Kiwi piston dimensions

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mike Ginn

Well-Known Member
HMEM Supporting Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2020
Messages
336
Reaction score
140
Location
UK
Guys. I have completed the machining of the piston for the Kiwi MK2 from solid. All is well and I have left the length as 1 1/8inch which is longer than needed.

My question is "how far from the top of the cylinder should the top of the piston be". This obviously affects the compression and Westbury makes a reference to this for the cylinder machining. The engine is only intended for occasional use and will not be used to drive anything.

I would appreciate any guidance

Many thanks

Mike
 
If it were me I'd leave it full height and shorten if need be. Leave ring grooves lower on the piston in case it needs lowering. I tend to think slightly higher compression ratios are good in a model as they seem to make idling lower and more consistent, there are limits of course.
 
Thanks for that reply. As an update I found I had the GA which shows the top of the piston flush with the cylinder liner top so I guess that is what I will do.

I cut up my drawings and scan each part and print on A4 (letter) size. During this process I "lost" the GA but now found!

Thanks

Mike
 
Hello Mike,
My drawings are in inch and the piston top is flush with the top of cylinder liner.
Hope this helps,
John
 

Attachments

  • kiwi II Pistion in inch.jpg
    kiwi II Pistion in inch.jpg
    322.1 KB
  • Kiwi piston top.jpg
    Kiwi piston top.jpg
    1.7 MB
Guys
Some advice please. I have finished (well almost) my KIWI and need to get it running. Using an electric drill it will fire but it is not sustained. I am using Coleman fuel. I have removed the float and valve and am using the float chamber as the fuel tank (I have blocked the normal fuel inlet at the base). I notice that the engine usually fires when the fuel is about level with the outlet to the carb and that maybe is a clue. I could rig up a fuel tank and set-up the float to keep the fuel level with the outlet if that is the solution.
I have a general lack of experience of running this type of engine so any thoughts would be appreciated.
Many thanks
Mike
1725725531391.png
 
Hi Guys
I have finished the Kiwi and mounted it on a base. A few things to note. The round device under the carb is the flywheel extractor - the flywheel has a taper sleeve and the extractor screws into the flywheel with a central screw to extract. The contacts design was taken from the Wyvern, also a Westbury model. The head, crank case and back end of the crank has "O" ring seals. O rings are also used in the carb to give a smooth lever motion. All fixings are BA with reduced heads.
I still have to get it to run. I think I will need to use a vapour system since the float chamber doesn't work very well.
Many thanks to those who have offered help over the past year.
Now for the next model!
Mike
DSC_0583-a.JPG
DSC_0584-a.JPG
DSC_0588-a.JPG
DSC_0589-a.JPG
 
Mike,

Early on I made a Wall 30 which is very similar to your ETW designed engine. It was my first engine. Anyway, I never got it to run properly on three different home made carbs of various designs. I finally fitted an OS model airplane carb and never looked back. I think the only thing harder in building a model IC engine than getting the valves to seat is making a carb that works properly.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top