face both ends and center drill. Drill a hole for the cutting tool and tap a set screw to secure the cutting tool. Here is the holding jig and boring bar ready to go.

Secure the jig with brass stock to the lathe cross slide. Set the cutter in the boring bar to swing the exact radius needed for the base flange. In my case, the base flange came from a copper coupling pipe 1 5/8” diameter. So set the radius on the boring bar to 13/16”. Mount up the boring bar in the 3 jaw chuck and stabilize the other end with the tailstock.

Engage the half nut on the lathe carriage, taking about .020” depth cut on each pass. Continue taking .020 deep cuts until there is a clean cut across the entire bar. Cut both ends of the brass stock. We will need the other side later on for the smoke box saddle. Before you know it, it’s done.

I was very surprised how well the wooden jig worked out. It was rock solid on the cross slide, no chatter at all and the cut turned out glass smooth.

Now center up the square stock in the 4 jaw chuck and turn a decorative profile.

Next, drill and bore a 5/8” hole to accept the stack pipe.

Part off the stack base from the square stock. Turn it around in the 3 jaw chuck and finish the parted end. A soft round over with a file is all I did.

For the base flange, bore a 5/8” hole in a length of copper coupling pipe. The coupling pipe has an inside diameter the same as the outside diameter of the horizontal barrel on the boiler. Bore the hole the same way as you did on the boiler.

Cut out a section of the coupler pipe and round over the corners with a file. Drill #51 sized holes in the corners to accept 0 x 80 machine screws for mounting the stack to the smokebox. Here’s the stack base and flange ready to silver solder to the stack tube.

The top cap is a straight decorative turning. Turn the outside to profile, bore for the stack tube, everything just like for the base.

Finally, all the stack parts done.

Silver solder the stack, pickle and clean up. Hang it on the boiler for a look-see.

I think it turned out very nice. The stack is not hard to make, but it is very time consuming. It involves a lot of tool set-up and chuck changing on the lathe. Next time we will do the smokebox saddle and the smokebox front.

 

[4156df]

Bob,
Very neat approach on the base. Thanks for showing it.
Dennis

 

[xo18thfa]

Bob,
Very neat approach on the base. Thanks for showing it.
Dennis

I saw in an old UK home shop machinist book the use of wood packing to in-line bore a steam engine cylinder. I thought no way it would work. But, maple wood machines very well to a reasonably close tolerance. The wood set-up worked fine. Need to try it on steel or cast iron yet.

 

[xo18thfa]

Today we will continue with the front end of the boiler and get the boiler mounted on the engine frame. The smoke box saddle uses many of the same construction techniques as the smokestack. Fortunately, the saddle is not as complicated as the stack, and we already have the most difficult part done. Start by setting the boiler on a flat surface and measure the distance from the bottom of the smoke box to the table. The overall height of the saddle must be such that the boiler sits squarely on the engine frame without binds or distortion.

Cut out the saddle parts as you did for the stack. Drill a hole for a #2 machine screw in the center of all the parts:

The machine screw holds everything together while soldering. Silver solder the saddle together and remove the holding screw.

It is better to use 2 or more screws to hold parts together for silver soldering. Assemblies have a bad habit of loosening up just about the time the solder wants to flow. The saddle base decided to squirrel around on me right after the solder melted. Fortunately I was able to keep it hot and tap it back in place.

Next is the smoke box front. It is basically a turned ring from 1/4" thick brass plate with a hinged door. Rough saw a slab of brass and drill a 5/16” hole in the center. Sandwich the brass stock between two hex nuts on a bolt. Chuck the assembly in the 3 jaw and turn the outside to the desired shape. About 3/16” of the smoke box front fits inside the smoke box. Turn this portion to a good smooth fit.

Put the reverse jaws in the 3 jaw chuck and turn out the bulk of the inside of the smoke box front. Leave about 1/16” thickness on the front and 1/8” on the walls.

Now chain drill and file an opening in the smoke box front for the door. If you go with a round door, turn it out on the lathe. Cut out and shape a door. The door should be about 1/16” larger all around then the opening.

The door is functional, so we have to make up some hinges. They are simple strap hinges made up from 1/8” x 1/32” brass strip. Bend the strip over a 16 gauge (1/16” dia) nail.

Then finish the hinge by squeezing in the vice. You have to practice this a few times, but soon they come out nice.

Trim the hinges to final size. Drill the hinges, door and smoke box front for either a 0 x 80 or 00 x 90 machine screw. I happen to have some scale 00 x 90 model hex bolts leftover from another project.

Silver solder the hinges to the door and smoke box front. The little 00 x 90’s probably won’t hold to well on their own. Fashion up a cutesy handle. This handle is fabricated from a 2 x 56 screw, a small turned hub and a 16 gauge nail for a knob.

Attach the smokestack and saddle to the smoke box. The machine screws on the back go thru the smoke box and are fixed with nuts on the inside. The screws on the front go into tapped holes on the rim of the smoke box front.

I think it looks very nice, if I do say so myself.

Mounting the boiler to the engine frame is an exercise in locating and drilling. Center the boiler on the frame. The front to back position is not too critical, just don’t interfere with the manifold on the engine. The boiler is secured with two 6 x 32 screws going into the bind bushings on the bottom of the boiler. The smoke box saddle has four 0 x 80 screws and bolts.

It’s really starting to look like a steam locie now. I guess it’s time to start thinking about the style of the engine. I have absolutely no artistic talent so I don’t know. Nina is going to have an open top wooden cab, that’s all I know. After that, I will have to plagiarize ideas. Paint color, trim, I have no idea. Suggestions are very welcomed.

