Mery 6-stroke kit.

[Jack3M]

Sort of going in a different direction. Learning how to thread, this I hope will lead to making my own (bottoming too) tap. Therefore at this time, not anything going on, just learning new skill that I need to complete this without wasting a bunch of $$ on tap and die that is hard to get, rare, and expensive.

 

[Mark Bartlett]

Hey all,
Saw one of these at the Great American Steam Up in Brooks Oregon last summer and fell in love with it. Apparently it is one of the more rare, but highly spoken of. Purple (powder coat???) Apparently the builder got lucky and some high falutin' pinstriper did the pinstriping on it. It really is a gorgeous machine. The only original that still runs was also there and got to see that in operation too. I hope to even replicate the cooling system.

This is for now, a sideline, fill in project until the one ahead of it is completed. This way when one project is held up it will be possible to work on another and chill the brain cells as needed. Also we have another member starting on one also and we have been in contact. I welcome interaction, but please lets stay on the given topic and questions. There is another build out there by a member here,
http://www.teqknow.com/Shop/Mery.html
That one is done by someone who knows their pooh, I am a wannabe machinist so it might be of interest to watch me stumble along.

First order of business is to get the 60 sheets of drawings (8.5x11) into a notebook in the protective plastic sleeves. Learned about using sleeves on another project and in the oily dirty environment they are just awesome. Additionally there are a few sheets where it will be necessary to refer back and forth. With greasy fingers this quickly soils good drawings. Plus this way they can be kept in order in a 3-ring binder. Frankly for this type of project I prefer the smaller sheets over huge plan sets. (Actually turning one set into 8.5x11 sheets for a traction engine in my spare moments.)

If anyone is interested, my casting is #361

Not much to say, Got it all reamed and the shaft turns glassy smooth with fingertips. Halves separated and solder wiped off while still hot, recheck shaft after all said and done. The first photo is how I kept the bearings tight while drilling.View attachment 109330 View attachment 109331 View attachment 109332

 

[Mark Bartlett]

Hi Jack I need to pm you cant find how to do that Can someone tell me where it is

 

[Jack3M]

Use the start a conversation link. I PM'd you anyhow so you can use that.

 

[Jack3M]

Quite a week already for me. You-Tube is an awesome library for me, I can sort through the various ways of learning something. Threading is not just a 1-2 thing. It takes math, resources, gear changes, measurements, and understanding of how it all goes together. I do not know much at all but got enough to do this task.

So the exhaust chambers have a threaded cap, holes drilled at angles to intersect the chambers either above or below the valve itself. One side is 8 deg. angle the other is 10 deg. angle. I used angle blocks to set the part at the proper angle and drilled appropriately.

The threaded part was designed to be 11/16-32. No way I will spend that much just to thread this odd size. Alter the threads to what I have on hand and learn how to thread the caps in the same thread which was 5/8-18. Pretty big difference, but made aluminum 'crush' washers to assist with the seal.

Very rewarding to have learned and utilized a new skill.

The actual process once indicating in the part was to work from the top, go thru with the smallest drill, ream that to size. It went all the way thru. Then the below the valve head cavity is created which goes almost all the way. Just used a simple drill bit closest to the right size over a round nose bit. Created the step for the valve seat at the size to thread the above tap that I did have.

Hopefully all was explained, with the below photos to get a better grasp.
Thanks for following.

 

[karlw144]

Great job Jack. Just started the clevis and rods to go along with the eccentrics. Making them to print dimensions is challenging, wanted to just use 3/8 or 7/16 square stock, but I’m making them to print. The exhaust chambers will be coming soon. Thanks for the details.

 

[Jack3M]

Hey Karl, I made mine to specs and they are just a skoosh to tight, I would give an extra .010" to make for smoother function. I still need to modify mine.

 

[Jack3M]

I got word yesterday my son and his wife are expecting twins in May. Sorta-kinda, WOW. Still early, much could change, but I am bursting at seams.

 

[PhilL]

Congrats Gramps!!

 

[Jack3M]

Karl, found mistakes in plan sizes for the clevis and arm holes. Just make sure they have the same size hole. Also need to get enough depth that the motion can occur at the clevis.

