fittings for 1/16" or 3/32" copper tubing

[cfellows]

Hey Stuart, got any pictures?

Thx... Chuck

 

[lordedmond]

I will try and sort some out when I make the next batch

but I may be able to get some pic of the completed ones


Stuart

 

[shred]

I'd guess that the leftover cone from drilling the hole for tapping would probably be sufficient on the nut side, though you might want to try and match the angles in high-pressure situations.

 

[cfellows]

I'd guess that the leftover cone from drilling the hole for tapping would probably be sufficient on the nut side, though you might want to try and match the angles in high-pressure situations.

Shred, could you elaborate? Not sure what you are saying here...

 

[Blogwitch]

Chuck,

In all the flaring tools I have ever used, they were never just a cone shape.

Usually they had three or four flats on the cone, like an upside down pyramid with rounded corners.

It was to do with gently stretching the metal, rather than just deforming it in one go. They would even flare stainless tubing beautifully. You would feed in a little, then turn the former, feed in a bit more and turn again until you had the flare perfectly formed. I am sure it has something to do with not putting too much stress into the flare to a point where it would split.

I am sure a few of the aircraft lads on here have done a fair few flares in their time, flared joints were standard hydraulic practice on aircraft.


John

 

[Dan Rowe]

Chuck,
I think Shred is talking about the union nut for the flared tube. It seams to me that a counter sink with the same angle as the one to drill the inital hole in the forming plates would work fine.

That is most likely the plan you were going to use. I think that a set of pins fixed on one side would make the forming plates line up and simpler to put in the vice.

Nice work I like the idea and it is in my mental sketch book.

Dan

 

[Dan Rowe]

John,
I have never seen the tool you are refering to but I think I am following the concept.

The best type of flair tool I have ever used it the one made by Rigid. Here is a cataloge quote about the key feature of the design:

"Hardened steel flaring cone, eccentrically mounted in needle bearings, produces rolling action for even metal flow, giving uniform flare walls without galling."

This is the tool I bought for my shop.
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/458R-Ratchet-Flaring-Tool/EN/index.htm

Dan

 

[Blogwitch]

Sorry Chuck about doing a bit of hijacking, but this is just to show Dan what I am on about.

If you see the real rough C-o-C at the bottom, it should roughly explain what I was on about.

I suppose, the rolling action of the one you showed does the same as the spreading action of my flairing tip. Gently rolling and spreading the material to prevent stress cracks.


John

 

[shred]

Chuck,
I think Shred is talking about the union nut for the flared tube. It seams to me that a counter sink with the same angle as the one to drill the inital hole in the forming plates would work fine.

Yeah, I was thinking that the remnant of the hole-forming prior to tapping would have a coned end were it drilled (see C-O-C). An appropriately-sized center drill would provide the nicest angle, but might not be easily obtainable.

 

[cfellows]

Sorry Chuck about doing a bit of hijacking, but this is just to show Dan what I am on about.

If you see the real rough C-o-C at the bottom, it should roughly explain what I was on about.

I suppose, the rolling action of the one you showed does the same as the spreading action of my flairing tip. Gently rolling and spreading the material to prevent stress cracks.


John

Thanks, John, doesn't look like it would be too hard to make something like that. Actually, I could probably just mill some shallow flats on the pointed tool I used and get the same affect. When I tapered the tube shown further down this thread, it was done with the drill press turning on it's slowest spped.

Chuck

 

[jirik92]

I have used similar princip a few years ago (see my pages http://www.steamer.cz/par_fit.html). But while years I have problem - pipes damaged while many times join was assembled/dissassembled. I returned to other princip - soldered conus on pipe- see picture.
Regards, Jiri

 

[shred]

I have used similar princip a few years ago (see my pages http://www.steamer.cz/par_fit.html). But while years I have problem - pipes damaged while many times join was assembled/dissassembled. I returned to other princip - soldered conus on pipe- see picture.
Regards, Jiri

Nice idea! One more for the notebook. Looks pretty easy to manufacture as well. Thanks