The last 2 mechanical phases are the plumbing and burner. The plumbing is straightforward. The burner has some options. A torch type burner like Mr Glaser used on “Cracker” or a conventional poker type. I am thinking about trying a bottom feed fuel tank with a pre heat loop. Maybe adding a secondary control valve. That would be different.

Anyway, next time we’ll either get started on the plumbing or play with fire.

 

[zeeprogrammer]

I think it looks very nice, if I do say so myself.

You're not alone. It's wonderful work. Very impressive. It's the kind of work I dream of being able to do.

 

[Deanofid]

Yes, it does look very nice, indeed! Great build thread, Bob. When it comes to the write up and
pictures, you really know how to do it up in good fashion.
This is coming along well!

Dean

 

[4156df]

Bob,
I have to echo Bob's comments. Great write-up and very nice looking build.
Dennis

 

[xo18thfa]

Thanks guys. It’s getting exciting. Can’t wait to see this baby on the rails.

For Dean: I ordered some watch bearings from the company you recommended. I got some L01 and L56 (I think, the 2d and 3rd smallest bores). They will be the gas jets for the burner. Most likely a bar burner used widely in Gauge 1.

It’s time to get started on the plumbing. Engine plumbing consists of the safety valve, throttle valve, site glass, pressure gauge, pressure gauge syphon, lubricator, steam dry pipe and exhaust. Plumbing is a lot of work. Fortunately, many plumbing parts are commercially available, which cuts down on the work. For this engine, we are going to scratch build all of it. At first, I thought about skipping the pressure gauge, but now I am thinking about adding one. There is an extra bush on top of the boiler we could use. We’ll think about it.

For now, let’s get started with the lubricator. Steam engines, like gasoline engines need oil in the cylinder. Oil is injected in the steam flow and carried onto the cylinder. There are 2 ways to get oil into the steam flow. One is by a slow acting mechanical pump. The other way is with a hydrostatic lubricator. A hydrostatic lubricator is nothing more then an oil tank with the steam pipe going thru the tank. On the top of the steam line is a very small hole. Here is a schematic.

Steam escapes into the oil tank thru the small hole. It condenses back to water and drops into the tank. Water is heavier then oil so it settles to the bottom, and raises the level of the oil. Eventually the oil level raises to the small hole in the steam line. The oil seeps into the steam line, gets atomized by the steam and is carried off to the cylinder. Real steam oil is extremely heavy gear oil, usually 460 weight. The addition of tallow fat helps the oil atomize. Hydrostatic lubricators are absolutely bullet proof. They work every time.

The combination gear and chain drive transmission used on Nina requires that the steam inlet be on the front side of the engine and exhaust on the back. The steam and exhaust pipes cross each other. I did not think about that mess. It made a difficult placement of the lubricator. Normally the lubricator goes inside the cab, sort of out of sight. Our lubricator is going directly on top of the horizontal boiler barrel. It will be different.

Here’s the finished lubricator, ready to go on its stand. There is no drawing for the lubricator. As my old college professors always said, “it is left to the student as an exercise”

The large plug is the fill/clean out. The small plug is directly over the small hole in the top of the steam pipe. In the unlikely event the small hole plugs, we need to get to it to clean it out.

Start on the lubricator by turning the tank from a piece of 1” square brass stock. Bore a flat bottom hole 11/16” deep and as wide as possible without poking thru the sidewalls.

A flat bottom hole can be hard to do with a regular boring bar. Instead use a regular end mill bit instead of a boring bar. The end mill does just fine.

Cut off the tank from the bar stock and face the bottom smooth. Next, tap 0 x 80 holes in each corner on the top and the bottom of the tanks. The tapped holes on the top are for the lid and the holes on the bottom are for mounting on the stand.

You have seen the picture of the tap handle several times. I can’t emphasis enough how important a good tap handle is in the shop. You can’t tap a 0 x 80 hole by hand, no way.

Now make the steam pipe. Cut and face a 1 1/2" length of 1/4" brass rod. Drill clear thru with a #30 drill. Run a die over both ends for a length of about 3/16”. Drill a 1/4" hole in the tank 7/16” from one edge and 3/16” down from the top. We want the steam pipe slightly off set so it clears the fill plug. Silver solder the pipe into the tank.

The top lid is from 1/16” brass plate. Cut a 1 1/8” square piece so it overhangs the tank just a bit. Using a block of hardwood with some #8 sheet metal screws to secure the top lid, drill #51 holes in the corners to match the 0 x 80 holes in the tank. Drill a 3/16” and 5/16” hole for the plug bushings.

It is really handy to have an X-Y table on the drill press or a milling machine. The graduated table knocks these parts out super accurate and so quickly.

Using the top lid as a guide, drill a #60 hole in the steam pipe, top side only.

Turn bushings out of brass for the plugs. The fill plug is 1/4" x 40, just like the boiler bushings. The clean out plug is 4 x 40 or 6 x 32, whatever is handy.

Secure the top lid to the tanks with 0 x 80 screws in the corners. Silver solder the lid to the tank.

Finally, silver solder the bushings into the top lid. Make some plugs with washers and the lubricator is done.

Next time we will get on the lubricator stand and get everything mounted. I don’t know when the next update will happen. I have to report for jury duty on Monday. Federal District Court, must be a biggy. It may last 4 to 6 weeks, they said.

 

[Deanofid]

I must be doing it wrong.. My lubricators all come out round. ; )

Just pulling your leg, Bob! It came out great.

Dean