Howell V-Twin

[Cogsy]

I plan to cut them to the circumference plus the gap rather than cut them to the cylinder diameter and split them.

If I understand this correctly you plan on making the rings oversize so you can remove the section where the split is, rather than split and spread? If you do this then your rings will be out of round once you compress them into the bore and you'll have the same issue you have now.

I make mine by cutting them to the bore size, splitting them and inserting a wedge into the gap to spread them. Then place them on a body washer held in the vice jaws and heat the whole lot to uniform cherry red, hold it for 60 seconds then let cool naturally. I don't get perfect sealing straight away, but enough compression to run, then they bed in after 10 minutes or so of running and compression is good.

 

[Piston_Broke]

Thanks, Al. I posted that after I read an article in MEB on the subject but yesterday evening I cut new rings and decided to turn them to bore size. It's interesting to hear the arguments for each method of making rings, it's all about perspective it seems. Anyway I am going to make a fixture to clamp them following the "Trimble Method". The drawing calls for a .150" gap, I'm going to just use 5/32" so I don't have to order anything special. I hope to post more pictures soon.


Cheers!

 

[Rustkolector]

Piston_Broke
For future reference you must really clean your metal surfaces prior to any plating. By that I mean a pickle like citric acid (canning section of food market) which is cheaper and just as effective as sulfuric acid. Wire brush parts to make sure all oxide has been removed and pickle again. Then you have to scrub the parts in a warm detergent solution with a brush until the rinse water sheets off the parts. If any water beads on the surfaces, it isn't clean enough for plating. Once absolutely clean, rinse in distilled water and gently blow dry. Do not touch any parts to be plated with your bare fingers after the pickle. Use rubber or nitrile gloves.

You have a lot of nice work done so far. Don't be tempted to try any of those rings that show even the slightest light on their circumference like your photo. You will be disappointed. Use the link in Jerry's plans to make your rings. This method requires some additional work, but the results are worth it. Lap the top and bottom ring surfaces on a flat surface to a nice sheen, and to adjust your ring side clearance in the piston grooves to .0005". Gap to be .002" - .003". Also, use a brake bleeder vacuum pump (Harbor Freight) to check your valve seats for leakage. You should be able to pump them down to 25" of Hg and then see only a very slow leak down. No leak down is even better. You need good fitting valve guides and oil them with #30 wt oil for sealing the guides during testing. Good fitting piston rings and valves solve a multitude of perceived new engine starting issues.
Jeff

 

[geo]

How did you go fitting the cm-6 spark plugs ?
I can cut a couple of fins as per drawing still difficult to get a socket on the plug
Trying to source a 10 mm hex but the electrode lengths are to long on the k series plugs . Looking good as a door stop.

 

[Piston_Broke]

Well, it's been a while since I worked on the engine. I've been traveling for work quite a bit last winter and this spring/summer so I'm getting the itch to finish this! I ended up getting my details professionally nickel plated, my attempts were just causing me headaches. It was well worth $110. I have virtually all the parts done and am in the semi final build stage. Still need to finish the base and make a fuel tank. I'm just happy to be into it again, trying to remember where I left off. Cheers!

 

[kuhncw]

Jon,

Beautiful work!

I hope to see you and your Vee Twin at NAMES 2019.

Regards,

Chuck Kuhn

 

[johnmcc69]

Good to see you back at it. Nice fit & finish, looking great.

John

 

[Piston_Broke]

It's been quite some time since my last post! I'm very happy to say I've had the engine running, well, at least one cylinder. I had carburetor issues on one side. After doing some cleanup work to both carbs I tried another trial run. My next issue is that my fuel pump no longer works. I bought a small pump meant for Nitro engines, it is not compatible with gasoline however. So, any recommendations on a small, inexpensive fuel pump that works for gasoline?

 

[Piston_Broke]

Prior to the first bench test. (I can't get the photo to load)

 

[kuhncw]

Jon,

Good to see you back. Good luck on the final bits to get your V2 running.

Chuck Kuhn

 

[Piston_Broke]

 

[Peter Twissell]

For the nickel plating: I have used a Caswell kit for plating numerous and quite large motorcycle parts. I used the electroless process, which gives nice, consistent results provided the instructions are followed and the chemicals topped up appropriately after each part is plated.

 

[awake]

That's a beautiful engine!

 

[Piston_Broke]

Jon,

Good to see you back. Good luck on the final bits to get your V2 running.

Chuck Kuhn

I hope you are well, Chuck! Bummed we are missing NAMES this year but looking forward to next year already! Cheers!

 

[Piston_Broke]

Any advice on a 12V gasoline fuel pump for this engine would be greatly appreciated. The one I had was for nitro fuel and failed during the second run.

 

[DiegoVV]

I assembled it partially just for fun and to show some friends. We meet for coffee on Sundays, in the summer it is all motorcycles and in the winter, it is show and tell. Cheers!

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Nice work! Very clean. I love the finish in the aluminium parts. What type of blasting media do you use?

Congratulations for such a beautiful machine!

 

[Piston_Broke]

Nice work! Very clean. I love the finish in the aluminium parts. What type of blasting media do you use?

Congratulations for such a beautiful machine!

The aluminum parts are clear anodized. I use sand paper and a Scotch-Brite pad to remove machining marks before I sent them out to be anodized.

 

[bluejets]

Any advice on a 12V gasoline fuel pump for this engine would be greatly appreciated. The one I had was for nitro fuel and failed during the second run.

If you can still access Perry Pumps, they made a series of pumps to suit gas or alcohol fuels.
Both in the pressure tap operation or the vibration mode where the latter is set at right angles to the crank.

Link here........
Perry Pumps - Pumps

 

[mayhugh1]

Any advice on a 12V gasoline fuel pump for this engine would be greatly appreciated. The one I had was for nitro fuel and failed during the second run.

See post 175:

https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/another-knucklehead-build.27584/page-9#post-318472

 

[bluejets]

See post 175:

https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/another-knucklehead-build.27584/page-9#post-318472

Cannot see that bit of plastic lasting very long.