Drawbar nut on G0704 ?

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V 45

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Jan 19, 2012
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Hello All,
Is there something better out there to change the draw bar nut/shaft on the
G0704 (BF 20)? That little 9mm square post is a really small. I'm very new at
this but very mechanically inclined (for the most part). I have used a
brigdeport before with the big nut on top. Seems like it could be something like
that on the grizz.
Thanx in advance !!
V 45
 
Yeah, I hate the drawbar arrangement on the G0704. It would work a lot better for a 3 handed guy, and with no spindle lock, it's hard to tighten the drawbar sufficiently. I think the best solution is to get a spanner wrench to fit the bottom of the quill (you have to drill a small hole in the bottom part of the quill for the spanner wrench) and then make a new drawbar out of a bolt.
 
V-45-

Have you done the 3-bolt head modification, and the tramming aids? Both extremely useful. Also, I see you have a power feed. How well does it work?

Paul
 
The drawbar is a standard 7/16-20 thread on the bottom end. I replaced mine with a 9" long grade 8 bolt. It has a 5/8" hex head on it. You can find them online for just a few bucks.
 
websterz said:
The drawbar is a standard 7/16-20 thread on the bottom end. I replaced mine with a 9" long grade 8 bolt. It has a 5/8" hex head on it. You can find them online for just a few bucks.

Thanx for the bolt info !! How much dis assembly is required to change this out ?
 
Paulsv said:
V-45-

Have you done the 3-bolt head modification, and the tramming aids? Both extremely useful. Also, I see you have a power feed. How well does it work?

Paul

Paul - At this time I haven't done the 3 bolt mod or tram yet...they are next Wanted to play with new machine before I take it all apart !! The Auto feed works very well...but a PITA to put on !!
 
V 45 said:
Thanx for the bolt info !! How much dis assembly is required to change this out ?

You just remove the little cover that holds in the stock drawbar (the shiny one with the two wrench flats) and lift the drawbar out. I highly recommend making a top-hat style bushing to keep the new drawbar centered. A simple aluminum bushing turned to fit the spindle ID and drilled to fit the bolt's OD, and a little flange on top to keep it from falling down in the spindle. The cover that houses the stock drawbar serves the same purpose of keeping the top end centered. Otherwise you get a lot of whine and vibration at higher speeds.
 
V 45 said:
Paul - At this time I haven't done the 3 bolt mod or tram yet...they are next Wanted to play with new machine before I take it all apart !! The Auto feed works very well...but a PITA to put on !!

Agreed about the power feed being a bugger to install. I ended up re-tapping the holes in the bed to 1/4-20 and putting in the longest bolts I had. Then I cut off the heads leaving 1/4-20 studs. The power feed hung by itself on the studs freeing up both hands for putting on the lock washers and nuts. I spent an hour fighting it before I decided to go this route. Actual install time was 5 minutes with the stud conversion!
 
For the drawbar I had a peice of 1 1/16" hex bar laying around so I cur a 1/2" off and broached a squir hole in the cinter and used a setscrew to tighten it down. For the power feed I losened the right side endcap of the table and locked the table down and backed the lead screw out of the way then mounted the powerfeed an the left side then run the lead screw in took 10 min .
 
I've been using a rubber strap wrench on the spindle. Works fine.
Since this is the only mill I've ever used, what would be the advantage in changing the nut?

Best
Stan
 
Sshire said:
I've been using a rubber strap wrench on the spindle. Works fine.
Since this is the only mill I've ever used, what would be the advantage in changing the nut?

Best
Stan

The small square head is just a pain to take collits in and out and get tight. I use my robo grip plires with the protector sleaves to hold the spindale.that and the larger nut alowes me to tightin the draw bar much tighter.
 

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