Ford's Quadricycle Engine

[Steamchick]

Thanks Jason. Good points. I was in Dearborn a few times during the 1990s, but didn't think I should need to know the details of the quadricycle, though with hindsight... (!?). Thanks for the explanation of the valve gear. It was about what I had guessed... but I didn't know it was to space the firing timing of the 4-stroke engine. Makes good sense.
The "throwback" as you put it, was simply a way to manage the "unknown" side forces by the use of a crosshead and guide. This was at the earliest stages of infernal combustion engines, so reliable "steam" technology was the only known working solution to many problems of geometry and materials commonly in use at the time. Although we commonly use Aluminium today, it was an expensive and rare metal until after WW2 (1940s), so that is certainly a deviation on this model. But looks good anyhow...
I have worked on many pre-1940s old car engines with cast iron pistons. Not a throwback, but the cost-effective technology of the day. Similarly, I machined 10inch diameter crosshead castings into finished parts during the 1960s for Broome-Wade air compressors, that were still available "new". So crossheads should be expected from the 1890s, not a "throwback".

Although some compact marine (Naval) steam engines had con-rods projecting inside the pistons. - c 1870s? I think? - As far as I understand the common arrangement was still to have a crosshead, that H. Ford neatly fitted onto the end of his cylinders. So I think it is good to model this bit of the design correctly. Many of the large industrial Gas engines of the turn of the century used crossheads as well.

But not all? - I am not sure:

Maybe H.F. was simply staying with the "most reliable" design in current use for this part, so he could concentrate on making other parts of his first Automobile that were new and unique?

An interesting viewpoint anyway.
Thanks,
K2

 

[Rdean33422]

Since you are not adverse to use of aluminium,

The connecting rods are made of 5/16" brass rods not because they needed the extra strength above aluminum ones but because I wanted the contrast color of the metals. I didn't think that 1/4" brass rods would strong enough that's why I used 5/16".
The brass rods do weight more than aluminum rods do of the same size and the addition of the brass piston connectors will also add to a vibration issue. Since both pistons run together this issue is doubled. I have reduced that problem some what by having sculpted the rod throws with a large counter weight end.
I know I will have some vibration but I hope it will be minimal.

I would have thought that the esteemed Mt Ford would have used a 90 degree off-set on the crank - or 180degree?

Well he didn't and no one has commented on how he was able to fire each cylinder at the correct time and alternate between them. He has two spark plugs and one ignition source and no distributor so he came up with a novel design to use another arm attached to the rocker arm. This arm is electrically isolated from the rest of the engine and contains two copper strips that act as switches to direct the spark to the correct cylinder.

This point was what drew me into building this engine in the first place. That is the main thing I want to share with others while building this model but it has to look good too. The highly technical side of the components and materials are not high on my list. This is not a scale model of the engine but rather one that looks about right and conveys the main features of the engine.

Going too thick with a conrod usually starts to cause problems with it touching the end of the cylinder.

I originally thought I would have to do something similar but was waiting to see how things would actually fit together before milling a recess in the ends of the cylinders. As it turned out I only needed to chamfer the ends.

Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[Rdean33422]

As far as I understand the common arrangement was still to have a crosshead, that H. Ford neatly fitted onto the end of his cylinders. So I think it is good to model this bit of the design correctly.

I am confused this engine did not have a crosshead.

Ray

 

[Steamchick]

Thanks Ray. Sorry, I thought the shaped end of the cylinder housed a crosshead. Or I misunderstood Jason's "Throwback" comment?
Excuse me for being a "nonce". (= Knows nothing, criticises everything...).
I understand your aesthetic view for using the brass.
What scale is your engine? What was the original con-rod diameter? What bore and stroke was Henry's engine?
I love to know more to understand the various ideas. I like the redundant spark idea with a lever distributor. But when you say it doesn't have a distributor, does the lever switch the low voltage or high voltage of spark energy to the alternate cylinders? Did I read that it has a buzz coil for spark ignition?
Keep up the good work. My search for information on giggle failed to find anything technical about the Quadricycle.
K2

 

[Richard Hed]

Thanks Ray. Sorry, I thought the shaped end of the cylinder housed a crosshead. Or I misunderstood Jason's "Throwback" comment?
Excuse me for being a "nonce". (= Knows nothing, criticises everything...).
I understand your aesthetic view for using the brass.
What scale is your engine? What was the original con-rod diameter? What bore and stroke was Henry's engine?
I love to know more to understand the various ideas. I like the redundant spark idea with a lever distributor. But when you say it doesn't have a distributor, does the lever switch the low voltage or high voltage of spark energy to the alternate cylinders? Did I read that it has a buzz coil for spark ignition?
Keep up the good work. My search for information on giggle failed to find anything technical about the Quadricycle.
K2

Oh, a new word: Nonce. I like it so much I thimpfks I'll become one. LOL

 

[Steamchick]

Richard, You know me. I have been perfecting that characteristic for decades. More years of practice than I can remember! But I have become an expert Nonce with old age. (I call it "old age" as I take what my Daughter calls "nanny naps", daily, after lunch! At "37" I am not really old, just practicing!).