Mounted up the 4 chambers, which involved removing the cylinder, drilling and tapping all the holes. Studs in all but the 4 top explosion chambers as the nuts were to large of diameter to fit so used allen head. Of course gaskets....from cereal box cardboard.

As above, as things moved along, the shaft for the arms, the clevises and such need 'adjustment' from the plans. Needed more length to centrally locate the rocking arms. As above, the clevises are not deep enough to allow full movement, so that needs changed too. None of this is a big deal, just a back up a step or two and modify as necessary.

 

[karlw144]

Jack, thanks for the tip on the depth of the cut in the clevis and mis match on hole sizes. Got my clevis, rods, and nuts done, now might have to change them a bit. Working on the explosion chambers and just noticed that you had 8 studs on the top, my drawing (and now the parts) only have 6. Was that your idea? That whole area for the valve and seat and insert is up next, a little intimidating. Did you make your valve stem .125”?

 

[Jack3M]

I used 8 because some folks had mentioned them blowing gaskets.....Ya .125" drill rod. I am finding some stuff is just easier to use a close something else.

Not sure if I mentioned above, but the hole for the valve stem I reamed at .125 also, and I threw out the guides as they just kept screwing me up. My leakage at the stem is minimal without the guide.

Kind of at impasse now as I had to order some brass pipe for fuel lines. I could start on oilers, but I kind of want a break from this and am starting 2 more hit-n-miss kits.

Speaking of oilers, anyone got an inexpensive source for thin wall glass tube in small amounts?

Asking the same for Brass tubing/pipe large diameter, like 3-4" copper would also do

 

[Philipintexas]

RE: Your question about glass tube.... I used clear plastic tube which is readily available. Easier to use and works great for oilers.

 

[Jack3M]

Where and what type of plastic?

 

[Philipintexas]

Available in sticks up to 5-6’ at most home building supply stores or hardware stores. Some hobby supply stores have shorter sticks. It is easy to cut, clear and impervious to oil.

For piping, I used 1/4” brass along with same size valves and connectors from Cole’s.

 

[Jack3M]

Coles? I think they are out of business. I use PM Research for that type of stuff. Actually right now I am drawing and printing up plugs to just cast my own. Will look at HD for the plastic.

 

[Jack3M]

Kind of dinking around doing little things. In particular, since the keyways and flywheel seem to cause issue, decided to incorporate some set screws that tighten down on the keyway itself as can be seen in the photo. Interestingly I had just the right size drill for this and it was a foot long, so it was not difficult to do.

 

[Jack3M]

No photos today. Sorry. Have been working on the display stand, the exhaust flanges, and some other assorted sundries. Removed the engine from the stand and started doing the appearance stuff, like floor planking. Used to make guitars and took some of my fancy woods that I didn't know what to do with, in this case, Bubinga. Stripped out some of the 1/8 sheets I made years ago. Used lots of CA glue between the seams, which will blend in completely when it is all finished. Along with that, the water pump area needed underside reinforcement. This was accomplished.

Have spent hours and hours on these exhaust flanges. Call is for 9/16-40, I can't even find reference data for that in my Machinery Handbook, but it did have 9/16-32 and the lathe will set up for that thread. Got the flanges done finally, and the first time I have done inside threads. I think I should have taken another 10 thou out, but managed. The Brass pipe threaded until I got to the other end of the nipple and then it caught and trashed the part. I called it a day at that one, but was going well.

Also made a plug and sand casted two elbows (in bronze) for the exhaust piping. As explained elsewhere, by someone else, the exhaust needs to be single and not combined for the smaller engine to run well, so it will be singles. Also since it is supposed to suck some fresh air from these too, they will be short, not sure if face up or down at this point.

Actually the threading stuff is pretty neat once you get the hang of your machine and the book data. I still do need to design and cast the water pump. So far it is all in my head.

 

[Philipintexas]

Casting your own exhaust elbows would be a challenge but have you looked at cast-iron (1/4” ID. I think) elbows at a hardware store? they work well with about 1/2” pipe and the scale is appropriate.

 

[PhilL]

For exhaust, I used the cast ones from the hardware store but I turned down what I could and tried to make them smaller. The intake side I did the same with the brass fittings.