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It seems I have posted my comment out of place. Could some kind soul point me to the thread where we are discussing sub headings?
Any group has that problem also the thread will other ways a times. More categories will not help this problem.

Do think Furnace/metal subcategory. could be a help as it lost in molding.
Molding in thread it could switch from sand to lost wax or foam for different reasons in middle of thread. So all be same category.

Right I on different where how to remove a tap. The OP added a nitric acid to tile , some think everyone should only talke a nitric acid but this very dangerous. They see on YouTube I guy using the acid without safety gear need not ok.

So few categories the better

Dave
 
The backyard foundry hazard thing is very real, and people get in over their head sometimes and get hurt.
That is the downside to backyard casting.
Not everyone is cut out to do backyard casting work, and random non-skilled people should generally not be trying to cast metal without some sort of training.

The good side to backyard casting is that one can reproduce many of the old designs at any scale, and in gray iron if you take the time to learn how to cast gray iron.

Making patterns and getting gray iron castings made has been a part of the model engine hobby since at least 1920 (where I saw it in two magazine articles), and no doubt it dates back to long before 1920.

Many hobby folks have been aware of the cupola-style of iron casting for a long time, and there are some good books out on that.
Finding a supply of coke (fuel) for a cupola has become a problem that I have never been able to solve.
Not being able to find a source for coke has turned out to be a good thing, since using fuel oil to melt iron in a crucible furnace is infinitely more simple than operating a cupola. An oil-fired furnace with a crane and pouring cart can be operated by one person, and can pour in excess of 200 lbs of iron at a time, if you want to scale it up to such a size. A cupola of any size generally requires a multi-person crew to operate, and it makes a huge mess to clean up. The tapping part of crucible operation is often a wild proceedure to witness, with molten metal often spraying everywhere.
Photos below.
Despite all the fire and flames, the cupola folks have a rigorous safety program, with multiple people at each pour dedicated to safety only during the entire event. They train beforehand, and have pre-post safety meetings, and detailed safety discussions.
Cupola iron pours look wild, but there is nothing random about what happens during one of these events, especially with regards to safety.
The people you see standing around in the photos are not just casual observers, but each has a safety function, and you can seen them watching the process intently.

And some hobby folks around the world have been aware that gray iron could be melted with a fuel oil (such as diesel) for a long time, but I don't know the timeline on that.
I discovered someone melting gray iron in a backyard setting with an oil burner in 2011, and that is the first I recall ever seeing iron melted with fuel oil.
Before 2011 I was under the assumption that a cupola with coke was the only way to melt iron.

I have been very excited about learning that gray iron can be melted with an oil burner ever since I discovered that in 2011.
I wish more people would build oil-fired iron furnaces, and propogate that knowledge-base/skill for use in making model engine parts.

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The backyard foundry hazard thing is very real, and people get in over their head sometimes and get hurt.
That is the downside to backyard casting.
Not everyone is cut out to do backyard casting work, and random non-skilled people should generally not be trying to cast metal without some sort of training.

The good side to backyard casting is that one can reproduce many of the old designs at any scale, and in gray iron if you take the time to learn how to cast gray iron.

Making patterns and getting gray iron castings made has been a part of the model engine hobby since at least 1920 (where I saw it in two magazine articles), and no doubt it dates back to long before 1920.

Many hobby folks have been aware of the cupola-style of iron casting for a long time, and there are some good books out on that.
Finding a supply of coke (fuel) for a cupola has become a problem that I have never been able to solve.
Not being able to find a source for coke has turned out to be a good thing, since using fuel oil to melt iron in a crucible furnace is infinitely more simple than operating a cupola. An oil-fired furnace with a crane and pouring cart can be operated by one person, and can pour in excess of 200 lbs of iron at a time, if you want to scale it up to such a size. A cupola of any size generally requires a multi-person crew to operate, and it makes a huge mess to clean up. The tapping part of crucible operation is often a wild proceedure to witness, with molten metal often spraying everywhere.
Photos below.
Despite all the fire and flames, the cupola folks have a rigorous safety program, with multiple people at each pour dedicated to safety only during the entire event. They train beforehand, and have pre-post safety meetings, and detailed safety discussions.
Cupola iron pours look wild, but there is nothing random about what happens during one of these events, especially with regards to safety.
The people you see standing around in the photos are not just casual observers, but each has a safety function, and you can seen them watching the process intently.

And some hobby folks around the world have been aware that gray iron could be melted with a fuel oil (such as diesel) for a long time, but I don't know the timeline on that.
I discovered someone melting gray iron in a backyard setting with an oil burner in 2011, and that is the first I recall ever seeing iron melted with fuel oil.
Before 2011 I was under the assumption that a cupola with coke was the only way to melt iron.

