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The small parts take longer than the big parts. Two parts plus drill and tap the crank-web took me about 6 hours today. It didn't help that I had to make the crank pin twice. :wall:
Crank Pin. 10-32 outside thread, 4-40 inside. The whole thing is about 6mm long. I can barely see to work on it even with my magnifier glasses. I made the whole part then installed in on the crank. If I had to do it again, I'd make the 10-32 threaded end, install it, put the crankshaft in the 4-jaw, offset it, and turn down the rest of the crank pin there. Would be much easier to hang onto and would be better aligned with the crankshaft.
Crank Pin installed. I hope it's square enough because I don't look forward to making another:
Crank Pin screw. The macro setting on the camera works too well--you can see all the defects:
All of it put together. It's amazing how well that little bearing works:
Crank Pin. 10-32 outside thread, 4-40 inside. The whole thing is about 6mm long. I can barely see to work on it even with my magnifier glasses. I made the whole part then installed in on the crank. If I had to do it again, I'd make the 10-32 threaded end, install it, put the crankshaft in the 4-jaw, offset it, and turn down the rest of the crank pin there. Would be much easier to hang onto and would be better aligned with the crankshaft.
Crank Pin installed. I hope it's square enough because I don't look forward to making another:
Crank Pin screw. The macro setting on the camera works too well--you can see all the defects:
All of it put together. It's amazing how well that little bearing works:
Bearing support. Two pieces fly-cut to thickness then super-glued together. Rough layout then center-drilled for the bearing pocket:
One done--poorly. I hate boring on the mill compared to the lathe. Too many start/stop/measure/adjust. And it went from no fit to drops right in. There is no slop but it's not a good press fit I wanted. Either I'll put a couple dimples in the sidewall with a punch or a drop of loctite.
Flipped over, re-located the other hole with my co-ax and bored another bearing pocket--poorly. Drilled some decorative holes. The Mickey Mouse ears at the top will end up being small scallops at the top of the support. In my defense--these are the first two bearing pockets I've ever done on the mill.
More tomorrow.
One done--poorly. I hate boring on the mill compared to the lathe. Too many start/stop/measure/adjust. And it went from no fit to drops right in. There is no slop but it's not a good press fit I wanted. Either I'll put a couple dimples in the sidewall with a punch or a drop of loctite.
Flipped over, re-located the other hole with my co-ax and bored another bearing pocket--poorly. Drilled some decorative holes. The Mickey Mouse ears at the top will end up being small scallops at the top of the support. In my defense--these are the first two bearing pockets I've ever done on the mill.
More tomorrow.
Bearing supports done. Got a nasty scratch in one when I was roughing out the final shape on the bandsaw. And a minor catastrophe. I snapped the end off a center drill in the last mounting hole. Luckily it's a thru-hole so I was able to drill from the other side.
Although these are made pretty much to plan width- and depth-wise, I still get some rubbing from the flywheel. I guess 1mm clearance is not enough for my not-so accurate machining. I'll need a few spacers between the flywheel hub and the bearings to compensate.
Although these are made pretty much to plan width- and depth-wise, I still get some rubbing from the flywheel. I guess 1mm clearance is not enough for my not-so accurate machining. I'll need a few spacers between the flywheel hub and the bearings to compensate.
They look very similar to mine! I didn't bother with the mounting lugs though, wanted to make it as simple as possible, then I decided it looked too plain and added decorative holes and scallops! I've learnt something from yours though, as I tried to just plunge with a slot drill to do the scallops and it always ended up moving, better idea to drill the hole and mill away like you did.
I had the same trouble with getting the good fit on the bearings, I used much smaller ones anyway but I don't have a boring head so I just used an end mill and plunged but it ended up too big, as you say a couple of centre pop marks to make it grab and a bit of loctite worked fine. Actually, I remember getting too much of a press fit on one of the bearings and it must have been enough to squeeze the bearing which prevented it from rotating so there's something to be said for a sliding fit.
