Mirror Finish Fly Cutter
- Thread starter celsoari
- Start date
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BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
Hi Guys,
I posted pictures of mine ten years ago !
I posted pictures of mine ten years ago !
Nice built.
I was able to turn on english captions, and so that worked out.
Makes an impressive finish.
I need to build one of these.
.
I was able to turn on english captions, and so that worked out.
Makes an impressive finish.
I need to build one of these.
.
BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
Hi GreenTwin,
Here are pictures of mine. I have drawings kicking about somewhere as well !
No milling ! Just thee holes. One for a 20 mm shaft, one for a 6 mm square tool bit and a M6 threaded hole for a grub screw.
The disc is made from the off cut of a 100 mm steel bar, 20 mm thick with a pressed in steel shaft.
The surface finish is what ever you want depending upon surface speed and material being machined.
Here are pictures of mine. I have drawings kicking about somewhere as well !
No milling ! Just thee holes. One for a 20 mm shaft, one for a 6 mm square tool bit and a M6 threaded hole for a grub screw.
The disc is made from the off cut of a 100 mm steel bar, 20 mm thick with a pressed in steel shaft.
The surface finish is what ever you want depending upon surface speed and material being machined.
I might make one too....I guess it would cut ok, being a full circumference tool head, balanced, and wouldn't bounce on impact of intermittent cutting....
Celsoari, Baron,
Excellent! A good stiff holder for the tool.
I think the correct tooling, workpiece material, speed and feed all play a part as well. But this shows you know what you are doing. What shaft speed, depth of cut, feed-rate and workpiece material were you showing? A close-up of the tool shape would help too? Excellent stuff!
One industrial job, in a workshop I managed, was making electrical joint faces (For LARGE busbars) using a similar tooling to face aluminium bars 6 inches wide in a single pass. The machine was a woodworking tool running 6000rpm! A 1mm cut cleaned-up the raw surface in a single pass and using a sharp pointed tool gave the surface finish - not mirror-like - of grooves and peaks so when the joint was bolted-up the intersecting aluminium peaks deformed each other to make a very low resistance (metal to metal) good joint.
The swarf flew from that machine!
That job had a fly-cutter holder very similar to yours.
I am sure a radiused tool would have given a mirror finish on that machine too.
Thanks,
K2
Excellent! A good stiff holder for the tool.
I think the correct tooling, workpiece material, speed and feed all play a part as well. But this shows you know what you are doing. What shaft speed, depth of cut, feed-rate and workpiece material were you showing? A close-up of the tool shape would help too? Excellent stuff!
One industrial job, in a workshop I managed, was making electrical joint faces (For LARGE busbars) using a similar tooling to face aluminium bars 6 inches wide in a single pass. The machine was a woodworking tool running 6000rpm! A 1mm cut cleaned-up the raw surface in a single pass and using a sharp pointed tool gave the surface finish - not mirror-like - of grooves and peaks so when the joint was bolted-up the intersecting aluminium peaks deformed each other to make a very low resistance (metal to metal) good joint.
The swarf flew from that machine!
That job had a fly-cutter holder very similar to yours.
I am sure a radiused tool would have given a mirror finish on that machine too.
Thanks,
K2
BaronJ
Grumpy Old Git.
Hi Ken,
I've been using this style fly cutter for a lot of years now ! I know that a lot of people have built one. I know of one that has two cutters in it 180 degrees apart but on slightly different radii.
I've, depending upon material used a 1 mm DOC without any problems. I've even used it to surface hardwood, using the drill press. The centrifugal effect of the heavy disc does make a difference to the surface finish compared to the conventional swinging arm type cutter.
Interesting your comment on low surface resistance joints. I did find that worn carbide tool bits tended to produce a burnished finish rather than a cut one on some steels. The tool shape also makes a large difference to the surface finish. I started by using the rounded shape that you see in the picture, but found that a shape more like a lathe tool was more effective.
THANKS Baron.
I agree with cutting using a lathe tool, as while used on lathes against a curve of the cylinder, the same cutting angles are a relationship between the tool and workpiece material, not any perticular machine. And for model work, on "smaller less-stiff machines than needed for industry, smaller cuts with a sharp tool are easier than heavier cuts where "less sharp" carbide inserts are intended.
K2
I agree with cutting using a lathe tool, as while used on lathes against a curve of the cylinder, the same cutting angles are a relationship between the tool and workpiece material, not any perticular machine. And for model work, on "smaller less-stiff machines than needed for industry, smaller cuts with a sharp tool are easier than heavier cuts where "less sharp" carbide inserts are intended.
K2
