Drill Sharpener

[bazmak]

Been following this post with interest,i used to be able to handsharpen
drills well with the old flick of the wrist to a good std down to say 2mm
but have not done for many years.Large stock of drills and light use
when they stop cutting I throw them away. Having said that yesterday
I broke a 3.2 drill in stainless and my reserve would not cut so I tried grinding
Total failure,eyesight and age.So I had to use a 3.3mm and then tap M4
Don't like stainless at all.Will start a thread shortly on my next project
the eccentric engineering tool and cutter grinding fixture

 

[goldstar31]

Will start a thread shortly on my next project
the Eccentric Engineering tool and cutter grinding fixture

I bought a 6" 180g CBN wheel at the weekend and today, bought enough plate for two rests, and a lot more and a mile of 25mm square. I found two finer diamond wheels which I thought had been lost through storm damage.

I have the drawings! Metric ugh! I'm Imperious

No post yet??????

Regards

Norm

 

[bazmak]

Just starting a post on making the acute sharpening system Norm
you might find it interesting.Question, I need to buy a better quality grinding wheel similar to the one shown on Utube with the acute grinding system
What and where is best Norm ? diamond?

 

[goldstar31]

Just starting a post on making the acute sharpening system Norm
you might find it interesting.Question, I need to buy a better quality grinding wheel similar to the one shown on Utube with the acute grinding system
What and where is best Norm ? diamond?

At present, I note that you are far ahead of me. However, As I mentioned elsewhere, I bought a 6" using the 180 grit CBN wheel which is 1" wide similar to that in the Acute videos. The local firm was Axminster Tools in North Shields. Confessing to having a Mk1 Clarkson, I have tried the wheel on a lathe tool. I was rather disappointed with the finish despite running at 4000rpm. However, the grit is on the perimeter of the wheel and it came out hollow ground. So my embryo tool was honed brilliantly with bridging the grinds with a 600grit flat diamond.
Then I went out and bought the metal , came home and had to get on with the chores that a recent widower has to attend.
I might add, that the wheel cost £100:wall:
Moreover, I wonder if the 180 grit will improve with use. I mean create finer finish. Perhaps others could chime in here.

Again, I found two diamond wheels 5" diameter but they have no grading information having been underwater and rusted:wall: They are much finer grits and probably came from a manufacturer of spectacle lenses.

I don't know whether this will help you but that is my 'progress report' to date.

Adding a little idle thought, I got sufficient 150mm square 4mm metal to make THREE bases should I get around to it or them.

Unfortunately, I DO have supply problems and will have to do quite a lot of MIG welding to get anywhere.

So there you have it- back to coffee.:hDe:

Regards

Norm

 

[Blogwitch]

Baz & Norman,

What you have to consider if going for bonded rather than embedded diamond wheels is how to dress them flat again after they become worn and they can do rather rapidly.

Embedded diamonds you just throw away when diamonds get scarce on the plate, but with bonded wheels, you have to use either an ali oxide stone in an attempt to dress it flat or angled by hand, or like myself when I use one on my surface grinder, a brake dresser, which is about one of the only ways you will get them perfectly flat.

http://www.absimporttools.com/diamond-wheel-brake-truing-dresser.html


John

 

[Blogwitch]

Baz,

Just had a look at your grinding rest and for using diamond grinding, it might pay you to move the rest to the side and clamp a diamond lap (embedded diamonds) using the normal mandrel onto the side of the normal wheel instead of fitting a bonded wheel onto your grinder.

Doing it that way you will have the best of both worlds, just by moving the rest through 90 degrees.

Diamond laps

http://richontools.com/index.php?ma...ption=1&keyword=Diamond+coated+laps&x=19&y=14


John

 

[goldstar31]

Thanks John! I used to make modified resins for abrasive wheels - in the Dark Ages!
However, I don't really get to 'over use' of diamond wheels because I don't sharpen tools- the present accepted way.

I rough grind- with any old wheel perhaps from the Great Wall of China so that I get the shape. However, I don't hone the complete cutting face. I simply hone a little more than needed for the depth of cut which leaves the roughed out portion doing nothing but support the real cutting edge and perhaps being an ersatz heat sink. I find it rather excessive to hone ALL when it is not any use!

The foregoing is what older farts like Ian Bradley described in his ancient but useful 'Shaping Machine and Lathe Tools' dating back to when I bought my first copy as a National Service RAF Corporal in 1949!

Sometimes I get an urge( well?) and I use either an Arkansas stone or the undrilled faceplate from my Myford using one of my syringes of diamond pastes.

So, forgive me, but I'm a non- conformist.

Cheers

Norman

 

[bazmak]

thanks for your replies but I am still non the wiser.I would use a normal
wheel for rough grinding but would like a smoother diamond type wheel
for the light finishing.Wider face just like the one on Utube.Looking on
ebay what is available then I have a normal wheel or a cup wheel and go at the wheel from the end of the grinder.I bought a diamond cup wheel and it was adequate in the mill for finishing both HSS and Carbide.The problem with the diamond cup and normal wheels are the width of the face is only about 10mm
Could I fit 3 side by side to give me 30mm width ? This is not my area of expertise please treat me as ignorant and put forward suggestions. You know the direction I am heading

 

[goldstar31]

Barry
It is worth thinking about what 10mm will do. In lathe tool terms, it's quite a big lathe tool- almost 1/2" whereas if this is applied to a milling cutter it grinds/hones almost an inch. If you have a 7" swing lathe, that is quite a lot.
At 100 rpm which I think is the slowest a 7" will drop to, you will be pushing it. My view- perhaps wrong.

