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I’ve had some real issues posting so I’m switching devices in hopes that things can be easier for me.
so I got ammonia and did a test to compare with plain war. The second test sheet of balsa is now drying. It will most likely be ready lat today. Already it was much easier to ven just get started bending.I use dot water adding Amina. About 5050 mix. Very strong. But it wrapped pretty easily. Looking at how the edges of the sheet fit e tube when dry. Ultimately I don’t think this Elle an issue.the hardest part onfar is just getting set up as in didn’t have enough heavy rubber bands. I was going to just pull duct tape. Around it but the wet just messed it up miserably. Once I get all the material at least pre shaped I think. I can make a vial nice smooth transition. . Remains to be seen however. I’m. Curious just how hot the bals will et so I’ll be documenting that on start up. I expect a gap at the top it I have a thick strip icanuse as filler if needed. D lik to keep as few endings or fitting off the top. There will probably be a fill port and an exit port. It to go to distribution block wihvaious outlets as needed. I did see some oe had warden the tubes and fittings. I remember seeing. This in the kid boiler room at the dairy. so some ideas might beelpfull. . I remember a project where else coping o different diameter tubes were bent together. It was a messy project. I remember. I do have bonding tools available so may try it. Some industrial units have the pipes enclosed in an insulated box. . Not very excited about that. Sketches and drawings. Well I managed to spill water all over what I. And twice. Fortunately my son has my original sketch and is cutting Thea in tube and he understands how I planned the end Capps and bulkheads for the water tubes. O it’s in process. I’m hoping to give him the engine castings for painting shortly. Then Ican start engine assembly. Th are two complete engines joined in the middl. I did heck the crankshafts last night. They are joined by a longer flywheel hub. I don’t really like this but I didn’t design it and I have to ghinkts been around for a while so proven. There are nice fox coplings available too. Also found I gear couplings like eebuse on yhe race cars. So coupling is not a big deal.. one ngine has the outer shaf hanging in the breeze, so I have a self alighting ball bearing planned mounted in a support. This will give a solid support for drive belts. There are. Plenty of main bearing supports on the castings. Basic test shows these to e. Very well done as both cranks run true. And the joining flywheel slides in perfectly. Providing a quite rigid connection.


I don’t have a good way to Maureen output torque yet. I think it can be calculated based on output from te dynamo or generators I need to get some tech. Myself here. May have to gage a small scale and rig up a mini Dyno.
I did get a prurient relief valve so as soo ss I can get out o the sho. I’ll test it and git info on heat the springs can do and see if I make some adjustment with shimsts exactly like our fuel injection relief valves and even has a atching thread . There will be a blow down line and valve..

the two turbine will be separate from the engines.
 
I really sorry. This spell check just won’t leave me alone.
im going tontybagai.

the dimensions are. 1” long 4”:eek:d tube 6061 t6;aluminum 3/6” wall thickness. End caps 6061-t 6 aluminum. 1/2” basic thickness . They will have a dome shape repained by 8 832 button head hex drve stainless steel screws..10 1/2” of water. tubes. 1/4” bulkhead mounts internally. Two 1100 watt electric heaters. Boiler to rest on supports so
one end is about 1 /2” higher. This canchange as needed. 1/2” balsa insulation. Oiler tube to. Be polished. Thin polished stainless steel outer wrap. Decoration. Minimum fittings on top. water llevel gage on one end.. blow own valve on high end. exit steam into hex distribution block. 1/8” NPT fittings a much as possible. Engine has 1 /4” 40 tpi ME fittings. tap and die ordered. Pressure gage and siphon tube. Gear fill pump. Teflon rings with ptfe softer option.

there is a 3/8” tie rod between end caps with1/4-20 Socket head cap screw in each end cap.this is to prevent end cap blow out. Even with a different device it’s being painful. If I missed something please just ask and I’ll y and respond better.
 
