I am having some issues with a older harbor freight lathe. And was wondering if any one has a better schematic then the one that comes in the book. I have checked grizzly but there's is wired totally different then mine.
Do you mean pushbuttons here? We have a small ENCO lathe at work that was purchased years ago that has had problems with the stop/forward/reverse pushbuttons. If this lathe is of that design then your best bet would be to modernize the controls.Yes I bought the lathe used it never has been the way it was designed. I used to have to hold the first contactor for a few seconds of every use then it would work normal.
I would assume that if you are plugging the lathe in it is a single phase machine. Is that the case?Then one day I plugged it in and the plug was arching.
I unplugged it waited a minute or two tried again no arching but the transformer wasn't making any noise so I ordered a transformer. Well I was waiting for the transformer I took out the first contactor and looked it over so I may have switched a wire I was pretty careful through. Also I am unsure of the new transformer don't put out the voltages that it shows on the out puts.
Do you have a wiring diagram for the lathe?Hello, I hereby raise this thread from the dead!
I have the same lathe and have running issues that seem to be about the same as yours...my green light is on, though. My lathe turns on and the main relay/contactor pulls in, but when I engage the fwd or rev lever, the main relay/contactor pops out. If I push it back in the motor fires up fine...but I have to hold it in. I'm trying to follow the wires and current around their paths, but I'm not sure what voltage I'm supposed to see, and where. I get 28v or so coming out of the transformer and when I go to the back of the switch panel, it goes into the back of the green light where it's at about 18v. The other side of the light is about 6v and that goes on through the inching button and twist power knob. When I twist the power knob, the voltage on the other side of the light drops to 2.2v or so. That 2.2v +- goes through the inching knob, power knob, and back to main relay/contactor. Is the voltage supposed to drop like that? am I losing voltage at the light and not supplying enough for the relay? Doing my best to learn...thanks for any help.
Attempted picture to go along with it..
View attachment 104561
LOL! I think that's the root issue here..crappy electronics. Nothing seems to have ever been changed or replaced, based on photos of other machines I've seen. Can I just change out the two contactors for spindle direction and the main relay/contactor, along with the thermal switch with new hardware that have the same specs? Here's the other question...can I just bypass all of it and use a drum switch? Or will that cause issues with the motor? It's single phase 220v dual capacitor 2hp.Do you have a wiring diagram for the lathe?
The wiring diagram is awful...it's only found online and is illegible...it's similar to grizzly, enco, etc...but just different enough.
By the way what do you mean by the "relay/contactor pops out". If you are talking about an overload button on the contactor then there are a number of possibilities. One could be that the overload mechanism is malfunctioning. The second is that the motor is actually running in an overloaded condition. A third, if the contactor is adjustable, would be that it is set wrong. That is just the contactor there are other possibilities here.
I meant the contactor goes from energized to de-energized when spindle switch is chosen. I don't believe the contactor is adjustable....
One external possibility is that the contactor is simply dropping out, that is being turned off. This could be caused by a number of things from loose connections to the machine just sitting on a limit switch that actuates when you engage. By the way what do you mean by fed/rev here, is that spindle or Z saddle movement.
Maybe that's the term, dropping out, when it de-energizes? Sorry, forward or reverse of the spindle, is what I meant. From the lever on the saddle that switches the rotational direction of the motor.
On some or the Chinese machines I've worked on, the electrical system and components can often be described as crap. I don't know the specifics of this machine so you may have perfectly fine hardware. IF not I'd seriously consider upgrading all of the machines electrical components. The Chinese seem to have issues with getting proper reliability out of simple stuff like pushbuttons.
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