End of an (electrical) era

[Klrskies]

Just lowering of the inflation rate leaves the elevated prices and shrink-flation remain intact while the consumer's wages did not escalate at the same rate... still a big loss for the consumer, especially for the young family of 4 that is struggling more now on a day-day basis. Those invested in the market are in the best shape as it continues upward. The upper end of the middle class recently crested at over $200k for a family of 4. That's a lot of money to me, but I guess older, established families with 2 children still living at home can certainly make that much with two working parents with 6 figure incomes... I just don't know too many, but it shows how much it costs to be ok in the world today.

 

[SmithDoor]

Yes, I agree, but with inflation spiraling more and more out of control these days, sometimes home castings may be the only viable option.
Sort of like eating out; it is getting so expensive to eat out these days that I am having to really limit that, along with a lot of other things.
.

I wish had schematic on the electric eye type. It would simpler to build would not need magnetic on flywheel
All you need is the electric eye and micro oven transformer rewind to 12 volts

Dave

 

[Aerostar55]

Since I built my first internal combustion engine in 2012, I've been using automotive ignition points that originally were used on 1961 to 1972 Chrysler products. They were fabulous!! These points and the the same year of condenser worked with absolutely no modifications on the small i.c. engines I make. They worked so good that I modelled them in 3D cad, and just dropped them into an engine cad assembly whenever I needed them. And the best part was that the points and condenser together cost only $20 Canadian funds. Alas, this year they were declared "special order" parts.--I can still get them, but now they cost $40 per set---and that is too steep for my blood. I could bite the bullet and move up to electronic ignition with a Hall switch and magnet, but again, the cost ends up being prohibitive. I think I am now going to have to find a supplier of ignition points for a chainsaw or gas lawnmower ??? that will work on a 12 volt power supply, model them in 3D cad, and begin using them on anymore engines that I build. If anybody has a favorite set of inexpensive mechanical ignition points and condenser they would like to share with me, it would be greatly appreciated. It is not a problem to model them up in 3D and begin using them instead of my old Chrysler points.---Brian Rupnow

Brian, I've used 1977 GM V8 points for years. They look similar to the image you posted. But alas they have gone up in price lately. I used to buy a new set a the auto parts store for $12.00 USD. I've found them on ebay from time to time pretty cheap. Also, the Lucas point set for the MG midget, Austin Healy Sprite and the MGB are very compact and can be found on eBay too. Other than that making your own points isn't too hard (except for the spring). Take a look at www.partsgeek.com online they list a points set for the 1958 Willy's Jeep for $10.97 USD. under "points"

 

[bluejets]

I could bite the bullet and move up to electronic ignition with a Hall switch and magnet, but again, the cost ends up being prohibitive.

Hall effect and magnet cost would be less than an ice cream.
3144 and a 3x1.5mm magnet around AUD$3.00.

 

[bluejets]

It would simpler to build would not need magnetic on flywheel

Hall effect can be utilised using the "missing material" method, no need for a magnet on the flywheel.

 

[L98fiero]

Hall effect and magnet cost would be less than an ice cream.
3144 and a 3x1.5mm magnet around AUD$3.00.

That's all fine if you know how to build the circuits, many that grew up making engines with points can't do that. I know it's simple, but only if you know how to do it.

 

[bluejets]

That's all fine if you know how to build the circuits, many that grew up making engines with points can't do that. I know it's simple, but only if you know how to do it.

Not difficult.....all the components (3) come assembled on a module (KY-003)
Signal connection directly place where points normally go with power to both rails.
Module contains an LED for timing purposes.

That all combined with more than enough info on the web for a 10 year old to get working.
I have in fact shown how to do it in this actual forum.

 

[Jasonb]

For the cost of a spark generator off ebay at less than $10 you may as well just buy one of those. No hall sensors to go wrong. And it's a buzz type rather than a single spark

Simple 4 wires - Positive, Negative/ground, sparkplug and the last wire just needs simple make and break contact to ground. Seen here just as a wire touching a revolving contact.

