Kiwi Mk II

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Thanks Richard and Andrew. Yes I have seen Vince's excellent build write-up and of course yours Richard. I also intend to follow ETW's sequence since it seems logical. I have just started machining the crankcase and noted the warnings about coring errors which are to be expected. I did a quick measurement and found that it would be very easy to have a "one" sided spigot. The approach and jig I made is shown in the photo. I am not aware that this approach has been taken by others but it does seem to work. Now to machine the bearing recess - I know if it all goes wrong I can fall back to Loctite 603!
Mike
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Hi Charles
Not sure how the face plate would help. The initial cut was with the casting secured in a 4 jaw with a center. The second cut used the 1/4 inch thick disc in the 3 jaw to make a very light cut. My concern was movement of the disc which could have been Loctited or had paper between the surfaces. I could have used a thicker disc but 1/4 seemed ok. I think a faceplate would have needed a lot of setting up and clamps and I wouldn't really know where the spigot would be when the casting was reversed - that was the beauty of the disc!.
It worked and was quick!
Mike
 
Hi, I am getting my head around this one. Without thinking too deeply about this...
I would have followed the following process:
Hold acting in a 4 -jaw chuck to create the datum face. Or set-up on the miller and mill it flat. Whatever suits available tooling.
If possible, without changing the set-up, drill and bore/ream the shaft hole from the inside of the casing. That way, the shaft hole is exactly where you want it relative to the casing interior. Also define and ream the dowel holes on the flange for whatever goes on the open casing. The all the datums are defined in a single setting.
To main the OD of the spigot, mount the casting on a mandril, set true in the lathe, using the bore. I think this is essentially what you have done, but why use the disc? A shouldered shaft as a mandril sold have been enough I think?
Any better ideas, I am here to learn!
K2
 
Hi, I am getting my head around this one. Without thinking too deeply about this...
I would have followed the following process:
Hold acting in a 4 -jaw chuck to create the datum face. Or set-up on the miller and mill it flat. Whatever suits available tooling.
If possible, without changing the set-up, drill and bore/ream the shaft hole from the inside of the casing. That way, the shaft hole is exactly where you want it relative to the casing interior. Also define and ream the dowel holes on the flange for whatever goes on the open casing. The all the datums are defined in a single setting.
To main the OD of the spigot, mount the casting on a mandril, set true in the lathe, using the bore. I think this is essentially what you have done, but why use the disc? A shouldered shaft as a mandril sold have been enough I think?
Any better ideas, I am here to learn!
K2
Hi K2. I think we are saying that there is more than one way to skin a cat! When I first skimmed the chucking piece and reversed the casting I found that, when machined, the spigot would be very lopsided. My solution was to define the spigot position without much setup and to then re-skim the chucking piece and carry on machining from there using a collet. I did flatten the face on a surface plate - not much spare metal.
Mike
 
It has been a while since I've posted due to various distractions. However I have now been able to get on and finish all the fiddly bits for the carburettor, as well as give it a bit of a polish up. Quite pleased with how this has come out for a first attempt at a carb from what was quite a rough casting. Hopefully it will work!View attachment 134664
 
It has been a while since I've posted due to various distractions. However I have now been able to get on and finish all the fiddly bits for the carburettor, as well as give it a bit of a polish up. Quite pleased with how this has come out for a first attempt from what was quite a rough casting. Hopefully it will work!
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Nice work, as we've come to expect! Two things (for anyone who hasn't made their needles yet) first is that Dremel sell a polishing wheel, #425, that'll shine up a needle after grinding, just like one out of the wife's sewing box. Second, it's nice to see that you took the trouble to make the spherical o/d to the banjo. Did you use the tube trick?

Andrew UK
 
Nice work, as we've come to expect! Two things (for anyone who hasn't made their needles yet) first is that Dremel sell a polishing wheel, #425, that'll shine up a needle after grinding, just like one out of the wife's sewing box. Second, it's nice to see that you took the trouble to make the spherical o/d to the banjo. Did you use the tube trick?

