Model engine CDI easy and cheap

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Bluejets your right, one can place a magnet on the opposite side of a cut out metal wheel but, this is called a windowed design. This was quite popular years ago in the automotive world. I have seen this setup in GM's to Mitsubishi's and is of course a alternative to detecting the metal wheel. For others the windowed wheel interrupts the magnetic field the Hall-Effect sees.

Ray
 
Video for those who seem to think it does not work for one reason or another.
Pickup is attached to a motor driving a metal disc with 3 vanes. Magnet (3mm dia) is on opposite side of the vanes.
I have tried with a magnet attached to the rear side of the hall effect and it also works fine in detecting the vanes. Same thing, different tune as they say.
Tacho reading shown is per pulse and tacho tops out at 9,900rpm or pulses in this instance.
After that it starts to show alpha characters.
Initial pulses as can be seen in the video are at around 9,500 mark and later in the video the test bench motor is run up to maximum at over 20,000 pulses.
Previous remote tacho readings have confirmed this.
As can be seen, the Ebay unit works just fine.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5r4hDb6SNXBTpCeBA


Hi Bluejets, I installed CDI ignition for my Howell engine, everything works fine, I used the original trigger hidden under the flywheel, you can see the post 65 in work in progress section, Howel V4 from Italy
 
Hi...Voltage to the loop from the CDI is ordinarily 100 volts PEAK - you can't gauge the voltage to the curl with a standard multimeter except if you have a pinnacle voltage connector - utilize a FLUKE multimeter using the min/max capacity to quantify the pinnacle voltage from the beat loop and from the CDI unit to the curl.

Since the start is AC energized (no battery required) - a frail sparkle discloses to you the beat generator curl is advising the CDI unit to fire the loop - as a rule, having a feeble, yet predictable flash standards out the beat curl, so the guilty party is either a terrible ground, the CDI unit or the stator. A no sparkle issue is simpler to pinpoint.
 
Video for those who seem to think it does not work for one reason or another.
Pickup is attached to a motor driving a metal disc with 3 vanes. Magnet (3mm dia) is on opposite side of the vanes.
I have tried with a magnet attached to the rear side of the hall effect and it also works fine in detecting the vanes. Same thing, different tune as they say.
Tacho reading shown is per pulse and tacho tops out at 9,900rpm or pulses in this instance.
After that it starts to show alpha characters.
Initial pulses as can be seen in the video are at around 9,500 mark and later in the video the test bench motor is run up to maximum at over 20,000 pulses.
Previous remote tacho readings have confirmed this.
As can be seen, the Ebay unit works just fine.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5r4hDb6SNXBTpCeBA

Hi Bluejets

Sad to say your Video Link doesn`t work. It points to Nirwana......

Stefan
 
Hi Bluejets

Sad to say your Video Link doesn`t work. It points to Nirwana......

Stefan

Things like that tend to happen over a long period of time.
If you look that was originally posted over 16 months ago......
I have no control over what disappears from posts that far back.
I'll try to hunt down the video in my records.
Cheers Jorgo.
 
Things like that tend to happen over a long period of time.
If you look that was originally posted over 16 months ago......
I have no control over what disappears from posts that far back.
I'll try to hunt down the video in my records.
Cheers Jorgo.
Hi Jorgo
No Problem. I'd appreciate if you would find it in your own Videos. Maybe its a good idea to post it on YouTube. Once uploaded it stays there forever. I'd like to see the Video because i just ordered two of These CDI modules. I expect them to arrive from China in mid Januar. I have always made my own CDI modules from scratch and i tried to make them as small as possible. Smallest one i ever made Was 62x55x35mm. But you know that physics of high voltage Limit the size. However, China modules are a nice idea and i want to try them out.
Cheers for now
Stefan
 
Tend to do the youtube way that these days as it's just too difficult keeping track of where everything is, especially when there was a "new pc" in there somewhere as well.:confused:

Had a look through most on this current system yesterday but found no reference to the video.
Have a couple of other places to look though.

Edit:- Looks like it might have been on the phone that was dunked a few weeks ago. ☹☹
Will make another when I get the opportunity...cheers Jorgo
 
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Hi Jorgo
No Problem. I'd appreciate if you would find it in your own Videos. Maybe its a good idea to post it on YouTube. Once uploaded it stays there forever. I'd like to see the Video because i just ordered two of These CDI modules. I expect them to arrive from China in mid Januar. I have always made my own CDI modules from scratch and i tried to make them as small as possible. Smallest one i ever made Was 62x55x35mm. But you know that physics of high voltage Limit the size. However, China modules are a nice idea and i want to try them out.
Cheers for now
Stefan

Had a bit of spare time this afternoon so recharged the teset bed battery and gave the hall effect unit a run.
Popped it into youtube this time so there ya go as they say.
Cheers Jorgo



Didn't realise at the time I had the wall fan running and it gave the video a "windy day" effect.
Sorry about that, I'll remember that next time.
Flamin' hot here at the moment.
 
Good idea for a test set up
Thanks for showing
Mike
 
[QUOTE = "bluejets, post: 351300, membro: 18673"]
Ho avuto un po 'di tempo libero questo pomeriggio, quindi ho ricaricato la batteria del letto teset e ho dato una corsa all'unità effetto hall.
Questa volta l'ho inserito su YouTube quindi eccoti come si suol dire.
Saluti Jorgo

[MEDIA = youtube] a0dSqJ63yPE [/ MEDIA]

All'epoca non mi ero reso conto che avevo il ventilatore a muro acceso e ha dato al video un effetto "giornata ventosa".
Mi dispiace, me lo ricorderò la prossima volta.
Flamin 'caldo qui al momento.
[/CITAZIONE]
Ciao, mi sai dire dove hai comprato la cdi ? Hai un link internet?
 