 

[Gordon]

For the cost of a spark generator off ebay at less than $10 you may as well just buy one of those. No hall sensors to go wrong. And it's a buzz type rather than a single spark

Simple 4 wires - Positive, Negative/ground, sparkplug and the last wire just needs simple make and break contact to ground. Seen here just as a wire touching a revolving contact.

That is something that I have never heard of. I looked on eBay for spark generator and all it shows is a push button ignitor for barbeque grills. Could you post a link to one on eBay?

 

[Jasonb]

Might get more results with pulse generator but this is the one I bought on UK ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203060489106

If you look at Grahams (Grum C) he has it with the spark showing.

The push buttom type also work OK, the likes of Jan Ridders pulls the guts out of them to use for is "blokker" ignitions but this type is a nice sealed unit and comes with proper HT cable.

Here is our little Ideal engine, Simple to set up Graham just has the conrod touching the wire as it comes round to tdc, he is a master of the quick and simple lash up !

 

[Lloyd-ss]

Might get more results with pulse generator but this is the one I bought on UK ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203060489106

If you look at Grahams (Grum C) he has it with the spark showing.

The push buttom type also work OK, the likes of Jan Ridders pulls the guts out of them to use for is "blokker" ignitions but this type is a nice sealed unit and comes with proper HT cable.

Here is our little Ideal engine, Simple to set up Graham just has the conrod touching the wire as it comes round to tdc, he is a master of the quick and simple lash up !

I like this kind of MacGyver or mad scientist approach when giving something brand new a try. You're not sure it is going to work so you fiddle around until you get that moment where it barely kinda works and you realize you are on to something. Then you can clean up the design or, if it didn't work, abandon the new idea without investing much time or money or having made a permanent bad modification to your project. Nice!
Lloyd
edit-P.S. that bare wire might be replaced with a simple magnetic reed switch if the current isn't too high. Those are cheap and easy and require no electronics experience.

 

[BaronJ]

I wish had schematic on the electric eye type. It would simpler to build would not need magnetic on flywheel
All you need is the electric eye and micro oven transformer rewind to 12 volts

Dave

Just about every HP printer has one of these slotted optical sensors. Basically a pair of LEDs. Some of the print heads have a more complex one.

 

[Gordon]

Might get more results with pulse generator but this is the one I bought on UK ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203060489106

If you look at Grahams (Grum C) he has it with the spark showing.

The push buttom type also work OK, the likes of Jan Ridders pulls the guts out of them to use for is "blokker" ignitions but this type is a nice sealed unit and comes with proper HT cable.

Here is our little Ideal engine, Simple to set up Graham just has the conrod touching the wire as it comes round to tdc, he is a master of the quick and simple lash up !

I just ordered one to give it a try. Not much invested so it is worth trying. What kind of power are you using? One or two AA or does it take more power than that?

 

[Jasonb]

Depends on how fast you want it to "buzz" two would do but four will see it sparking a lot more, have a look at Graham's other video

 

[TonyM]

I've got a couple of these on the way to test. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006704153203.html?search_direct=true&spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0

 

[Sparky_SC]

I've got a couple of these on the way to test. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006704153203.html?search_direct=true&spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0

Very interesting. Listing does not say but it sure does look like a hall sensor on that one set of leads. Crazy cheap if it works out.

 

[Vietti]

Very interesting indeed-I hope someone will post on how well they work-great price

 

[TonyM]

Very interesting. Listing does not say but it sure does look like a hall sensor on that one set of leads. Crazy cheap if it works out.

I found some of the cheap chinese ignitions work by simply putting the contacts / switch between the white signal wire and and the battery negative. Will let you know how these perform. I expect them this coming week

 

[Danuzzo]

Good thread, and very much related to what I am looking for in thread I started yesterday, an inexpensive ignition system for a Weber.

 

[Ghosty]

I picked up a couple of these coils, They are a true "Buzz Type" coil, for only $8 Australian, They are cheep. Done some testing with a 2 cell LiPo battery(Running at 7.5 volt, not fully charged) the spark jumps 2mm gap easily. At 1mm(0.040") they give a nice blue spark, easily enough to fire a engine.
As most people I have seen use either 6 or 12 volts to run model engines, these could be used.
First video at 2mm, second with 1mm gap.
Cheers
Andrew