Jerry Howell's Radiator

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hello Peter,
it gave me quite a surprise to get your post, I was beginning to wonder if any Sealion's were being built, I have had mine going for at least 30 years and that's just the one, so your doing pretty good, and 2 of them at that, I must commend you on your workmanship and added design features, I have filed your photos in a folder to enable zoom for more detail, and I would like to communicate for more details, I basically just followed words and music in my build with just a few changes, I did find a few mistakes on the drawings but nothing too serious, I think I am just going to carry on following Edgars plans, but I have been toying with the idea of adding lube to the top end, I do have an idea but I would like to pick your brains and compare, if you would be willing, I am interested in your metering valve for transfer of lube to the top end,

I don't have my engine together at this point I have attached a few old photos,

IMG_3339.jpg


IMG_3341.jpg


IMG_3345.jpg


IMG_3355.jpg


IMG_3367.jpg


IMG_3372.jpg


n_a+(7).jpg


n_a+(11).jpg


n_a+(16) (1).jpg


n_a+(17).jpg


n_a+(23).jpg
 
Hello Edmund (Walter),
Those pictures are great and reflect your outstanding quality of workmanship throughout. As mentioned before, I am not at the point where I have tackled the majority of the internal engine parts. I am getting too much sidetracked by the ideas I am getting while building the engines. Pursuing these ideas for incorporation into the Sealion has me delaying building the actual engine parts.

Regarding your interest in how I am doing the lube of the top end, it is quite simple. I am using the dia. 3/16" rocker shaft as the conduit to provide oil to the rocker bushes and camshaft bearings. I drilled the shaft lengthwise all the way through, drilling from both ends using a dia. 1/16" aircraft drill to minimize the drill wandering too much, although it did a little anyway. Broke three drills and did throw away three shafts - couldn't get the bits out. One shaft end has a shoulder for an O-ring connecting to an oval flange for the oil supply pipe that will be branched off from the oil feed to the crankshaft. The oval flange attaches to the flywheel end of the camshaft housing. The other shaft end is tapped M 2 and capped off with an M 2 set screw to block off the oil. I cross drilled the shaft at the rocker bush locations using a dia. 0.5 MM drill and cross drilled the rocker bushes dia. 0.5 MM as well so that the oil can pass through to lubricate the rocker arms.
In order to get oil to the 3 camshaft bronze bearings I drilled from the top, where ETW indicates the three places to fasten a possible camshaft cover to the camshaft housing, dia. 2.5 MM holes from the rocker shaft level down to the camshaft level / camshaft bushings and tapped the three holes M 3. Into these three oil passages from the rocker shaft location down to the camshaft location go M 3 vented set screws with an 0.5 MM vent hole to restrict oil flow. These set screws also prevent the bronze bushings from rotation in case they get lose. In addition to the 0.5 MM cross drilled holes for the rocker bushes, there are three dia. 0.5 MM cross drilled holes at the three camshaft bushing locations to allow oil passage to the camshaft bearings. The rocker shaft has to be rotated with the three dia. 0.5 MM holes pointing down to allow oil to pass. To prevent the rocker shaft from rotating, three M 3 set screws from the top lock the shaft in place. To get the oil drained back down, I drilled a 5.0 MM hole through the timing case back plate in a location near the indentation in the camshaft housing under the camshaft.
I don't have any drawings that show the arrangement. I hope the description provides enough food for imagination but feel free to ask for more clarification if needed. You probably noticed that I am using MM dimensions and metric hardware. That is what I am used to and find easier to work with.

I mentioned previously that I also incorporated Jerry Howell's oil pressure regulator with some modification into the Sealion build. I have some pictures of that attached, together with a couple of sketches that provide some ideas re assembly and dimensions.

Peter J.

001 (800x600).jpg


002.jpg


003 (600x800).jpg


004 (800x600) (800x600) (2).jpg


005 (800x600).jpg


014 (800x600).jpg


015 (800x600).jpg


016 (800x600).jpg


Sealion relief valve 1 (617x800).jpg


Sealion relief valve 2 (617x800).jpg
 
Hello Peter that is excellent I will study in detail your photos and thanks for the input, I seem to have been on the same wavelength re: lubing the top end, I had the idea to extend a line from the central main crankshaft union towards the flywheel end and enter through the rear camshaft bushing with some kind of metering valve, but had not put more thought into it than that kind of adlib from that point, I notice you extender the oil and water bodies outward, wish I had thought of that,

I was going to use a solid rod for the rocker shaft, as I write this I get a vision I have some stainless steel tubing hiding in the shop I will have to take a look,

I also notice what looks like round inspection plates on the oil and water pumps?, are they for some kind of adjustment?,

While you are at the top end some trivia, the lower outside foot surface of my rockers interfere with a formed acrylic rocker cover I had vacuumed so when I machined the dovetail for location of the acrylic cover they are to close, just something to watch when you get to that part, I also found some discrepancy in centre dims for the gear train, and make sure you have the head gasket made and included when finalizing the gears, the small pin across the oil pump and skew gear should be considered the drawings do not allow for removal unless a mod is thought up,

Hope that helps you,......Edmund.........Alberta
 
Back
Top