New cnc Lathe build.

[blighty]

last week started on the shaft. 4 x 12in ish of EN24. my word thats tough stuff.

getting smaller....

starting on the tool holder, also EN24 8in x 2in

time to fire up the grinder....

shaft finished

 

[Herbiev]

Looking very professional.

 

[oldchadders]

this is all well and good, but what the fluff and chuff do i do now??

i know you can get a 10k pot and put it on the board to control the speed of the motor, but any ides where it would go.

also i would like to reverse the motor, but i don't think the controller board will do that. so i dont think i will be going with the treadmill controller board.

been looking up a C6 board from cnc4pc. so that would be the mach to motor interface sorted, but i have know ider what to use for the controller.


:wall::wall::wall::wall::wall:

These motors (AFAIK) are simple dc motors. I bought one (180v dc) intending to use it on a small lathe. From what you say (and most likely in this day and age) the control is digital - analogue is much simpler and easier to fiddle around with - dc volts is dc volts - with digital, trying to interface different bits of kit is more difficult. I found on Ebay what is basically something like a drill control module ( drills etc usually have a "universal motor" which can be speed controlled with a dc supply) although I used to design such things for industrial use it is much more convenient to buy something which is designed and tested. If you can get something like that, which incorporates a speed control potentiometer, the pot will probably have its outer terminals connected to a low dc voltage and ground, rotating the pot varies the voltage on the centre pin which controls the speed. The pot can be removed and a speed control voltage applied to the connection of the centre connection and ground. I eventually gave up on this motor (because of its size and weight) and I am planning to use a 24v dc motor off an electric scooter (bought off Ebay) because it is easier to mess around with lower voltages with less need to isolate various control modules.

 

[blighty]

oldchadders...
thanks for the info. it would of been nice to use the board from the treadmill from where the motor came from, but had a few problems using it. as you say, it was digital and we/forum couldn't work out where the 0-10v would go. Plus as it's intended for a lathe, being able to revers the motor with an M4 code is a must. I ended up buying a KBCC-225R dc controller board that should do the job. I haven't wired the motor up yet to see if it all works. as not got the Pokeys controller yet. will be ordering one this week as i need it to test the ATC when its finished........... anyone got a macro for an ATC??

 

[oldchadders]

just found this......... http://www.axiscontrols.co.uk/shop/kbcc-range/9924

not to sure with this bit......
it says it's 240vac in, thats bits fine and the motor is 11 amps DC and again OK. however the DC output is 180v. the motor i have is rated at 220vdc would this make the motor run slower/less power. or is this another electronics thing that don't work like that.?

Slower and less power by the ratio of 180/220
!80v is roughly the dc output from half wave rectified 240v ac (ie it is only using half of the ac input ctcle, whereas you woyld get app 220v dc if it was full wave rectified (ie the controller is only using one thyristor rather than 2, the latter requiring more complex circuitry (ie more expensive).

 

[oldchadders]

just been having a look on the old intermerweb net again for Reversing DC Motor Speed Controller (yes i did copy paste that) and noticed a bit of a trend.

all the ones i found that i think are up to the job i.e. more than 11amps 3hp plus are all 240vac input and 180vdc output. maybe the motor didn't run on 240vdc when it was in the treadmill.

i might hook it all back up and see what coming out of the controller and how fast the motor is going.

The original probably used full wave rectification, with a pair of thyristors, rather than half wave with one (full wave will give a smoother operation of the motor - in practical terms you would probably not notice the difference. Reversing can be obtained simply by swapping the connections to the motor. How are you physically connecting the motor to the outside world? Pulleys, Gears? You can always adjust the ratio to increase your final output shaft speed to compensate for the lower supply voltage.
Power = 2πNT where N is speed and T is torque

 

[oldchadders]

just found this......... http://www.axiscontrols.co.uk/shop/kbcc-range/9924

not to sure with this bit......
it says it's 240vac in, thats bits fine and the motor is 11 amps DC and again OK. however the DC output is 180v. the motor i have is rated at 220vdc would this make the motor run slower/less power. or is this another electronics thing that don't work like that.?

I've got a 180v treadmill motor which I no longer need which you can have if you want it.

 

[oldchadders]

I've got a 180v treadmill motor which I no longer need which you can have if you want it.

Thinking about it, I probably have a speed controller too.

 

[blighty]

4 posts and only understood 2 of them, guess what ones
not to good with the ins and out of the electronic stuff. my thought was to wire it all up one day and see what happends as to the rpm of the motor. then make gearing decision from there.

drive from the motor will be pulleys, as to what sort don't know yet, but probably single V belt with 2 speed ranges.

thanks for the offer of the motor and ESC. unless you live in the UK might have a problem with posting. plus, it will live in me shed for ever and a day till i think of something to do with it.

 

[oldchadders]

4 posts and only understood 2 of them, guess what ones
not to good with the ins and out of the electronic stuff. my thought was to wire it all up one day and see what happends as to the rpm of the motor. then make gearing decision from there.

drive from the motor will be pulleys, as to what sort don't know yet, but probably single V belt with 2 speed ranges.

thanks for the offer of the motor and ESC. unless you live in the UK might have a problem with posting. plus, it will live in me shed for ever and a day till i think of something to do with it.

I am in the UK, near Buckingham. My thought was the 180v motor would match the output of your controller.

 

[blighty]

The tool change is finally up and running...... ish. its not 100% but is running.

quick vid of it......

 

[blighty]

18 months later finally got round to doing the "how it's done" vid.
I think i did say it was going to be a long build.....

 

[Mark Duquette]

Nice ATC i have made two of this design. The lathe that I am currently working in is a updated Enco compact5. Just a note many modern spindles use ball bearings, two at the chuck end and one at the drive end. The two ball bearings at the chuck end are preloaded and the one at the drive end is not. Having the preloaded bearings close together helps maintain preload at different temperatures (specially if the housing is aluminum).

Good luck with your project

 

[blighty]

already got the bearings for the spindle, have gone for the design you have suggested. two preloaded at the front and one at the back.

just need to get my a** in gear and get on with building it. I'm now thinking about a granite bed and changing the spindle disign to a d1-4 camlock.

 

[Wizard69]

it has been awhile since I dropped in. that spindle machining must have taken forever. Your tool indexer looks to be most interesting as is this whole build. keep up the good work.

 

[blighty]

using EN24 for the spindle was a bit over kill, think EN16 for the tool changer spindle would of been fine.

got me self a bigger lathe, so dont have to borrow other peoples lathes. should come in handy when it come to machining up the main spindle.
wont be making it from EN24