I have been very excited about learning that gray iron can be melted with an oil burner ever since I discovered that in 2011.
I wish more people would build oil-fired iron furnaces, and propogate that knowledge-base/skill for use in making model engine parts.

.
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It is very basic subject.
It is like welding with hazards.
What see photo can happen in welding too.
It not a T-shirt type work.
You need to read with water.

I know had my Foundry there was no weeds or bugs .
But I did the first time I had to clear all weeds any any thing could burn. Also water ground down like going to weld.

Some problems is the safety instructions is more reading a book.
Back started you get list what too do.
You still find this type on internet by looking. The photos shows they did not read safety instructions or ground would not be on fire or guy in t-shirts would be wearing leather (FYI the first safety coats was leather).

Dave
 
Watering the ground could cause some serious explosions when the molten iron hits it.
This is not something you would want to do at an iron pour like this.
You really don't want any water anywhere near this area; dry sand is what is used to extinguish any fires/flames.

I am not sure about the guy in the t-shirt; he should really have leathers and a facemask on, but I do suspect he is the lead safety guy who is watching for problems and directing overall operations.

This group has been doing art-iron pours for perhaps 20 (+) years, with multiple pours per year, and sometimes three cupolas/pours all going at the same time in the same area, and have no record of any injuries, so lets give credit where credit is due.
There is always room for improvement, but suffice it to say that they take safety very very seriously, and have an excellent track record with safety.

Despite what may look like chaos, these folks are very good at what they do (iron-art), and very diligent with safety too.

.
 
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Watering the ground could cause some serious explosions when the molten iron hits it.
This is not something you would want to do at an iron pour like this.
You really don't want any water anywhere near this area; dry sand is what is used to extinguish any fires/flames.

I am not sure about the guy in the t-shirt; he should really have leathers and a facemask on, but I do suspect he is the lead safety guy who is watching for problems and directing overall operations.

This group has been doing art-iron pours for perhaps 20 (+) years, with multiple pours per year, and sometimes three cupolas/pours all going at the same time in the same area, and have no record of any injuries, so lets give credit where credit is due.
There is always room for improvement, but suffice it to say that they take safety very very seriously, and have an excellent track record with safety.

Despite what may look like chaos, these folks are very good at what they do (iron-art), and very diligent with safety too.

.
That is true on concrete.
That is a dirt floor, the mounding sand for cast iron uses water. Fire is not your friend and that ground is on fire.
I started in 1976 running a foundry making wheels for aircraft hangar doors.

Dave
 
Any display where the public are involve is likely to have to be done with safety in mind just like it would in a commercial foundry due to insurance issues.

What people get upto in a home foundry be it oil fired or using a cupola may be a different story
 
I took the photos at that event, and the fact that the grass caught on fire was no big deal, and the folks shoveling the dry sand had it under control within seconds. It was all anticipated, and handled with ease quickly.

They re-seed the cupola spots after every iron pour.

It makes for a great photo, but is not nearly as dangerous as it looks.


Below is one of their vetran art-iron folks, and while it looks a bit precarious as she dumps coke and iron into the cupolet, she has done this probably many hundreds of times (perhaps thousands), and knows exactly what she is doing.

Not only is she an expert at setting up and operating cupolas, burners, furnaces, and metal working in all aspects, but she is also an extraordinary artistic iron casting person.

I would encourage anyone who gets a chance to attend one of these events.
They are spectacular, as is the iron artwork that they create.

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They bring in coke by the ton, and do some fabulous iron sculpture work.
I had hoped to get one of those alligators, but lost her contact information during the hectic 3-day show.

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I have had good success casting with lost foam.
I built several machines to cut the foam.
I have some videos but they are too large to upload here.
I coat the foam with a product slurry called Beadex Silver Set 90.
The cannon barrel was cut using an old Buggo track burner for oxy/acet. cutting that I modified
for cutting foam.
The power for wire cutting comes from a 30V 5amp adjustable dc power supply from Amazon.
My forge is from a propane tank and firebrick, and the burner I made from a free plan from Zoeller Forge.
The forge will melt a #3-6Kg clay graphite crucible of aluminize in 20 minutes with a single burner.

I am lucky to live near a foundry that did all my heat treating for 20 years while I was working (Retired now)
They are great for advice and they give me all the green sand and dusting power I need.
Lost foam casting can be done in a bucket with play sand but I have all the stuff for sand casting and use that.
 

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The hot wire cutting is impressive, as is some of the CNC foam cutting work.

And casting into sand in a bucket would have some definite advantages, as far as being very mimimalistic with space and materials.

I was reading an article yesterday in a commercial casting magazine, and they were running tests on various glues that are used to adhere mutiple foam patterns together.

