my attempt at Rupnows imperialized ridders flame eater

[werowance]

now on the subject of laping compound. here is a picture of what I have in stock. how do you compare the microns to "grit" ? is there a chart or something I can cross it over to?

 

[werowance]

just found this chart. looks like the 28 micron is very close to the 600 grit mark. would that be correct?

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Yes. it is close. I can't remember what diamond grit I used because I only used it once.

 

[el gringo]

A quote I remember Bob Shores using, [ be careful using diamond grit, "diamonds are forever"]

Ray M

 

[werowance]

not much progress this weekend. wind blew down my tv as well as internet communications pole. spent Saturday night putting in a new post and then almost all day Sunday trying to realign my dish to no avail. I did get internet back up but not tv... oh well the Dish man will be here Tuesday to fix that. anyway I did manage to hog down the flat for the intake area of the cylinder. in the pic you will notice I put a verticle flat on the washer as well. when I originally made the washer I realized it didn't have anywhere for my edge finder to hit so I could locate the edge of the cylinder length wise so I cut an edge off that washer for that. and as I mill down I am also milling down the top of the washer. hogged it down till about .010 left to slow cut on. hope to get that tonight. or hey, looks like ill be off work Tuesday all day waiting on the satellite dish person to show up...

 

[werowance]

got the intake slot milled out and the flats for the legs milled. only have a picture of the flats.

now, on the hole for the pushrod that must be drilled the length of the cylinder. I am seeing different ideas out there. like drilling from each end and putting in a bushing on each side which is something I don't want to do because ill never hit from both sides straight. so I'm wondering what type of drill bit could I order to make this drill nice and straight and that long? just looking for recommendations on this one. my drill is only long enough to reach half way (and I'm sure theres a "that's what she said" joke in there)

 

[werowance]

had a little more time to think about this, if I did have to drill half way then flip around, my concern is locating the drill on the opposite end and how I would ever measure it. id like to drill it the full way if that's the recommended way but if flipping it turns out to be recommended, then what about a setup like this:
drill the first half while in the rotary table and square to the other cuts and where it really needs to be. then switch to a milling vice, insert a scrap of 1/2 aluminum plate. drill and tap a hole to run a clamping bolt through to hold the cylinder in place. I will run the bolt through the cylinder and have plenty of side to side room to adjust.
then move the table over to where the push rod hole should go and drill the correct size hole and insert an alignment pin in.

put the cylinder with the half length hole drilled on that pin and run the clamp bolt through the center of the cylinder to tighten it down. this way the pilot pin hole never gets moved and the mill head never gets moved after drilling it. thus the other end of the cylinder should be properly aligned and can be drill from the other side and meet somewhere in the middle. ? is that how you would do it if you had to drill both ends?

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Check the length of your 1/8" drill. Mine is 2.580" long, and that's long enough to go all the way thru the cylinder in one set-up. That hole is fairly critical. Buy a longer drill if you have to.---Brian

 

[werowance]

ok, bought a new silver and deming drill for the push rod hole. it barely was long enough. only had about a 1/4 inch in the chuck by the time I hit bottom. I would drill a little and then extend the bit in the chuck. holding my breath a lot but it made it through without walking on me.

also got the holes drilled and tapped for the feet. hopefully this weekend I can finish honing and then laping it. the shcs sticking out of the feet holes were just where I was checking the threads and how deep they would actually go is all.

then materials search again. hoping I have some brass or can locate some cast iron in one of the barns at my moms farm for the piston and valve. I know there is plenty of old window weight sashes but I have learned my lesson on those. they are hard as a rock. carbide doesn't even like to cut them.

 

[werowance]

would this graphite be suitable for the piston and valve?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Sti...723524?hash=item28517b3f84:g:VkAAAOSwUg9aiVKI

Carbon rod or Graphite stick is high purity heat resistant tool which made from high density fine grain graphite. It is used for stirring & mixing the molten metal in order to get a proper mix of alloys in Gold, Silver, and Brass. It also used when large amount of molten (Gold, Silver) metal melt in larger crucible with torch, in Gas or electric melting furnace.
Feature

• Graphite helps to remove impurities and skin metal surface
• It is made from high density fine grain graphite
• It can be used with molten metal of gold, silver, brass
• Weight: 11.64 Oz (1&#8221

