My first lathe tool set

[ksouers]

Kermit,
Check out Craig's List for tools. Look for estate sales listing machine tools. I've managed to make some great finds this way.


Save some money on the depth mic and make yourself a depth gauge. It's just a wire running through a piece of flat material. Harbor Freight has dial indicators on sale every once in a while for about $10. It's close enough accurate for the work we do. You can make a collar for the DI to measure how long the wire sticks out of the flat, viola, depth mic.

Check out some of Marv's posts about tools he's made. Lots of good stuff.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=985.msg6712#msg6712
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=3859.0

There's lots of great info on making tools here, just search around.


Kevin

 

[mklotz]

If you want to get obsessive about accuracy with your home-built depth gage, you can build this...

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=1600.msg11929#msg11929

 

[Kermit]

Thanks Marv, I think the first tool I'll make will be the depth gauge Kevin linked me to.

This place is the greatest waste of time I ever stumbled across, Just Perfect,
Kermit

 

[BillH]

Should buy tooling as you need them. If I was to buy everything I wanted, I'd need a million $$$ Oh wait, make that billions if you throw in the Air Park and collection of WW2 airplanes and a G5...

 

[user 284]

If it were me and with a great deal of hind site I'd buget for some how to books. Google TEE PUBLISHING, LINDSAY PUBLICATIONS is another, South bends "how to run a lathe" And south bends "projects book are both very good, The amatures workshop, My personal favorite, George Tomas's "The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual" is very good, simplified explanations for a lot of some what complex machining. Not just the how but the why you should do it this way. All 3 of guy lautards "the machinist bedside reader books are good, Plus the workshop practice series books pertaining to lathe and mill work. None of these books will answer all of your questions but for what you don't understand, Well that's what boards like this one are for. There are no STUPID questions. If you don't know then you don't know.

After you read, ask enough questions you'll get to the point of what you have between your ears will become the most powerfull tool in your shop. Machining can be a very complex hobby and no one will ever know it all. That's what keeps it interesting, There's always something more and new to learn. Try and explain this to some one that has no interest in machining and most get a glazed look in their eye's. If you have to explain it, then they probably won't get it anyway. Have fun and be SAFE. SAFETY GLASSES ALWAYS. I wish you luck, and you sound like the type of person that's going to love this hobby.

Pete

 

[kennyd]

Kermit,

Are they "Made in USA" brand from MSC? About $160 or so?

 

[Kermit]

Sorry kennyd

I have failed to check this thread in a quite a few days!

If I'm understanding your question, Yes. These are the ones of which you speak! They were on sale in a MSC metal working flyer for something like 66 or 67% off. It was a one page flyer and came with another order.

I came here to add a question about another tool I just got because I don't have any idea what I'll use it for. I didn't have time to give it a good look before getting it. (the price was right).

What I thought was a drill chuck on a 2MT taper mount is something else!! It rotates freely on a bearing just like a live center.. ??? I've had it for about a week now and after a search of books and the like can't find any mention of how or where it might be used, excepting as maybe a work holder of some sort.

 

[steamer]

Sounds like a live tailstock chuck. And item like that is nice for supporting work with no center, or delicate work.

Do you have a picture?. That would help pin down the ID maybe.

Dave

 

[Kermit]

didn't take time to edit or anything. The piece farthest away from the chuck rotates AND fits my 2MT tailstock - So......needle pulling thread....it's a work holder then? Maybe for holding drill bits while REsharpening...?

 

[Kermit]

I found my answer in part right here, today, in another topic.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=4220.msg43998#msg43998

Thanks for your order pull up please,

Kermit

 

[kennyd]

Sorry kennyd

I have failed to check this thread in a quite a few days!

If I'm understanding your question, Yes. These are the ones of which you speak! They were on sale in a MSC metal working flyer for something like 66 or 67% off. It was a one page flyer and came with another order.

Thanks Kermit, any chance you have the part # or MCS #?

 

[Kermit]

The website is down this morning so I had to look it up in the BIG book. They ain't kidding either. That's a big book alright.

Page 727

1/2 shank - MSC# 78641081 (Made in USA) #88510086 (Borite)

I have the Made in USA version.

Kermit

 

[kennyd]

The website is down this morning so I had to look it up in the BIG book. They ain't kidding either. That's a big book alright.

Page 727

1/2 shank - MSC# 78641081 (Made in USA) #88510086 (Borite)

I have the Made in USA version.

Kermit

Thanks so much for taking the time to post that :bow:

 

[Kermit]

I added to my tooling with some HSS turning tools of the Very small and EXTREMELY small variety. I'm sure someone will correct me as to what is and isn't small when it comes to tooling.

The Mag Base posable arm and indicator were sold as a pair but the indicator doesn't fit the hole provided in the arm. The hole is already occupying every bit of available space so no chance of enlarging it. I managed to find a solution using an Exacto blade holder. It's a force fit in the hole but will do the job.

I'm proud of the cutoff tool holder and blade. From Lathemasters and by far the best bargain out there now on parting tooling. I'm guessing I'll have to come up with similiar devices to hold my 1/4 and 1/8 inch HSS tool bits.

Also have a set of 3 machinists squares on the way and picked up some reamers and micrometers a few weeks back. Got a drill press and a small 5x7 band saw this month as well. The shop will be full in no time ;D

Kermit

A prospect for a future engine of the not so small variety.

 

[kvom]

If you want a nice, cheap, convenient depth gauge you could do worse than this one:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INLMKD&PMPXNO=24521746&PMAKA=SM368-7031

Gail put me onto this. Got one last week.

 

[Kermit]

THATS sweet. Thanks kvom. Even at the standard price its a good deal for a 1 inch indicator.

 

[Kermit]

Corrected pic made.


DO NOT USE TOP RAKE ON BRASS CUTTING TOOLS

Thanks to the comments below.

 

[Kermit]

Gonna need something to hold these guys.

is my first idea, but during the time it took to post, I think something with less offset would be even better.

Listening for the echo,
Kermit

 

[mklotz]

I don't use a QCTP but on my homemade tool holders, I use a 1/2" slot and just make up L or U-shaped shims for the <1/2" tools. The "arms" of the L or U are sized to bring the tool directly under the hold-down screws.

Don't know but you might want to consider something along those lines.

 

[steamer]

Hey Kermit,

The tools you have pictured sure do have a lot of top rake.

Usually with a brass tool the rake is 0 or even negative, never positive.

Positive rake on brass usually results in grabbing. Pulling the tool into the work....with the result of ripping the part out of the chuck or breaking the tool or both....sometimes this is rapidly followed by a "costume change".... ;D

A tool with rake more along the lines of the one shown for corner breaking would be better for brass.

Especially if you have a QCTP which does not impart any rake to the tool to begin with.

Your holders will work just fine if your not REALLY hogging stock off...for that make sure your tools are mounted directly in the post and as close to the tool post as possible to maximize rigidity.


Dave