On my crank pin I left quite a bit of play side to side and on the diameter to allow for out of squareness and glad I did - at the model engineering exhibition a chap brought over his engine which he'd made to a much better standard than mine but when I was helping him trouble shoot one of the things I pointed out was that his was actually too accurate, the good fit he'd produced actually caused a very slight amount of binding and it only takes the tiniest amount of excess friction to stop these things running. The other thing was on his valve, there is meant to be quite a big clearance between it and the pushrod, his was a nice fit but you need some slop in it!
Nice work, can't be far off now! :bow:
Nick
I had the same trouble with getting the good fit on the bearings, I used much smaller ones anyway but I don't have a boring head so I just used an end mill and plunged but it ended up too big, as you say a couple of centre pop marks to make it grab and a bit of loctite worked fine. Actually, I remember getting too much of a press fit on one of the bearings and it must have been enough to squeeze the bearing which prevented it from rotating so there's something to be said for a sliding fit.
On my crank pin I left quite a bit of play side to side and on the diameter to allow for out of squareness and glad I did - at the model engineering exhibition a chap brought over his engine which he'd made to a much better standard than mine but when I was helping him trouble shoot one of the things I pointed out was that his was actually too accurate, the good fit he'd produced actually caused a very slight amount of binding and it only takes the tiniest amount of excess friction to stop these things running. The other thing was on his valve, there is meant to be quite a big clearance between it and the pushrod, his was a nice fit but you need some slop in it!
Nice work, can't be far off now! :bow:
Nick
Your bearing supports look good Mike, I wish I'd done them like that now! I wouldn't worry about the bearing fit too much, I don't believe it's too critical in the scheme of things. Where is the flywheel rubbing?
Vic.
Vic.
Nick, Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Sorry for copying your design--but there's only so many ways to make these things. :big: Doing it this way is easier than makeing shorter supports and then turning 4 legs for it. I think I'll make some sort of bracket instead of legs for the cyl too--just to be different.
Vic, If I set them up with the "side the bearing presses in from" towards the flywheel, I think they'll work but the clearance is minimal. The other way around the wheel rubs on the supports. But I kinda like the mechanical look with the bearings showing on the outside so I think I'll make up some tiny spacers.
Carkwi, don't know the weight. It's not to plan 'cause I didn't have the right size materials. And I'm not sure you'd want to copy a non-finished, non-running version anyway. Ask again after I get it running.
Vic, If I set them up with the "side the bearing presses in from" towards the flywheel, I think they'll work but the clearance is minimal. The other way around the wheel rubs on the supports. But I kinda like the mechanical look with the bearings showing on the outside so I think I'll make up some tiny spacers.
Carkwi, don't know the weight. It's not to plan 'cause I didn't have the right size materials. And I'm not sure you'd want to copy a non-finished, non-running version anyway. Ask again after I get it running.
No no, sorry, I didn't mean it to sound like that! You're right, that's the only thing I could really think of too, couldn't be bothered with making all the fancy turned columns and cut outs in the side etc. Also, there was more room for error that way! If you look at mine compared to Bogstandard's you can see mine are very similar to his too!
I liked the bearings showing also!
Doing great ... :bow:
I liked the bearings showing also!
Doing great ... :bow:
Nick,
Mine was made to see if it would run, so was only very basically built.
Sometime soon, it will be getting a complete facelift, and only the cylinders and other major bits will remain, everything else will be 'blinged up'.
I mentioned this the other day, as long as the major parts and positions are kept to plan, everything else can be whatever your imagination can come up with.
That is what makes us all individuals, we all make the same engines, but none seem to look exactly like what has gone before.
John
Mine was made to see if it would run, so was only very basically built.
Sometime soon, it will be getting a complete facelift, and only the cylinders and other major bits will remain, everything else will be 'blinged up'.
I mentioned this the other day, as long as the major parts and positions are kept to plan, everything else can be whatever your imagination can come up with.
That is what makes us all individuals, we all make the same engines, but none seem to look exactly like what has gone before.