Thanks or the heads up o the pressure relief valve position. I can easily tap a fitting hole for it on top of the boiler so that here it will go. I’ve already blown $50 on a tiny 1/4” 40 tpi ME tap and die so another $50 for one mor size wot hurt too much between al 4 pieces they will b only slightly heavier than the pen that I filled out t the order form. LOL. SAD. humor parts hould be going out for painting today. I gave my son some ideas for a drill and tap guide o e said he would make up something. Lack of mobility is o frurating. . I still need to consider some valves. Gllobevalves seem traditional. I have found some Teflon ball valves that might work. . The next thing that just came up is the. steam exhaust. . I found there are condensers. In fact cilternrn makes one. I had thought that maybe one of the turbines could act as a centrifugal device to separate oil water and air . This so thoughts would be welcome. I can see some kind of reservoir. I have an extra airline filter I could also use. Industrial ones are very complicated. I think they are called economiseers . I’m not sure how they work either. I don’t have one on my hot water heater at home.
I still have not found much in small diameter gages. Automotive stuff I usually 2 1/16” . They can take up huge amount of room that I’d really rathernot do.the cost of them is out of sight. There are cheap ones too but ugly and lacking durability. His little reissue really not very big and I like not to have to double the footprint just for gages.

byron
 
Thanks or the heads up o the pressure relief valve position. I can easily tap a fitting hole for it on top of the boiler so that here it will go. I’ve already blown $50 on a tiny 1/4” 40 tpi ME tap and die so another $50 for one mor size wot hurt too much between al 4 pieces they will b only slightly heavier than the pen that I filled out t the order form. LOL. SAD. humor parts hould be going out for painting today. I gave my son some ideas for a drill and tap guide o e said he would make up something. Lack of mobility is o frurating. . I still need to consider some valves. Gllobevalves seem traditional. I have found some Teflon ball valves that might work. . The next thing that just came up is the. steam exhaust. . I found there are condensers. In fact cilternrn makes one. I had thought that maybe one of the turbines could act as a centrifugal device to separate oil water and air . This so thoughts would be welcome. I can see some kind of reservoir. I have an extra airline filter I could also use. Industrial ones are very complicated. I think they are called economiseers . I’m not sure how they work either. I don’t have one on my hot water heater at home.
I still have not found much in small diameter gages. Automotive stuff I usually 2 1/16” . They can take up huge amount of room that I’d really rathernot do.the cost of them is out of sight. There are cheap ones too but ugly and lacking durability. His little reissue really not very big and I like not to have to double the footprint just for gages.

byron

Byron,

Don't know where you have been doing your shopping, but eBay has numerous listings for HSS 1/4-40 tap & die sets for less than $20 delivered; yes, mostly Chinese manufacture and many shipped from China, but several located within the U.S. No 1/16"-27 pipe tap & die sets in the U.S., but many taps and dies sold separately, with a total cost of around $20. Amazon also has taps & dies in this cost range, with free shipping for Prime.

In my experience, Chinese and Indian tooling is good quality, and the average delivery time has been about 2 weeks (it's taken USPS that long to get a 1st class package rate small envelope from Long Island to Hershey).


Good luck with your boiler, and keep posting,


Charlie
 
Like he said quality is pretty decent just run them slow and make sure they are highspeed steel
 
Thanks or the heads up o the pressure relief valve position. I can easily tap a fitting hole for it on top of the boiler so that here it will go. I’ve already blown $50 on a tiny 1/4” 40 tpi ME tap and die so another $50 for one mor size wot hurt too much between al 4 pieces they will b only slightly heavier than the pen that I filled out t the order form. LOL. SAD. humor parts hould be going out for painting today. I gave my son some ideas for a drill and tap guide o e said he would make up something. Lack of mobility is o frurating. . I still need to consider some valves. Gllobevalves seem traditional. I have found some Teflon ball valves that might work. . The next thing that just came up is the. steam exhaust. . I found there are condensers. In fact cilternrn makes one. I had thought that maybe one of the turbines could act as a centrifugal device to separate oil water and air . This so thoughts would be welcome. I can see some kind of reservoir. I have an extra airline filter I could also use. Industrial ones are very complicated. I think they are called economiseers . I’m not sure how they work either. I don’t have one on my hot water heater at home.
I still have not found much in small diameter gages. Automotive stuff I usually 2 1/16” . They can take up huge amount of room that I’d really rathernot do.the cost of them is out of sight. There are cheap ones too but ugly and lacking durability. His little reissue really not very big and I like not to have to double the footprint just for gages.

byron
Hi Byron. Please don't just drill and tap the cylinder for the SAFELY VALVE. IT NEEDS BUSHING. The hoop stress calculations, consideration of the stress concentration factor for penetrations, etc. are all for Safety. So please get it right or don't do it at all.
Take care,
K2
 

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