made my first machinist clamps

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Very nice work indeed. Howevsr, what was even more impresssive was the etching. I will be more than obliged if you share the secret with me.


Thanks, george
 
Very nice work indeed. Howevsr, what was even more impresssive was the etching. I will be more than obliged if you share the secret with me.


Thanks, george

really no secret to the etching. its very easy. I bought a used electro etching kit from ebay. its called an etch-o-matic. www.etch-o-matic.com since then I have experimented with other ways and I can tell you that you can very easily make your own.

first is the stencil, the etcho matic kit comes with a film coated silk screen. (not sure if its silk really but guessing). you print your logo or name on a piece of transparency film (the clear plastic sheets like you use for an overhead projector) and lay it on top of this film. you put this under a u.v. lamp for a couple of mins and then put it in developer solution. what it does is remove the plastic from the silk sheet that did not get hit with uv light. so you have your name in silk and the rest is a platic barrier that will block the electricity except through the silk part.

now that you have the stencil you tape it to the part and then take your etcher and wet it with electrolyte. plug in the etcher and press it down for about 5 seconds and lift, then repeat about 10 times and you have a nice dark etch.


now for the home-made way.
2 choices on the etcher: ac verses dc current. then etcho matic does both with a recitifier diode. dc current makes a deeper etch but doesn't turn very black, just sort of a dark gray, ac current makes a good black but not very deep. so what I do is start with dc to get the depth, then switch to AC to make it black.

I had a 12v ac transformer I bought at Radio Shack and a rectifier diode I bought there to. (don't have the part numbers but any 12 v ac transformer of decent size should work) and if you have a 12 v dc transformer as well then you wont need the rectifier diode.

attach the positive lead of the transformer to the metal piece you want to etch and the negative lead to a q-tip soaked in a salt water solution (as much salt as you can possibly dissolve in water) shake off excess solution from the qtip so it isn't dripping wet and just start dabbing at your stencil you should hear a little sizzle sound and start seeing some brown or black come on the qtip if its working. if you see that then you are on your way.
remember dc = deep, ac = black when etching steel. havnt done brass or anything else yet.


I have seen people use finger nail polish to paint on a stencil on the part then once etched used fingernail polish remover to clean it up. I have also seen electric tape and a craft knife used to make a vinyl stencil.



edit- should also add that the uv stencils you make are re-usable many times. I have yet to wear out my name stencil.

2nd edit - when I say positive lead to the metal piece you are etching, that's assuming you are using a dc transformer, ac transformers it doesn't matter which of the 2 wires you use.
 
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I've heard of some folks just heating with torch (or heat treating oven if you have it) then dunking in used motor oil. I don't know how hot they are heating the parts but not too hot; propane torch on small parts is plenty it sounds like.

Watch out for fire hazard when dunking in oil.

Paul
 
Have really illuminated the darkness in my 74years old heart. Thank a lot,
George
 
I also made a pair many years ago in the apprentice school
I stamped my name,filled with silver solder and cleaned up
before getting them chemically blackend.Gold lettering on
black looks really nice.Must say that yours are a joy to behold
far better than mine.They look too good to use CONGRATS
Regards barry
 
Hi paul, thenks for kind respone.
I was socarried away by the etching info that i forgot to thank you.

George
 
I had considered and still am thinking about the degree marking on my compound. the painted aluminum degree graduation band that is riveted on my compound now got mangled so I thought if I printed a new one out on a transparency film and then made a new stencil I could do it.

but to many other unfinished, non working projects I need to go back and make right before I start any more.....:hDe:
 
And a last one!
What is the developer mentioned? Does it come from etcho or you buy it somewhere.

Thanks a lot

George
 
edit - when i say mine came from etch o matic, i should say it was etch o matic brand but bought on ebay.
2nd edit - there are folks out there who will make you some stencils with this method if you don't want to buy the kit.
here is a link to just one of many who will make you stencils if you email him the logo or art work.
http://www.erniesknives.com/knifemaker_stencil.html (i have no experience having them made for you or with this person) but if you don't need a lot of different stencils then this might be the way to go.


mine came from etch-o-matic, there are a few different types. 1 is the type writer kind that you use an old timey type writer or dot matrix printer and the impact of the head actually removes the "resist" material to make the stencil, and the type i used which is the "photo developer" type almost like the process for home photo etching circuit boards for electronics.

don't be scared away by the photo type as it is way easier than it sounds. try a couple of small stencils with just your name so you don't waste so much material if you have mistakes. once you have a good stencil it will last a very long time. these stencils also work for chemical glass etching as well.

here is an ebay listing for a kit that looks to be in about the same rough shape my kit was in but worked like a charm for me
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Etch-O-Mati...568?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae6f5b648

and here is a link to etch-o-matic with the stencil kit. also take a look on this same site for glass etching, you will see more about the same stencils
http://www.etch-o-matic.com/440.htm

you also get aluminum sheets coated with a red dye (or at least i did) that has glue on the other side, you photo develop your sign on the aluminum and then stick the sign on. for example, you have an on/off switch that isn't labled, you can print the on/off design on your printer and then develop it on the aluminum and just cut the sheet with scisors and stick on the machine with a professional looking on/off label. no etching even required for that. but the red dye will scratch just like a painted metal on/off switch will eventually.
the price for this kit is in my opinion way over priced and found my kit on ebay for about half the price.

same kit but on glass etching: http://www.glass-etching-kits.com/mark_440.htm
 
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