[QUOTE = "bluejets, post: 351300, membro: 18673"]
Ho avuto un po 'di tempo libero questo pomeriggio, quindi ho ricaricato la batteria del letto teset e ho dato una corsa all'unità effetto hall.
Questa volta l'ho inserito su YouTube quindi eccoti come si suol dire.
Saluti Jorgo

[MEDIA = youtube] a0dSqJ63yPE [/ MEDIA]

All'epoca non mi ero reso conto che avevo il ventilatore a muro acceso e ha dato al video un effetto "giornata ventosa".
Mi dispiace, me lo ricorderò la prossima volta.
Flamin 'caldo qui al momento.
[/CITAZIONE]
Ciao, mi sai dire dove hai comprato la cdi ? Hai un link internet?

Con il virus in giro, probabilmente non esiste più. Facile fare una ricerca su Ebay per scooter CDI a 4 pin 12V


esempio qui ma il costo sarebbe più alto di quelli che ho comprato
Motocycle Scooter 4 Pin DC 12V CDI Box Igniter Ignition Black for CD110 | eBay

la bobina è una GY6 e l'effetto hall è il modulo KY-003 .... tutto su Ebay

se vuoi rendere lo stile della bobina pick-up, i dettagli sono più indietro nel post.
 
Hi Bluejets, a fellow Aussie here! I'm impressed with you working out how to use a Hall sensor on a 12 volt CDI. And I see from your youtube clip you 100% have it working like a charm.
I would like to use this ignition on a 7 cylinder model radial I built. (Hall sensor in the dist cap with small seven rotating magnets, it works.)
I have the same eBay 12 volt, 4 pin CDI. I made both your Hall sensor circuit and then the points circuit. But I cant get the system to work on either.
But the CDI works just fine when using just the pick up coil as a trigger from out of an old electronic distributor. see two you tube clips I made here.
and

Ive attached some pics here too, perhaps you can pick up a howler mistake! Any tips you have would be appreciated. If you're not too far for me I could even post you my handy work for quick test on your rig :)

Is there any way to test the circuit? Output.
When I tap the points to ground the LED flickers. Likewise when I hook up the Hall sensor to the points circuit (with 12v power to the Hall). Pass a magnet and the LED flickers.

Also I notice with the Blue jets points module connected when I tap the main power It throws a BIG spark with every tap of the 12V+ battery terminal. But with the same module disconnected, then tapping the power does nothing. Its like the module is down?

Cheers Paul
 

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If any one is interested, I made a third attempt at this circuit literally placing the components on the Bluejets schematic. Still no spark. I'm pretty confident I have the circuit correct. So leads me to suspect either the circuit has an error or not all 12V DC 4 pins CDI are the same.
Any help would be appreciated. See below my third attempt.
 

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I am also very interested, this circuit would be very useful.
I built 2 but both don't work with a 4 pin CDI , no spark, with the original pick up everything works.
Same opinion as paulc ,the circuit has an error or not all 12V DC 4 pins CDI are the same.

IMG_2061.JPG
 
I am also very interested, this circuit would be very useful.
I built 2 but both don't work with a 4 pin CDI , no spark, with the original pick up everything works.
Same opinion as paulc ,the circuit has an error or not all 12V DC 4 pins CDI are the same.

View attachment 128095
Hmmm yes I recall your attempts.
As with yours, mine also works fine on the original pick up coil as the trigger. So all that has to occur is the square wave from the hall sensor be converted to to emulate the sine wave, my suspicion is the bluejets circuit is perhaps marginal on this square to sign wave conversion and so with minor differences in CDI modules causes it he CDI to not function. I wonder if more filtration to create a better sign wave would fix the issue? Im looking at this now.
Or
As no one other than bluejets has this working so this could indicate that there is an issue with the circuit he published.

A new video on my attempts here:


I will get this working. :)
 
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Hi, I've noticed that you are using the Arduino hall effect sensor module. That module outputs a +5V signal when a magnet is detected and so will not work with that circuit because it has a PNP transistor which requires a negative signal to the base for it to conduct.
 
Hi, I've noticed that you are using the Arduino hall effect sensor module. That module outputs a +5V signal when a magnet is detected and so will not work with that circuit because it has a PNP transistor which requires a negative signal to the base for it to conduct.

The KY-003 Hall Magnetic Sensor consists of a 3144EUA-S sensitive Hall-effect switch for high-temperature operation, a 680Ω resistor and a LED. Compatible with popular electronics platforms like Arduino and Raspberry Pi.

Operating Voltage4.5V to 24V
Operating Temperature Range-40°C to 85°C [-x°F to x°F]
Dimensions 18.5mm x 15mm [0.728in x 0.591in]
 
Im using a Hall sensor we already use on other kettering ignition circuits, and I believe switches the same as the KY-003 only in does not have the LED on board. Should still work.

Here is a close up of the two inverters I made. And also one of me building the circuit on the actual schematic provided in this thread. I cant get either to work. Perhaps Im repeating a silly mistake but I cant see it.

The Hall PCB is the smaller one, the points inverter board the longer one. The black and white wires are the points connections

Help please I really want this CDI work. I reckon its a winner. The radial engine I made a few years back is attached here. This is what I want to use this ignition on. Get her running again. Did I say a few years back.... 1997 oh my what happened?
Cheers Paul
 

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The A3144EUA-S Hall-Effect has a open collector like almost all Hall-Effects which, means that when it turns on the sensor output goes to ground (-). So 1. I would put a 10k ohm resistor between the (+) and the sensor output, 2. I would get rid of the capacitor. If it still doesn't work then 3, I would get rid of the 1K5 resistor.

Ray
 

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