K2

 

[Jasonb]

He did not use a redundant or "waste" spark. In a similar way to how the rocker arrangement opened alternate exhaust valves a similar one connected the ignition to each cylinder in turn, think of it like a rocking rather than rotating distributor. If you look at the photo in the first post the wooden board across the back is the insulated rocker and the two electrical contacts stand up from that.

If you look at the engine he basically made it from two lengths of pipe with a flange at the end to screw the head to, a jacket welded around the main part of the cylinder then another flange and then the tube extended further which helped guide the bottom end of the piston. beyond that the side of the tube was cut away in a very similar style to many US steam engines and similar to our Tangye style and at the end of that was the bearing housing. It is the throwback to that sort of style engine I was talking about

https://libwww.freelibrary.org/digital/item/zoom/53507



Ray's model is inspired by the Ford not any particular scale or match. Sometimes we just build for the enjoyment and don't get overly technical and just use what we have to hand.

 

[Rdean33422]

Ray's model is inspired by the Ford not any particular scale or match. Sometimes we just build for the enjoyment and don't get overly technical and just use what we have to hand.

Thanks Jason I couldn't have said it better.

Ray

 

[Steamchick]

Thanks Jason. Very helpful to see the parts - especially the cylinders.
As most of my stuff is "non-scaling" I fully understand, but I do like to check a few things to see what "scale" parts would be capable of achieving. If it is 1cc or 10ccs displacement it can make a difference to how it can run, when the original is 1000ccs!
A late engineer friend made incredibly small engines - using 0.020in piano wire for push-rods 2 in long. He also repaired clocks and watches and worked to tolerances and clearances he only used previously making gauges... (10ths of a thou). His engines defied all technical analysis and worked better than most. He made his own spark plugs, carburettors, etc. because he could not buy small enough items. Then wound his own coils to make them work without flashing over. (Had to do some calculations to get it right first time!). e.g. this "1cc" 4-stroke! - see the spark plug on the RH side. this is about 1in OD of the fins of the cylinder. The battery, coil, etc. are housed inside the base.



Pictures rarely show how big or small something is without a reference. Hence I would like to know more about Ray's engine. It has more interesting features than are seen at first viewing the photos.
K2

 

[Rdean33422]

As I had mentioned many posts back I was not happy with the driven cam gear I had made. It is a good gear and quite usable but on a different engine not on this engine.
I started with a piece of 2.5" aluminum round and cut it down to 2.200 the size needed for the OD of the gear. I then reduced a ledge of 0.650 in width down to 0.375 for the axle that will fit in a needle bearing. The gear was then parted off leaving a 0.250 width for the teeth.


The teeth were cut on a rotary table using a Mod 1 cutter.


Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[Rdean33422]

These are the parts for the driven gear and the side plate.


I added the push/pull connector to the timing gear and installed on the engine.


A close view.


This timing gear and push/pull rod were a major concern for me.
Way back when I mounted the cylinders they should have been further apart to allow more room at the flywheel end but all's well that ends well.

Thanks for looking
Ray

 

[Scott_M]

Hi Ray
I have been following along with great interest ! And boy do you work fast.
Not sure how much load that push/pull rod will put on the driven gear but I fear that needle bearing will eat up the aluminum shaft it rides on. I have used those bearing a lot on different projects and even with a mild load they will burnish plain drill rod to the point of flaking. And that is very low speed. I have always had to use hardened steel with them.
Again not sure what kind of load it will see, but I would keep an eye on it.

Great work as always!

Thanks for your detailed posts, I always enjoy them.

Scott

 

[Rdean33422]

Thanks Scott I am also concerned about that issue but I didn't have any brass large enough. If it does give a problem I can remake it easily now that I have sample to go by.

Ray

 

[Jasonb]

You could possibly take a 0.040" off the stub shaft of the gear and loctite a hardend drill rod sleeve over it. Or as that may make the stub a bit thin bore out the gear and fit a hardened drill rod shaft in it's place, push fit and Loctite should do.

 

[Rdean33422]

Yes there are several options if it gives trouble.
I don't have any past experience with an aluminum shaft in a needle bearing so we will just have to see how it works.
Ray

 

[Scott_M]

I have used dowel pins with good success, and they are only a couple of bucks. That is if the loctite and press fit will hold up.
Here is a screen grab from McMaster Carr. I chose this length because you could get a qty. of 1. 50C rockwell