Drip Oiler--with a secret--

[Dan Rowe]

Guys oilers were available with sight feed and plain. I just checked my 1923 industrial supply catalog and a plain brass oil cup 3/4" OD cost $.30. The same size oiler with a stop cock cost $.90. Then add on sight feed and a snap lever and the price is $1.25. This is taken from 4 full pages of oiler types and options. Then as now you get what you pay for.

I think Brian's design is much better than a plain cup or even a stop cock. As for repeatable settings the common way is to put a red line on the valve wheel so the operator has a visual clue as to where to set the valve for different operating conditions.

Dan

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I got up early this morning amd made up a couple of knurled "handles" that are threaded and loctited onto my needle-screws. Looks a lot better and saves hunting for an allen wrench each time I want to open or close them. I will probably do something "fancy" for the top filler screws, just because I can. My good wife has just came downstairs and made noises about vacuuming and cleaning house for Christmas, so I think machining is over untill after Christmas. My wife has a slightly bad back, so I have the vacuuming duties.---On a side note, my old built in vacuum wasn't really doing its thing, so last month I sprung for one of those Dyson "ball" vacuums. Man, what a tremendous suckability those things have. First time I used it on our carpets I was horrified at how damn much dirt I'd been living in and wasn't aware of it.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Okay--House is cleaned up, mommy's gone out to buy a turkey, and I get to finish my oiler top plugs. I'm done!!! Tops are made from mild steel heated cherry red and dropped into some motor oil for "instant blackening". I love my cheap BusyBee knurling tool!!

 

[jpeter]

You got that engine hit'n and miss'n yet? In the picture of the flywheel weights it looks like a lot of springege on the weights. Does it trip off at fairly desent rpm? I like mine running around 5 or 6 hundred rpm but some like theirs faster. Just wondering. If you don't have a tac you can get a feel for the rpm by touching your finger on the cam and counting the revs for a second. Of course you have to double that for the true reading.

 

[zeeprogrammer]

Looks great Brian. Nicely done.

 

[Deanofid]

Deanofid---I didn't know about all the stuff you posted.

I realize that. None of us knows everything.

[quoe]If you don't like my cheap homemade oilers, I suggest you go down to the bank today, get out a wheelbarrow load of money, and go buy some of the fancy ones.----Brian
[/quote]

Kind of touchy about it, too, I see.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I realize that. None of us knows everything.

[quoe]If you don't like my cheap homemade oilers, I suggest you go down to the bank today, get out a wheelbarrow load of money, and go buy some of the fancy ones.----Brian


Kind of touchy about it, too, I see.

And a Merry christmas to you too, my friend. Of course I am touchy about it. I designed and posted this oiler to be a benefit to members on this board. If you care to look at the other posts, you will see that others appreciate what I did. You are the one making statements about a "de-evolution of an already proven design." You are under no obligation to use it. Did you think that your derogotory comments were going to make me happy?? If you have nothing good to say, then don't look at my postings.

 

[mklotz]

Gentlemen,

Please. Cool it. We don't want to have to lock any threads on Xmas.

 

[jpeter]

These are cool but pretty cool too would be the double oiler for the mains. Think about some type of a saddle arrangement across the top with the oil reservoir in the middle. Wouldn't that be cool. One needle would feed both sides.

 

[Deanofid]

Brian, sorry to have given offense.

Dean

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Dean---Lets let it go. Sometimes I am not the soul of sweet reason either. Like I said, Merry Christmas. peace on earth. Happy machining!!!----Brian

 

[mklotz]

Thanks guys. I appreciate that.

 

[Metal Butcher]

Hi Brian. I'm transferring this post to your post since it pertains to your thread topic, and was directed towards you.

Quoting Jasonb:

Brian if the con rod has enough metal in it you can drill along its length through the wrist pin bearing with a fine hole which terminates in a larger hole drilled part way down from the top of the conrod. This larger hole will act as a resovoir and feed oil down to the pin. The same method can be used on the big end as you can see on my zero-six which also has a small oil cup on the crank pin hole.

Jason

 

[Brian Rupnow]

By milling a shallow slot in my piston skirt and adding a thru hole directly over the wrist pin area, I can get it to line up with a drilled hole thru the small end of the con rod. This way a drip oiler positioned over the cylinder will provide oil which runs down the slot and thru the hole to the small end of the con rod, then thru the conrod small end to the wrist pin.