The idea was to get a glue that would melt/vaporize at the same rate as the foam, so that the progression of the molten metal was not interrupted during the pour.

I saw one guy try lost foam with gray iron, and it was a dismal failure, so I don't know exactly what he did wrong.
Obviously they use lost foam with iron commercially a lot.

The successes I have seen with lost foam have all been with aluminum.

Nice work.
I like that cannon !

.
 
The hot wire cutting is impressive, as is some of the CNC foam cutting work.

And casting into sand in a bucket would have some definite advantages, as far as being very mimimalistic with space and materials.

I was reading an article yesterday in a commercial casting magazine, and they were running tests on various glues that are used to adhere mutiple foam patterns together.

The idea was to get a glue that would melt/vaporize at the same rate as the foam, so that the progression of the molten metal was not interrupted during the pour.

I saw one guy try lost foam with gray iron, and it was a dismal failure, so I don't know exactly what he did wrong.
Obviously they use lost foam with iron commercially a lot.

The successes I have seen with lost foam have all been with aluminum.

Nice work.
I like that cannon !

.
Funny you brought the glue thing. Any foam castings in aluminum where I use glue had flaws. Tried several types none worked well.
The foam disappears instantly while the glue gasses off ruining the piece. I just went to bigger foam. This was one of the first questions I was going to ask this group.

I am new here and have been browsing all the beautiful work people have been doing.
I am a retired machinist/welder. I have been collecting books and whatever info I can glean off the web about model steam engines for years. Now that I am retired I have plenty of time to start building steam engines. I think this is the best place for advice.

My goal is a model rc steam powered tugboat with reverse. I have some plans for the engine but will certainly have a ton of questions during the build. I also have questions about a boiler I am making. This drew up from an old Popular Mechanics mag.
The drum and tubing is complete, just need to solder on the end caps. (I am sure I am breaking some sort of cross posting rules but I am new at this and will figure it out soon enough)
 

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Probably best to start a new thread rather than use this one. Click Forums at the top of the page, select which main heading best suits your subject and click that. at the top of the list is a greye dline "thread Title" start typing in that and a box comes up to type your post just like a reply

Then we can discuss the great finish you look to have got on those castings.
 
Funny you brought the glue thing. Any foam castings in aluminum where I use glue had flaws. Tried several types none worked well.
The foam disappears instantly while the glue gasses off ruining the piece. I just went to bigger foam. This was one of the first questions I was going to ask this group.

I am new here and have been browsing all the beautiful work people have been doing.
I am a retired machinist/welder. I have been collecting books and whatever info I can glean off the web about model steam engines for years. Now that I am retired I have plenty of time to start building steam engines. I think this is the best place for advice.

My goal is a model rc steam powered tugboat with reverse. I have some plans for the engine but will certainly have a ton of questions during the build. I also have questions about a boiler I am making. This drew up from an old Popular Mechanics mag.
The drum and tubing is complete, just need to solder on the end caps. (I am sure I am breaking some sort of cross posting rules but I am new at this and will figure it out soon enough)
"I also have questions about a boiler I am making."
Not to worry you will have some on here that will give you more then what you ask for.
Nice work with the foam cutting looking forward on asking you a lot of questions about it when I get back on my feet and in the shop.
I started to 3d print a cnc hot wire cutter to play with (See Youtube video I copy from) . I made a manual table cutter for my daughter 2 years ago. She uses foam for her plaster sculptures. I wish to use it in aluminum casting.
First project going to be the Gingery Metal Shaper. I will start a new new thread rather than use this one when the time comes. Looking forward to your help , GreenTwin and others on here.


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Folks can slide off topic into "lost foam" or other foundry/casting topics here; I don't care about that.
I am interested in all casting methods.

For the sake of others looking for a "lost foam" topic though, Jason is correct, it would be better to start a separate lost foam thread.

I think there will be more and more lost foam castings seen around the net; it is a popular thing now.

Edit:
Well dang, that hot wire mated with the 3D printer is about the coolest thing I have seen in a while !
There is much development that could be done with a machine like that.

.
 
Folks can slide off topic into "lost foam" or other foundry/casting topics here; I don't care about that.
I am interested in all casting methods.

For the sake of others looking for a "lost foam" topic though, Jason is correct, it would be better to start a separate lost foam thread.

I think there will be more and more lost foam castings seen around the net; it is a popular thing now.

Edit:
Well dang, that hot wire mated with the 3D printer is about the coolest thing I have seen in a while.
There is much development that could be done with a machine like that.

.
"Well dang, that hot wire mated with the 3D printer is about the coolest thing I have seen in a while.
There is much development that could be done with a machine like that."
Working on that while I am on my back doing nothing bored out of my mind.
 
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