Jerry Howell's Radiator

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Edmund
Beautiful work on that rad. I don’t know about you but I think my blood pressure went up just thinking about drilling those holes.
:bow:
 
Hi Edmund,
I built a rad of Jerry's design for my Holt engine and while it works if I had it to do over I would drill the inner holes much larger for more water capacity and make the fins a little shallower. As long as one has a method of accurately spacing the fins it is an easier method than assembling fins and tubes as I have done on other rads.
Thanks for posting.
gbritnell
 
Edmund
Beautiful work on that rad. I don’t know about you but I think my blood pressure went up just thinking about drilling those holes.
:bow:

Hello Bob,
thank you, re blood pressure, by the time I had 8 good cores, I also had a few not good enough, almost like development stages so to speak, so I used them to test before attacking the real thing, even so at the start of drilling the first of the eight the thoughts were god help if I have a scrapper I have no more material, lucky for me it all went well,

.........Edmund.........Alberta
 
Hi Edmund,
I built a rad of Jerry's design for my Holt engine and while it works if I had it to do over I would drill the inner holes much larger for more water capacity and make the fins a little shallower. As long as one has a method of accurately spacing the fins it is an easier method than assembling fins and tubes as I have done on other rads.
Thanks for posting.
gbritnell


Thank you George,
your suggestion is duly noted, although I'm afraid its a bit too late coming, as I don't think I will ever need another one, unless this one fails, a bit of trivia, Mr Westbury never designed a rad for the Sealion hence my search for ideas for one, I had thought about making fins and soldering to squashed tubes but from other experiences in soldering it would be messy as my hands are not steady anymore, that,s when I came upon yours on the straight four and Jerry's design, now for authenticity my preference was your rad but I decided time was of the essence and decided on Jerry's because of machining capabilities (it being easier) as apposed to a more hands on approach with yours,

But you really did not lose out in the end, your complete set of pictures of your four cylinder with the Ford Radiator are revolving around on my screensaver full screen,

I would like to thank both yourself and Bob for showing an interest,

..........Edmund............Alberta
 
Edmund

I love watching your videos and hope to see many more, can't wait to see how it comes together.

Thank you
Mark
 
Edmund

I love watching your videos and hope to see many more, can't wait to see how it comes together.

Thank you
Mark

Mark,
thank you for that uplifting response, and just in case you haven't seen my update a short video on youtube a little by little and it gets there in the end

http://youtu.be/hYOP9M1crSs

..............Edmund............Alberta
 
More progress on the Sealion Radiator,

........Edmund.........Alberta

IMG_0295.JPG
 
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Wow. Edmund you can’t put that on an engine it’ll get dirty. If I built a rad that looked like that I’d mount it on a wood plaque and keep in the living room.
Might have to check out the living room part with my wife.:big:
 
The rad is coming along excellent Edmund.
gbritnell
 
Bob thanks, your not doing to bad yourself, just viewed a few posts on your Webster, its looking very good indeed,

Re the living room, I'm pretty lucky I have a wife who sometimes stands at the mill with a little coolant brush dabbing the chips away when I cnc a part, in fact she has told me I have to get this Sealion finished before I croak it,

...........Edmund.........Alberta
 
Thanks for checking in. I need to think of a way to but a rad on it scratch.gif
That’s funny, my wife thinks the Mill is just boring and noisy but is fascinated by the lathe.
 
I love this, its an inspiration, thank you Edmund :)

Mark
Mark,
Thank you for your post, its very rewarding feeling you are helping someone in some way, I'm glad you are getting something from my posts about the build on the radiator,

Trivia, I read your post about measuring internal bores, I did a lot of Jig boring 50 years ago and most of the time I used simple internal spring calipers together with made up no/go plug gauges, its amazing how accurate they can measure a bore once you get the feel, its really the same principal as using telescopic bore gauges, so if you see a well known brand Starrett, Moore and Right, ect ect used on eBay, mine are 3 inch and plenty sufficient, and using them they will definitely hone your skills at the same times

If you do buy you need the round type arms,

To illustrate ........http://www.starrett.com/metrology/m...urrentPage=1&displayMode=grid&sortBy=none/asc

Part #274-3

......Edmund......Alberta
 
Edmund, that is a very nice looking radiator. It has an old time industrial or stationary engine look to it.

Regards,

Chuck

Chuck, Although it never occurred to me, your post does make sense, I have been to a few agricultural steam events and remember a long line of old heavy duty trucks with chains driving the rear wheels, I believe they were Foden, (not sure about that) even today on some of the new trucks the rad has that same look,

Thanks for posting.....Edmund......Albeta
 
Hello Edmund,
Your radiator work of the Jerry Howell radiator for your ETW Sea Lion engine shows excellent workmanship and looks great.

It so happened that I myself am in the process of building two ETW Sea Lions. Besides that, it seems that the two of us share quite a few similarities:

I am of your age.
I have been working on the Sea Lions for now 9 years and time tells me to finish them.
I am married and my wife encourages me to spend time working on the engines as well (I suspect for her own peace and quiet).

With that, I guess we are sharing a seat in the same boat.

I also discovered the Jerry Howell radiator design a while ago and decided to shamelessly copy the idea and implement it with some changes in my own build. The changes I made resulted in a continuous single pass heat exchanger with a total length of 24 inches by effectively looping the coolant back and forth passing only once through all the 6 finned 1/2 inch square tubes. The bore of the tubes is ~ 3/16 (5.0 MM) wall thickness is 1/16 (1.5 MM) The finned tubes in my case are aluminum for better heat transfer using O-rings at the ends for sealing. Top and bottom header is brass. The radiator inlet and outlet is equipped with 1/8" thermocouple to find out the cooling effectiveness. The assembly is put together using Allen head screws and is easily disassembled if needed. No soldering or epoxy glue.

I put a few pictures in below showing the current state of affairs in the build of my engines. I still have quite a bit of work to do on the engine internals since in my style of working I am working kind of backwards, for instance getting the ignition working before tackling the engine guts. For the ignition, I am using the Jerry Howell TIM 6 with a Hall effect sensor. Rigged up the distributor and the four spark plugs for driving with a drill and fired it up. All worked well with decent sparks and no Hall sensor failure while spinning for 5 to 6 minutes but we will see how it goes when the spark plugs fire under compression.

Also copied Jerry Howell's idea of the oil pressure adjustment. Added a small oil sump under the original ETW sump that hides the pressure regulator and also has a 1/8" temperature sensor for measuring the oil temperature. Besides pressure lubing the crankshaft, I also pressure lubricate the 3 camshaft bearings and the valve rockers bushings via the 3/16" hollow 1/16" bored rocker shaft.

Here are some pictures. Apology for the low quality - they were take with an I-Phone. My digital camera battery gave up on me.

Peter J.

Sealion  (3) (480x640).jpg


Sealion  (9) (480x640).jpg


Sealion  (640x480).jpg


Sealion  (1) (640x477).jpg


Sealion  (2) (640x480).jpg


Sealion  (4) (640x480).jpg


Sealion  (6) (480x640).jpg


Sealion  (7) (640x480).jpg


Sealion  (8) (480x640).jpg


Sealion  (5) (640x480).jpg
 
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