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Beautiful work. You likely already know about all this but just in case... 'grades' of both methanol & nitro-methane very important for successful starting & running of glow engines. When its off-spec, it can make for very frustrating experience. I've even experienced this with good commercial RC fuel gone bad over time because the recipe is quite hydroscopic. What complicates matters is subjective labelling: industrial grade, fuel grade, premium garde.. So try & delve into what you are buying if its off the shelf. You can google some of the RC fuel manufacturers because they typically cite their ingredient specs as example below. Ifthey could get away with lower purity, then they would... but they can't & therefor don't... to purchase some nitro methane and suitable synthetic oil and an electric starter. I have already sourced some methanol. Recommended percentage of nitro methane in methanol is 3% to 5%..
http://www.odonnellracing.com/about/
I know the Edwards is primarily 'methanol' fuel because the oil pump takes care of lube as opposed methanol/oil premix RC fuel. But another issue to think about is compatibility of the small% oil in your methanol with your choice of circulating oil (if I understand your plan).
IMO a safer solution, maybe just until the engine is running & dialed in, is to buy a gallon of RC fuel. Its available in 0% - 40% nitro-methane & yes will have some typically synthetic and/or castor oil. But if you do the volumetrics & add methanol to this, you will arrive at the target specs. This gives you a bit of latitude if you want to tweak the nitro content which helps with starting & idling particularly. If you can find a supplier of 'FAI' fuel, that has no nitro in it, but takes care of the quality issue. There may well be a cost add, but you'd be surprised. We used to do homebrew mixing & basically threw in the towel because the cost differential just didn't make sense anymore (and nothwithstanding storage danger etc).