Again, using MY way, all one needs to finally hone is a fraction more than the largest depth of cut that you can get with a small lathe.
If you think about it, an insert tool is only capable of cutting its thickness- otherwise you would be including the tool holder as well.
Do you now agree, please? Again, if you have a milling cutter you will find a primary grind of say 15-30 degrees but it is the little bit of 5 degrees that is doing the milling.

At least that is my interpretation of events.

Back after the weekend

Norm

 

[texta]

great , thought i might have a crack at making gadget builders drill sharpener . so off i go to the magazine to order back issues needed for the drawings and yep jan / feb 2012 not available .

johno

 

[goldstar31]

Barry
Whilst waiting for a taxi, I'm sort of perusing the plans and metal as my request for a kit using my Visa account was refused!
So I have to chop up a large 4mm sheet. So following on, what do you propose to trepan the many discs?

Cheers

Norm

 

[bazmak]

I don't know if I'm being slow here Norman,but do I understand that you are also making the acute system? I haven't got my drawings yet so haven't
given much thought to manufacture of further parts.Do you have the plans
but not a kit of parts

 

[BaronJ]

thanks for your replies but I am still non the wiser.I would use a normal
wheel for rough grinding but would like a smoother diamond type wheel
for the light finishing.Wider face just like the one on Utube.Looking on
ebay what is available then I have a normal wheel or a cup wheel and go at the wheel from the end of the grinder.I bought a diamond cup wheel and it was adequate in the mill for finishing both HSS and Carbide.The problem with the diamond cup and normal wheels are the width of the face is only about 10mm
Could I fit 3 side by side to give me 30mm width ? This is not my area of expertise please treat me as ignorant and put forward suggestions. You know the direction I am heading

Hello Baz,

The laps that John refered to are thin discs but plated on one side all the way to the hole in the centre. Just fit one of the right size against the side of the existing wheel. That way you have three surface grades that you can use.

 

[BaronJ]

great , thought i might have a crack at making gadget builders drill sharpener . so off i go to the magazine to order back issues needed for the drawings and yep jan / feb 2012 not available .

johno

Hi Johno,

All the information is on the http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/ web site, but I do recomend sending an Email to John Moran. I found him to be very helpfull.

Here is a picture of mine when I was setting up the holder angles.

 

[goldstar31]

Hi Baz

I will build one for the Hell of it
Cheers

 

[texta]

there are no plans on gadgets web site and i dont like to impose with emails to people i dont know . i would of gladly bought the magazine back issues required to obtain the plans but they cant be had .
so i scrap the idea and either buy a drill doctor or i go over to my mates place and use his tool and cutter grinder which is what he has been telling me to do for 12 months but i am not a person that imposes on others and prefer not to use or borrow other peoples gear though some times i have to make an exeption as a last resort .


johno

 

[BaronJ]

Johno,

Believe me John Moran would love to hear from you and would happily supply you with his plans and build notes. I also know that he likes to put pictures on his web site of work that has been done by his readers.

Whilst I have his plans and notes he does ask that you don't distribute them. So don't fret about it, drop him a note, his Email details are on his web pages.

 

[BaronJ]

Hi Guys. Baz, Johno,

I've found some of the missing pictures of my Four - Six Facet Drill Grinder. They turned out to be in an adjacent folder. Anyway Here they are. There are some differences from the original design but it was a matter of using material that I had to hand, though nothing that materially affects the functioning of the grinder.

As can be seen the drill holder is mounted on the left hand side of the wheel. The two holes in the right hand edge are because I followed the wrong line. It makes no difference which edge of the wheel is used. In any case the toggle switch reverses the motor spin direction. The rocker switch turns the power to the motor on/off. I wired the illuminated rocker switch so that it was lit when mains power was available rather than the other way round. The idea was that I would always know if it was plugged in.

I also used a standard IEC three pin mains socket to supply mains power to the grinder. This meant that I could just use a common cheap computer power cable with a 13 Amp fused plug. Saves having to put a fuse inside the casing. It is fitted with a 3 Amp fuse.

The modified arrangement for traversing the table can also be seen here. Again the idea was that a couple of screws and the handle can be reversed and stowed out of the way when the grinder was stored.

Since the motor and hence the grinding wheel surface have to be accurately positioned I made an adjustable stop so that I could move the grinding wheel away from the table by turning the 4BA threaded rod.

Another modification was to mount a false plate on the main table so that I can use the grinder to grind other types of cutters by changing the fixture.

The metal case was made from an old computer case that I cut up and pop riveted together. That colour is supposed to be Myford Green, but its not, its too light.

All in all it was a relatively easy build, nothing particularly difficult. Setting it up was a bit fiddly but once set it doesn't need to be touched unless the wheel is changed.