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BMyers

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I finished, now if I can get the damn thing to run. best so far is the flywheels oscillating back and forth. I am wondering if I need a better fuel than denatured alcohol. Doesnt seem like there is enough heat. These flame engines are tough, maybe I will stick to IC's.

poppin3.jpg
 
Denatured alcohol comes in several different strengths. Some of the lower "Octane" alcohols only contain 90% or less of alcohol and the rest water. These don't burn as hot as the higher percentage.

I've found that a good alternative is coleman lantern fuel. I also built a Poppin fire eater and got it to run on coleman whereas I never could get it to run on alcohol.

Chuck

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TI-scZGthc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0TI-scZGthc[/ame]
 
where can i get Coleman lantern fuel ? It is worth a try
 
BMyers said:
where can i get Coleman lantern fuel ? It is worth a try

HEET in the yellow bottle will also burn very hot...hotter than denat. alcohol. Check the label, you want the methanol version, not the Iso-HEET crap.
 
Coleman Lantern fuel is available from Walmart, Kmart, probably most hardware stores, sporting good stores.

Chuck
 
BMyers said:
where can i get Coleman lantern fuel ? It is worth a try

Any sporting goods outlet or the sporting/camping section in Wally World (Walmart) should carry Coleman fuel, some of the other 'bigbox' outlets in your area should also.
 
Here are a few pointers you may want to check.
Are your flywheels heavy enough to keep the engine rolling?

There can be no friction anywhere.

The cylinder and piston fit must be perfect.
The cylinder is honed and lapped.
The piston fit should be like this:
without any oil, the piston should fall through the cylinder by itself.
If you put your thumb over the end of the cylinder, the piston will stay in the cylinder by the vacuum.

The spring valve can be tricky. Only 2 or 3 thous. thick.
It's position is critical so that it covers the inlet hole when closed, but does not rub too much.
The heat of the flame will distort the spring steel and it will need replaced occasionally to keep sealing properly.

The flame position is critical too. Too far away, you don't get enough heat.

They work great once the bugs are worked out.

good Luck

Doug
 
Be careful with the lantern fuel (white gas). It is assentially low octane gasoline. If the engine is setup right denatured alcohol should work fine.
 
Flame lickers are finicky engines.
The Poppin plans suggest the engine will run in either direction if the valve
is times to close 55 degrees before BDC. Mine never would.
In the beginning, it would start up cold with no preheating if the valve
was set to close 45 degrees before BDC in the clockwise rotation with the
heat from a eythel alcohol flame. After a few months it had to be preheated.
A few months later it would only run on Coleman fuel.
Then I changed the valve timing to 45 degrees before BDC in the counter clockwise
direction. Once again it would start up cold with heat of an eythel alcohol flame.

Any atmospheric engine will keep you guessing.

One Important Note.
Treat Coleman fuel as you would gasoline!
It has a very low flash point and an octane level that makes it
a fuel to be respected.


(I see Jadecy beat me to that warning, but it deserves repeating.)

Rick
 
Ok,
I made a new reed valve with no drag. Denatured alcohol and a few minutes later I had a runner. Video to follow !
 
BMyers said:
Ok,
I made a new reed valve with no drag. Denatured alcohol and a few minutes later I had a runner. Video to follow !

Glad to hear that you got a runner! :bow: :bow: :bow:

Can't wait for the video and to see it running.

I would like to build one, but the crank is still a concern for me.

Are those fly wheels aluminum?.

-MB
 
MB,
I had to make 5 cranks before I made a keeper. The flywheels are bronze bearing material. I scrounged a bar of 2" x 20"
 
Did you make any changes besides the smaller 2"flywheel.

Materials, dimensions, etc.

-MB
 

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