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It's taken me a bit longer than I said, but here are a few piccies of my setup.
The mould can be made in lots of different ways, a couple of flattish blocks held together with g-cramp and a basic plug in the end of the hole would do it.
Anyway here are the pics
As you can see, mine is a three piece mould, four if you count the jubilee clip. It should be self explanatory if you look closely.
In this shot, you can see the two 1/4" cross holes, they allow lead to swarm inside and thru the actual tube and so hold the solid head in position.
Also in the shot I have shown the stainless chill rod that is pushed up inside the handle to stop the lead running down inside. You need to warm up the mould to stop the lead chilling on the mould surface and giving you a horrible surface finish, I warm it up by playing a blowtorch around the inside with the handle in place, so the rod isn't put in until that is done and the lead is just ready to pour.
How things go together, showing the position of the handle and chill rod before the lead pour.
And how it comes apart after the hammer has solidified.
Just a few notes.
After the lead is poured, it will start to contract inside the mould. I play a burner onto the open face of the lead while it sets lower down in the mould, this will stop it having a sunken centre on the hammer face. Add a bit more molten lead and remelt the face if it sinks too far.
A few sizes of my hammers.
Head size = 2.25" long X 1.25" diameter.
Total handle length is 8" and has a diameter of 0.75"
During use, you lose very little of the lead, it just gets badly distorted. So all you have to do is remelt the head off and add a tiny bit more lead to the mix and then recast it.
If looked after, the mould should last a lifetime. This one has had a couple of dozen cast in it already, and it is almost like new.
John
The mould can be made in lots of different ways, a couple of flattish blocks held together with g-cramp and a basic plug in the end of the hole would do it.
Anyway here are the pics
As you can see, mine is a three piece mould, four if you count the jubilee clip. It should be self explanatory if you look closely.
In this shot, you can see the two 1/4" cross holes, they allow lead to swarm inside and thru the actual tube and so hold the solid head in position.
Also in the shot I have shown the stainless chill rod that is pushed up inside the handle to stop the lead running down inside. You need to warm up the mould to stop the lead chilling on the mould surface and giving you a horrible surface finish, I warm it up by playing a blowtorch around the inside with the handle in place, so the rod isn't put in until that is done and the lead is just ready to pour.
How things go together, showing the position of the handle and chill rod before the lead pour.
And how it comes apart after the hammer has solidified.
Just a few notes.
After the lead is poured, it will start to contract inside the mould. I play a burner onto the open face of the lead while it sets lower down in the mould, this will stop it having a sunken centre on the hammer face. Add a bit more molten lead and remelt the face if it sinks too far.
A few sizes of my hammers.
Head size = 2.25" long X 1.25" diameter.
Total handle length is 8" and has a diameter of 0.75"
During use, you lose very little of the lead, it just gets badly distorted. So all you have to do is remelt the head off and add a tiny bit more lead to the mix and then recast it.
If looked after, the mould should last a lifetime. This one has had a couple of dozen cast in it already, and it is almost like new.
John
Thank you Bogs, I will make one soon. :bow:
Maverick, I really enjoyed that post!!!
Dave, I remember sending or being sent for muffler bearings, or on a different occasion, a bucket of sparks from the welding shop.
A friend that worked for an airline, was sent for a left handed wrench. Since he was a knowledgeable mechanic that had gone back to school to be an engineer( some people might say a step back- just kidding), He found a quiet corner and studied for several hours, then he went back to the shop and told them he could not find what they wanted anywhere.
They covered his absence.
Regards and thanks,
Fred
Maverick, I really enjoyed that post!!!
Dave, I remember sending or being sent for muffler bearings, or on a different occasion, a bucket of sparks from the welding shop.
A friend that worked for an airline, was sent for a left handed wrench. Since he was a knowledgeable mechanic that had gone back to school to be an engineer( some people might say a step back- just kidding), He found a quiet corner and studied for several hours, then he went back to the shop and told them he could not find what they wanted anywhere.
They covered his absence.
Regards and thanks,
Fred
the artfull-codger
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good idea Bogs, I'll hve to make on for myself, thanks for the info !!
mcostello
Member
Shop I was at, a chap had a set of Micrometers that were junk. He would walk up to a newbie and offer to sell them to him. While handing them over , they would get dropped. Then the apprentice would be told how clumsy he was and how valuable those mics were. Made a few peoples face go grey when they thought they would have to pay for them. Were told later.
steamboatmodel
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Just a note to anyone starting out, Only use your "Lead Thumpers" at home. Most places due to Health and Safety forbid them is workplaces. I have retired mine for most uses and now use a small dead blow hammer with plastic/rubber faces.
Regards,
Gerald.
Regards,
Gerald.
