my attempt at Rupnows imperialized ridders flame eater

[werowance]

Brian, I received the wic. I really appreciate that.

thanks

 

[Brian Rupnow]

So--What's happening with this engine. I really hope that you have more success than I did with mine.

 

[werowance]

not much progress, I just got the last of my materials order in yesterday. Hobby metal kits isn't the fastest shipper in the world. but I did receive exactly what I ordered. I hope to start on the crank rod tonight. its raining and I cant do any gardening.

here is the completed alcohol burner and a pic of the pipe I made it from.

the wic worked well, I fueled it yesterday with some heet gas antifreeze treetment

 

[werowance]

Brian, on the connecting rod, where the bearing goes in. did you just go width of the actual bearing? or exactly the width on the plans? on hole, I plan to do light press fit like I did on the bearing support but wasn't sure on width

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I cheated a bit and made the con rod from two pieces silver soldered together. The bearing I got was wider than I had expected, so I made a round piece of brass the same thickness as the length of the bearing and the same outside diameter as the plan calls for. The rest of the con-rod was thinner as per the drawing. Either way will work fine. I don't like press fits on small stuff. I just bored the hole for a push fit of the bearing and used some 638 Loctite to hold the bearing in place.

 

[werowance]

Morning, I didn't get much done last night. marked out my rod is about it.
I also plan to 2 piece my rod.

I plan to use a piece of scrap ali plate, take a copper or other scrap metal strap across the rod to hold it down kind of like the 2nd picture. then drill both holes through and into the plate, I will like use an end mill and plunge cut the large bearing hole so as to leave a nice flat bottom hole in the plate. I will cut the brass bearing part to fit said hole. I will then remove the rod, cut it out and then put it back on the plate with a pin in the small hole and the brass in the other end and then put the strap back on to hold it down while silver brazing it together. at least that's my plan.

on a side note, I really would like to own a decent protractor, anyone have any recommendations?

 

[werowance]

not much accomplished last night. drilled and tapped the ali plate and copper clamp strap to 1/4 x 20 - the most common thread I seem to use and then wouldn't you know it, I couldn't find a single 1/4 x 20 bolt or screw anywhere. then I realized, yep that's the most common fastener I use so I had used all of them. after about an hour searching everywhere and threw all my bins I gave up and went in the house and got my wifes bits and bobs jar out of the utility drawer and fortunately I found 1 screw and 1 bold that was the right size.

I used some red lock tight and then strapped it down and clamped it. probably doesn't need the lock tight but would hate for it to move while drilling it. once drilled I ll have dowel holes to line it back up

ill remove all the extra clamps before drilling, leaving just the copper strap to hold it down. they are just there to keep things nice n tight wile the locktight cures.

anyway ill be dropping by the bolts and screw place down the road from my day job at lunch and stocking back up on fasteners.

hope to have a rod and other parts made over the weekend

 

[werowance]

no much progress this weekend. just got a rod finished is all

 

[werowance]

ok, reading the new forum instructions but really cant find how to post a picture properly. any help?

 

[werowance]

ok, think I have the picture thing figured out

 

[werowance]

well, not very much progress this week. lots of working late and then catching up on home chores to.

I managed to get the crank pin made that the rod rides on. managed to break a #50 drill in it first, lucily there was enough of the drill sticking out that I got it out, then the 2-56 tap broke off in it, and again luck was on my side and managed to get it out without mangeling everything. I really hope to get some funtime in the shop this weekend

 

[werowance]

got a start on the valve push rod assembly and on the last piece - the adjuster, I destroyed silver brazing it. oh well wasn't a lot of material, just a lot of time lost. I'm going to get my oxy accetaline refilled and use my jewelers tip next go round instead of my large propane burner.

on another note. the ball bearing for the rod, I pulled the dust shield out and found that the ring that holds the ball bearings in place is plastic. do you think I should source another bearing?

 

[Brian Rupnow]

No, you should be okay. That bearing is a long way from the heat source.--Brian

 

[werowance]

got my oxy acetaline tanks swaped out, makes a big difference trying to silver solder so this completes the push rod assembly. well I might shorten that 2-56 screw just a tad, and I left the rod I think .300 longer than plans just incase. but I think I can pretty much call that complete for now. only 1 more little bitty tiny part to make, the clevis that the piston rod joins to the piston with. after that ill start the piston/valve and finish the lap on the cylinder.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Got my fingers crossed for you---Brian

 

[werowance]

brian, how did you join your rod to the clevis on your engine? just a piece of wire or something bent over? or did you do some sort of peening on the ends or other fancy ways of securing it in place?

 

[Brian Rupnow]

If you are talking about the end farthest from the flywheel, I silver soldered the clevis and hub to the end of the 1/8" rod.

 

[werowance]

no I'm talking about where the crank rod connects to the piston.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I used a piece of 1/16" diameter cold rolled steel x 0.550" long. The piston skirt keeps it from moving to either side and scoring the cylinder wall. If you can't find 1/16" diameter cold rolled steel you can buy 1/16" diameter steel welding rod.

 

[mcdavidr]

One of these was my first big project on my new lathe and mill. It was a challenge but it turned out pretty well.