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Did the pivot screw for the contact point arm. Simple turning and tapping operation. To cut the groove in the screw head (photo 1) I used a 1mm end mill. Photo 2 showing the finished screw. Did some more carving in the bracket. I am not following the plan dimensions as the contact point arm is different. Infact I am adjusting the dimensions on the fly to cater for this contact point arm.

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Hi Vince

I'm still following along here; you are making great progress on your engine!

Thanks for posting the updates; my project (the Pacific) has kind of stalled due to lack of time on my part. Hopefully I will be able to make some more progress in the next week or two.

Dave
 
Thanks Dave for your continued support. Appreciate it.

Vince
 
Some more progress on the timing bracket. Drilled and reamed 5mm the hole where the leaf spring of the contact arm is fixed (photo 1). This spring has to be insulated from the bracket. So next done were a couple of tefnol bushes. The tefnol came with the kit. Simple turning and drilling operation. Photo 2 showing both bushes. Photo 3 showing the bushes fitted to the bracket. Photo 4 is showing the contact arm fitted to the bracket and photo 5 the contact arm fitted to the timing cover.

This basically makes the bracket casting complete. I still need to clean it up which hopefully I will do this weekend. I also need to buy some 4mm brass screws, nuts and washers as I have finished them.

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Not sure Jan. Either that or the oil reservoir. Eventually I need to do the carb.

Vince
 
This is looking good Vince! I've been following this build in the shadows since before I joined the forum :)
 
Hi Vince, I have never built an IC so can not comment on your engine other then your craftmanship which is great. Keep up the beautiful work. I will follow till you complete.

Don
 
Hi Don

Thanks for looking in.

I have never built an IC

Same here. Actually this is my first ever model engine and as such the end result is still uncertain. Wish me luck.

Vince
 
I cleaned up the ignition bracket and used a longer 4mm brass screw to hold the contact point arm leaf spring. Now I need to get hold of a 12V ignition coil and condensor to see if I can make the spark plug work with the ignition bracket. I need to find a wiring diagram for the ignition, so if somebody out there has one handy could you please be so kind and post it.

Decided to next work on the oil reservoir (I chickened out of making the carb as yet). It mainly consists of a transperant plastic tube and brass endcaps and fittings. For the plastic tube I thought of using the body of a 10ml plastic syringe (photo 1). It is wider than what I need but I will adjust the dimensions of the endcaps accordingly. I managed to remove the black graduations (photo 2) with nail polish remover that I surruptitiously "borrowed".

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Today I started work on the oil reservoir. I need to cut the body of the syringe to a specified lenght but did not want to use a hacksaw. So I devised a setup using a Stanley knife blade (sorry but I do not know what they call them in the States). Using a toolmaker's clamp I clamped the blade to the toolpost of the lathe as shown in photo 1. Did a trial cut and it worked nicely.

Photo 2 is showing the plastic tube cut to lenght.

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Thanks Todd and Ian for your kind comments. Also thanks Ian for the wiring diagram. I am assuming that the earth in the diagram is the metal body of the engine. Also I am thinking of using a 12V battery and a 12V coil. I suspect it is overkill but it easier to find 12V components. What do you think?

Vince
 
Vince,

you are correct. In this case, earth/ground will be your machine frame. Using a 12V battery with the proper 12V coil and Condenser is perfectly fine.

I'm looking forward toi seeing this one run :)
 
Did some more work on the reservoir. Made the 5mm centre tube with threads on each end (photo 1). There were no dimensions for the inside diameter so I made it 2.5mm for now. I haven't cross drilled for the oil and air hole as yet.

Did also the end caps. As they are the same I decided to make them together from the same bar stock. Using 18mm bar stock I marked and partially parted the end caps. Drilled and tapped 5mm and then plunged a 16mm endmill 1.5mm deep (photo 2). Opened up to desired ID with a boring tool (photo 3). Parted off the first end cap and did the same procedure for the second end cap.

Photo 4 is showing both finished end caps and photo 5 the end caps fitted to the plastic tube. Filled the reservoir with water to see if it leaks (photo 6). I was surprised to find that it did not leak at all but left it like that with the water to see if it leaks in the long run.

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Great job Vince, I am still following with interest.

Don
 
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