Note: Not to be used for platinum metal, graphite will contaminate with platinum.
Availability

SKU​

Size​

JMT-49​

5/16” THICK x 12” LONG (8 mm x 305 mm)

JMT-50​

3/8” THICK x 12” LONG (9.5 mm x 305 mm)

JMT-51​

5/8” THICK x 12” LONG (15.8 mm x 305 mm)

JMT-52​

½” THICK x 12” LONG (12 mm x 305 mm)

JMT-53​

1” THICK x 12” LONG (25 mm x 305 mm)

Find our more products at simondstore: http://stores.ebay.com/simondstore
If you have any query related to product, request you to message us on ebay.com, it will be our privilege to provide you solution at the earliest & serve you better.
We kindly request you to give us the 100% positive feedback as you will be completely satisfied with the product.
Image displayed is for illustrative purpose only. Actual product may vary the displayed image but features and specification would be same or higher as defined above.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Werowance--the only time I ever got this engine to run was with a cast iron piston, and only when I squirted the piston with WD40. I spent $100 on a 12" length of graphite and made a new piston and valve, and then I couldn't get it to run at all. I think you are better off sticking with a cast iron piston.---Brian

 

[werowance]

ok, more materials on order - CI for the piston and valve (thanks Brian), brass for the rod, etc.

this is where I got to this weekend with it, almost finished lapping it, decided to clean it up and assemble it before bed time last night.

 

[werowance]

while I'm ordering supplies, I think ill shop for the wick. I found 1/4 round cotton wick on ebay. Brian, is that what I should use given the size of the wick holder? or should it be larger so as to be tight in the holder?

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Email me your address and I'll send you down a piece. I have enough 1/4" wick now to last the rest of my life.---Brian

 

[werowance]

wow, that's very kind of you. I will pm it to you asap.

I can paypal u for it
thanks

 

[Sleddog]

Damn Werowamce that’s very nice looking. Looking forward to seeing it run.

 

[Cogsy]

That carbon rod is exactly the stuff I bought for mine when I built it. Machines very nicely, even takes a thread, but it makes a huge mess unless you're careful. The thing graphite has going for it, apart from the self lubrication, is its mass, which is far less than cast iron. So in theory your engine should run better with less rotating mass to drive. I think Brian would have got his going with the graphite piston and valve but didn't realise just how finicky these things are when getting them to run. It's easy to be fooled into thinking a part is wrong when it just refuses to run and as an unknown, the graphite is easy to 'blame'. It's cheap enough to grab a stick and have a go, and the CI you've already ordered will certainly come in handy for something else

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Werowance--I mailed your 1/4" wick out this morning--03-May-2018.---Brian

 

[werowance]

Thank you Brian, I really appreciate it.

 

[werowance]

while I am waiting on my materials orders to come in I switched gears and did a lot of sheet metal work. - I also made the piece that pulls the valve in and out - its a piece of stainless steel.

now on the sheet metal work, for the burner I was thinking that this engine needed lubrication - virtual lubrication that is. how to get this I wonder.... well why not incorporate some brass stripper pole. that should make the engine run better right? . but seriously I have this brass pipe for things like bar rail, crowd control poles etc. but I'm calling it stripper pole. i don't want to mill the base out for the recess if i can at all help it so i am making the burner tank shorter to compensate for that. i cut a piece of the pole and then split it. heated it and then got it semi flat by hand. heated again and then off to the 20 ton press with it. now its really flat. squared it up and then started breaking the corners over. once done i silver soldered the seams (yes 2 seams because i bent one corner to long and had a trapezoid shape so i had to cut it to shrink it.) now with a square i take a piece of scrap copper place that was .125 thick and heat and beat on the anvil till almost the right thickness. heat and put in the press and that almost removed all the hammer marks. next the belt sander. now i have 2 pieces of copper plate the right thickness and all cleaned up. i hard plumbers solder in the bottom and will do the same with the top when finished. for the wick tube i will silver solder that in. my thought is that if i have to mill the recess out on the base place then i will have to remake the sides. plumbers solder is a lot easier to undo so i wont waste the top and bottom.

for anti skid or to keep the burner from moveing around when running i will use a piece of self adhesive cell phone matt. like those little stick ons for your car dash. i used one on my steam engine boiler burner and it works great. - Moms idea on that one.

here are pics