Frisco Standard

Home Model Engine Machinist Forum

Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

seadragonfoundry

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2012
Messages
65
Reaction score
67
Just finished this Frisco Standard, an interesting engine to build. Castings from Shelf Pet Models,I didn't bother with the igniters.



Hopefully you can view it drom here.
https://youtu.be/BtMYJ7hfYdI

IMG_3083.jpg


IMG_3079.jpg


IMG_3082.jpg
 
Very nice looking and an exceptionally good running engine. Could you tell me how the connecting rod bushings are lubricated?
Jeff
 
Hello Jeff, thanks to all for your kind comments. The con rod bearings have grease cap lubricators fitted,it was trial and error as the space to fit them is quite limited. It will idle down to 300 RPM, it has run for about 20 hours. there was a marked difference at about the 10 hour mark as the engine bedded in. Ignition is from Roy Sholl at S/S Machine and Engineering.
 
Hi
Like I said on youtube, you made a really good job of your engine

I'm building a twin open crank at the moment, its based on a frisco standard and the build is on here, Can you help with some things that are puzzling me?

I am lost in regards how to lubricate the gudgeon pins, how does it work on your engine? I plan to fix the pin to the conrod and let it move in bushes in the piston with the hope that oil from the cylinder walls will make it into the bushes

Is the carb on your engine an"automatic" one?. I dont know if thats the correct terminology,
Anyway, great job

Dougie
 
Hello Doug,,
I have seen your posts and I must express my admiration for what you are doing, it was relatively easy for me, buy the plans and castings and build the engine, you are starting from scratch.The gudgeon pins are secured by 3 mm grub screws to the piston, one each side so the moving contact is between the gudgeon and the con rod. I machined a flat each side of the gudgeon for the grub screw to engage with a small amount of clearance , my theory being that oil may move from the cylinder walls on the down stroke past the grubs screws to lubricate the small end. For the amount of time the engine will run, I don't think it is that critical.
 
Doug,I'm sorry I missed your other question.The carby is a spring loaded mitre valve type a la Centaur. I don't like them. They do work but I feel that the low pressure in the manifold to overcome Spring pressure tends to condense any moisture in the air leading to wet plugs or moisture/ gumming of the piston rings. I feel you need to run the engine until it is hot to overcome this problem and avoid short runs of only a few minutes.. I had the same problem with a Holt I built, especially in winter. That is only my uneducated opinion. You are doing a marvellous job with your engine and I stand in awe of you.
 
Thanks Seadragonfoundry

Thats helped a lot, I have more confidence now my system will work regarding the gudgeon oiling

I was contemplating an automatic carb but your comments have convinced me to stick with a simple venturi / spray bar type
Oh well, back to the back of the envelope so to speak

Thanks again

Dougie
 
Very nice job. I have a fresco that I have tried to get to run on the ingniters but it just runs for short spurts of time. What did you use for spark on your plugs?

Mike
 
Hello Mike,
I used a CDI ignition system from Roy Scholl, I never had a lot of luck with igniters or rather, I lack the skill and determination!
 

Latest posts

Back
Top