Andrew UK
Thanks Andrew. I started with an oversized shiny needle and then used the Dremel to grind the taper. It was all a bit Heath Robinson on the lathe but seemed to have worked ok. I wasn't very happy with the strength of the thin knurled wheel, so added another threaded ring that butts up against it to add some strengths. Seems to work!

What's 'the tube trick?' If I did use it it would have been by accident!
 
The tube trick is a good one. I first saw it at the 1981 M E Exhibition, then George H Thomas wrote a chapter on it in "The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual". It can be used on steel, but it works best on brass- turn your ball blank to its eventual length, turn the o/d plus a thou or two, and rough to a ball-ish sort of shape. Mark the o/d with a permanent marker. Then take a piece of round steel, not much bigger than the ball you want, face it, drill and ream it to a size smaller than the ball you want, and case harden it.

Euclid- Any section through a sphere is a circle...

Spin the lathe up, and present your new tool to the work with your hands. Roll it around the blank, and the excess material will be shaved off. Roll it around between your fingers as you go.

***This is a golden opportunity to slip and punch the chuck, so be careful!***

When the marker ink is shaved off, you've reached finished size, and a perfect sphere. A quick rub with fine scotchbrite (read- worn out scouring pad) and you're done.

Unbelievably, I can find no reference to this method on the internet; just lots of people selling expensive attachments.

For bigger radii, I use two other methods too- I'll explain them when you need 'em.

-Andrew UK
 
The tube trick is a good one. I first saw it at the 1981 M E Exhibition, then George H Thomas wrote a chapter on it in "The Model Engineer's Workshop Manual". It can be used on steel, but it works best on brass- turn your ball blank to its eventual length, turn the o/d plus a thou or two, and rough to a ball-ish sort of shape. Mark the o/d with a permanent marker. Then take a piece of round steel, not much bigger than the ball you want, face it, drill and ream it to a size smaller than the ball you want, and case harden it.

Euclid- Any section through a sphere is a circle...

Spin the lathe up, and present your new tool to the work with your hands. Roll it around the blank, and the excess material will be shaved off. Roll it around between your fingers as you go.

***This is a golden opportunity to slip and punch the chuck, so be careful!***

When the marker ink is shaved off, you've reached finished size, and a perfect sphere. A quick rub with fine scotchbrite (read- worn out scouring pad) and you're done.

Unbelievably, I can find no reference to this method on the internet; just lots of people selling expensive attachments.

For bigger radii, I use two other methods too- I'll explain them when you need 'em.

-Andrew UK
 
Oh now I get it! When I first read your description I thought you meant holding up a flattish plate with a hole in it which sounded rather scary against a fast running chuck! But I can see how a hardened tube would work.

I actually made mine using the Hemingway 'sensitive' ball turning tool that I made up some time a go.
 
I have been cracking on with the float chamber for the Kiwi, making it up from brass bar stock as I thought that would look better than the aluminium casting supplied.

I made the clip from a spare feeler gauge that I tempered first so that I could work with it and then re-hardened after shaping, to give it back its spring. Seems to do the trick!
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Nice work on the spring- it's a fiddle, isn't it! So are you going for the full float carb, or the mini fuel tank approach?

-Andrew
 
Hi Andrew,

I have decided to go with the full float chamber approach. I am going to see if I can make the float itself from very thin-walled turned aluminium. It remains to be seen whether I can make something light enough to actually float!
 
I’ve now made progress on the float assembly, making it out of very thin walled turned aluminium. It just about floats! But whether there will be enough closing pressure to seal the valve remains to be seen! If it doesn’t work I can always revert to a cork or bale afloat.

 

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Delighted to say that I've pretty much finished the Kiwi Mark II and it is a runner! The thin-walled aluminium float seems to work well and maintains a steady level of fuel in the float chamber. I went with the ignition points casting that was supplied although I had to fettle it quite a bit to make it work, and have twinned with a mini mag ignition system.

There are a few photos of the finished engine and a link to a YouTube video that shows it running! I need to fabricate an exhaust and sort out a proper base etc. but the back is definitely broken on this project!

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Here is the link to the YouTube video of the engine running!

 

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