Clutch motor

[kd0afk]

I'll leave it

 

[justintime]

The point being made is that you can only reduce the motor pulley very slightly before have belt problems… No way to reduce the pulley down to the size you would require for halving the RPMs. Good luck in your efforts, it seems you are fixed upon the Sewing Mach. motor even though it is the most problematic option for you.

 

[TinyTool]

Could everyone do me a favor and read what I have written before you post?
I WILL CHANGE THE PULLEY OF THE MOTOR TO BRING THE RPMS DOWN TO 1750!!!!!!!!
Not trying to be rude, but this is the third time I've said it.

Why read? Just skim a few lines and jump in with an opinion......

Yeah just a thought.... the clutch gear is to bring a very small amount of mass up to speed fairly quickly - the sewing machine aparatum.

I think the sewink boosheen motor would be just fine.... good motors.

As long as there was a little bit of slip and soft starting in the drive train.

But I'd be getting a firm understanding on the clutch and it's operation and service it to spec.....

Just in case.

Many years ago there was a HUGE double decker type dumpster that had a whole factory of industrial sewing machines inside it - all getting tossed out......

I could have acquired several - but I was on foot, I had a long way to go and they had HUGE motors and weighed a ton.....

Another Emelda Marcos moment..... Pass.


Yeah the ONLY reason why great big motors that run sewing machines like machine guns, have clutches, is to basically keep the whole motor running and to only use a light weight drive to the sewing mechanism.

It's to stop endless stopping and starting of the motor, which draws huge amounts of power, overheats the motor, uses loads of power and it's a general prick.

Much better to have a motor and a flywheel / clutch spinning all the time - and then engage the sewing mechanism - because the act of sewing by machine is huge amounts of short bursts of sewing all day every day.....

But to be fair you could just strip the clutch off and direct drive from the motor.... as lathe work tends to be on and using it, and the odd switching off....

Quite a different cycling load to sewing.

 

[johanneskees]

Leave the thermal overload. just connect the motor as indicated somewhere on it's terminal cover's inside or somewhere on the motor itself. There vare to many options on how to connect the overload. for instance if it is a single phase motor it can be already factory connected, or you have to connect it in your "live" line or to a relay or to a contactor, depending on the design of the overload. For a three phase motor it usually switches of the self holding circuit of the starter/run contactor.

Measure and know.

 

[kd0afk]

The motor is wired thanls

 

[quickcut]

Sewing machine motors (the one shown in the picture) are low starting torque motors. They usually have a flywheel and this helps with the stop start operation of sewing. Another thought ,I just noticed that you have a 2 pole motor. Perhaps you could exchange it for a 4 pole one and that would halve the speed.

 

[Royal Viking]

Why not keep the clutch motor on the sewing machine. This is standard for that type of machine. Invest the money in a proper motor for the lathe.

 

[kd0afk]

Royal king. READ before posting. Also, have you ever used a clutch motor on a sewimg machine? Also, the servo motor is the new industry standard

 

[barnesrickw]

I've used a sewing machine motor for my lathe for a bit. The variable speed was great. Had I geared it properly, it would have been perfect. I'm thinking of changing back to it.


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[kd0afk]

Rick, I'm almost finished with the machinists chest. Just the drawer guides left to do and I can assemble it. I can't wait.
Then I get to buy hardware which is going to cost more than the box. I'm making the knobs so I'm saving a hundred right there. I'm not going to bother with a lock right now. Nobody comes into my shop but it will get one later.

 

[barnesrickw]

That is looking really nice. I'm anxious to see it done as well. You could always turn the hardware out of brass. The shop in the background is looks impressive too. Sold a bunch of the scrap from what I sent you to a guy who makes plaques for his car club.


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[barnesrickw]

Just looked at the picture again. That is going to be a prize when it's finished.


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[kd0afk]

Thanks, the shop I'm in belongs to Isaac Fischer.
A little back story; for about 20 years I have seen, admired and wanted a hock plane kit from Woodcraft tools. I never got the funds together but I've always wanted one or several.
Half way through the build I walk in to the shop and see a hundred blocks of bubinga that have been machined in a very specific and familiar manner. I made a comment about how they look like the hock plane kits. Isaac is the creator of that kit. Im basically working with and getting help from an idol of mine. He is a graduate of the fine woodworker course here in Fort Bragg and studied under Mr Krenov personally.
He made a deal me, when I buy hock plane irons he will give me the wood part of the kits. He also created the "scratch stock" and gave me his prototype. I used it to put the quirk bead on all the drawers.

 

[barnesrickw]

They grow some of that wood in New Jersey, but it's called bada-bubinga. I made a few of my planes. One Japanese with an iron from Japan Woodworker, and one Smoother, Krenov ish.


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[kd0afk]

Bada-bubinga lol