John
Spacers. Made two 1mm thick and two 2mm thick spacers. What a pain. I don't know how guys work with stuff this small all the time.:
Cyl support almost done:
Cyl Support done. I copied the decorative holes from the flywheel supports:
The next project will be the base. Measuring everthing and laying out all the holes will take a while as I've drifted from the plans somewhat. The important stuff I tried to stick too as close as possible--the other's, not so much. I'll lay it out in DeltaCad, my used-bookstore find of a 2-D cad program that cost all of $8.00 about 10 years ago. It still works!
Cyl support almost done:
Cyl Support done. I copied the decorative holes from the flywheel supports:
The next project will be the base. Measuring everthing and laying out all the holes will take a while as I've drifted from the plans somewhat. The important stuff I tried to stick too as close as possible--the other's, not so much. I'll lay it out in DeltaCad, my used-bookstore find of a 2-D cad program that cost all of $8.00 about 10 years ago. It still works!
zeeprogrammer
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That is sharp looking. Beautiful and elegant.
Just one thing Mike,
You baseplate is going to get hot real quick. Even using the normal thin standards for the cylinder, after ten minutes running, the baseplate is too hot to hold.
If you have trouble getting the engine to start, the first thing would be to reduce the contact areas. I found the engine has to be fairly hot to even start to pop.
Bogs
You baseplate is going to get hot real quick. Even using the normal thin standards for the cylinder, after ten minutes running, the baseplate is too hot to hold.
If you have trouble getting the engine to start, the first thing would be to reduce the contact areas. I found the engine has to be fairly hot to even start to pop.
Bogs
Worked on the base today. DeltaCad to the rescue. I took it all apart and spent 1.5 hours with my mic and caliper measuring and laying out for SIX freekin' holes. But they have to be close to perfect to line up everything and cut down on friction. This is the result:
I printed it out to scale and lined up the parts just to make sure:
Time for the base itself. 6" x 3-1/4"--roughly. Stock was too long for my 4x6 bandsaw so a little enjunearing was needed:
Squaring everything up. Saw this trick of using 1-2-3 blocks to support parts too big for the vise:
Flycut, dykem, scribed, then drilling:
Polished the base with some wet-dry on the surface-plate. The mirror finish looks better on film than up close. There are still lots of scratches--some from my heavy-handed scribing.
Looks good don't it?
I need to make a burner. Nothing handy--I scrounged everywhere around the house. It's almost done. I couldn't resist--I had to try something. So I got one of my wife's alcohol room-freshener lamps. It's the size of a grapefruit and way too unwieldy to get the flame close enough. BUT...it did show signs of life once. I was stoked...And now it smells nice too.
Then while talking to my brother on the phone--he suggested a butane lighter--like for starting
up the fireplace. Well, I just happened to have one handy...AND GUESS WHAT? It's a RUNNER!!!
Absolutely amazing. I cannot be happier. Click below for video:
SAAAAA-WEEEEEETTTTT! It's gonna be so much better with a real burner and some polishing here and there!
I printed it out to scale and lined up the parts just to make sure:
Time for the base itself. 6" x 3-1/4"--roughly. Stock was too long for my 4x6 bandsaw so a little enjunearing was needed:
Squaring everything up. Saw this trick of using 1-2-3 blocks to support parts too big for the vise:
Flycut, dykem, scribed, then drilling:
Polished the base with some wet-dry on the surface-plate. The mirror finish looks better on film than up close. There are still lots of scratches--some from my heavy-handed scribing.
Looks good don't it?
I need to make a burner. Nothing handy--I scrounged everywhere around the house. It's almost done. I couldn't resist--I had to try something. So I got one of my wife's alcohol room-freshener lamps. It's the size of a grapefruit and way too unwieldy to get the flame close enough. BUT...it did show signs of life once. I was stoked...And now it smells nice too.
Then while talking to my brother on the phone--he suggested a butane lighter--like for starting
up the fireplace. Well, I just happened to have one handy...AND GUESS WHAT? It's a RUNNER!!!
Absolutely amazing. I cannot be happier. Click below for video:
SAAAAA-WEEEEEETTTTT! It's gonna be so much better with a real burner and some polishing here and there!
