file cleaning

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I've seen two tips in old Pop Mechanics issues, one was about flattening the end of soft copper tube and scraping like a spatula and the other, more sensible to me, is using a chunk of bamboo, again as a scraper- great use of that cooking set of spoons, paddles, etc. I got at the dollar store for a 6 piece ensemble. The copper tube trick was actually mandated for cleaning burner tips while I was in the Navy- nasty job that, soaking in JP5 then scrub, return to pot, soak, scrub etc.
 
""When it comes to file cleaning- and this is where the poster started( I think) the files are best treated in dilute sulphuric acid passing an electric current through them. ""

And if this is written in code or something that cannot be understood- TELL ME.

""Well I realy need info on this one "dilute sulphuric acid passing current" can you elaborate please
thanks""

"Washing Soda" is an alternative to sulphuric acid. Cleaning use 12 volt battery charger with the file connected to - negative terminal.

Do this with the file suspended in the "Washing Soda" solution of 1/2 cup of crystals to one gallon of warm water stir until dissolved.

Use a plastic bucket for the process. Use a piece of steel NOT Stainless for the + Positive electrode

Check progress every 2 to 4 hours And wash the file in running water and a wire brush.

You can "Sharpen" read as Erode the the the file with the file connected to the + positive terminal.

Results vary a lot depending on the strength of the solution the size of the file the size of the electrode (Lump of Steel) Time and the amount of power used.

DO NOT do this process in an ENCLOSED SPACE The fumes are CORROSIVE TOXIC and can be EXPLOSIVE.

Take Care the advice is mine the choice to use it is entirely yours.

Eric
 
Just one little point ...

I do my own copper and nickel plating, aluminium and brass etching as well as stripping chrome from parts prior to replating so I have a little experience in transporting metals electrolytically from one item into solution, or onto another item. Although if I have been doing it wrongly for the last 30 years, please feel free to point me in the correct direction.

Metal is dissolved into solution FROM the anode "positive" and deposited ONTO the cathode "negative". So if you attach your file to the cathode "negative" electrolytic transfer into the solution won't work.

As I mentioned before, different metals are dissolved by different solvents and while aluminium is very soluable (without electricity) in a caustic (alkaline) solution, cupric, and ferrous metals do not respond the in same way.

To remove copper alloys electrolytically you can use copper sulphate as an electrolyte, and a steel, or copper washer attached to the cathode "negative" with the anode "positive" attached to your file. This will cause no damage to the file as ferrous metals are insoluable by copper sulphate, but the copper alloy clogging it will be dissolved into the electrolyte and excess copper from the electrolyte will be deposited onto the cathode.

Soda baths won't dissolve, or erode cupric, or ferrous metals, which is a good idea as the finest (sharpest) edges are the first things to disappear when chemical erosion occurs. It can "seem" as though a little erosion actually helps, but this effect is predominantly due to the fact that the offending aluminium alloy has been removed. (Try dropping a small drill in acid overnight and see how blunt the edges are in the morning)
 
Electroplating... or rather deplating seems a little much for simple file cleaning. 4 hours in the tank? Better just whack it on the side of a good work bench a few times to knock the loose stuff out. I've been electroplating and anodizing for about 7 years and I can't imagine dealing with all the fumes and chemicals to clean a file.

Just my 2 cents, even if it's only worth a peso.
 
Electroplating... or rather deplating seems a little much for simple file cleaning. 4 hours in the tank? Better just whack it on the side of a good work bench a few times to knock the loose stuff out. I've been electroplating and anodizing for about 7 years and I can't imagine dealing with all the fumes and chemicals to clean a file.

Just my 2 cents, even if it's only worth a peso.

I think that I can go along with this concept amongst others. All that I am trying to do is trying to make a hobby that bit easier and in this economic climate, extend the time of replacing tooling.


The first point is that it is one of my hobbies. Perhaps if I can't afford the hobby or am unable to continue, then perhaps a re-think is necessary.
 
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Seriously then, follow those links I put up to brownells... for the price.... and 30 seconds worth of work... you won't find a more effective solution!
 
Not everyone may be able to get these but I have a number of rifle cartridge cases that have been hammered flat at the open end, they do a great job of cleaning files, just need to scrub across the file at the same angle as the teeth, I haven't tried it but most probably any piece of thin brass tube that has been flattened at one end will do the job.
 
OK I need to do a full read on this.

IMHO for most file cleaning a file card or stiff bristle brush is all that i needed.

It is interesting to know reverse electroplating can be done in the home shop.

I do not think septic was implying his methods are for everyone but simply noting how he cleans files.


And files can be commercially sharpened

Boggs tools
Tin
 
Tin, do you know some one at Boggs Tool? I'm looking to have a tool ground to cut internal ring gears. Can you recommend them or did you just Google "file sharpening"?
 
No personal contact. Years ago a well known Blade Smith that demonstrated at a local shop recommended them . His shop was flooded and all his files were under water he sent the lot to them . they came back well wrapped and in great condition. They used to have a trail offer and sharpen one tool for free not sure if they still do. IIRC you pay shipping.
Tin
 
When my files become clogged with solder I put them under the stereo microscope) and chase the grooves individually with the end of a scalpel blade. It takes about 6 ot 7 minutes to do the whole file. When I get them clogged with brass it takes a little longer.

The stereo microscope has changed my appreciation of edges on sharp things, I never have to peer and guess about the condition of anything.
 

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