Central Machinery Multipurpose Tool Model 5890

[Apetrunk]

Hello. I recently found out my school has the above mentioned lathe/drill press thing and I'm being allowed to use it. The only problem is that it isn't spinning fast enough to do what I want, and I can't find any documentation to tell me how to loosen the belt so that I can change the speed on it. Help?

 

[ke7hr]

Which function are you trying to change, the mill or the lathe?

FIRST, UNPLUG THE MACHINE. Not doing so, may put your fingers at risk!

On either one to move the belt to a different pulley set, the belt is given a bit of tension to put it on the next smallest step in the direction you want to go while rotating the mill or lathe head. Then, move the opposite end to the next larger pulley which re-tensions it. Keep the belt level as you make adjustments, no matter how many steps you need to move. The belt should only be tightened to the point where a finger in the middle of the belt run can deflect it about a half an inch or so.

There are three speeds on the lathe and five on the mill. Mine runs faster than the listed speeds, as measured by an optical tachometer.

For information, the manual is available on line at:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/manuals.taf?f=form&ItemID=5980
though, it is not very helpful in this regard.

If you need more help than this, I can take photos of mine.

 

[Apetrunk]

Yeah we have that manual but it doesn't help.

I know what needs to be done to change speeds, but I don't know how to relieve some of the tension on the belt to move it at all.

 

[ke7hr]

The belt tensioning for the mill head is done by three hold down bolts (in red highlight on the image below) and a tensioning bolt (in yellow highlight on the image below). UNPLUG THE MACHINE! Loosten the three bolts and adjust the belt tension. It should be just tight enough to allow stepping up and down the pulley stack, but not so loose the belt slips under load. See images below for no tension and slight thumb tension of the belt.

Step the belt up to the next highest (smaller) pulley on the spindle end, then step the belt up to the next biggest pulley on the motor end (or reverse to go from top to bottom).

 

[ke7hr]

The lathe adjusting is similar to the mill. UNPLUG THE MACHINE!

The lathe tension bolt is outside the pulley cover by the motor itself. See the yellow highlighted bolt in the image below. Adjust the bolt to tension the belts on the pulleys just like the mill head - just so that the tension is enough to allow the belts to be stepped up and down as needed to change the speed.

 

[ke7hr]

I think that finger slips got the part number for the machine, it probably is a 5980.

My motor turns slightly faster than the nameplate which means the pulley speeds are slightly different than the listed values.

On my lathe:
Step 1 listed 500 measured 690
Step 2 listed 900 measured 1125
Step 3 listed 1600 measured 2105

On my mill:
Step 1 listed 430 measured 600
Step 2 listed 800 measured 1050
Step 3 listed 1050 measured 1375
Step 4 listed 1500 measured 1900

 

[Apetrunk]

Thanks a ton man. I got the belt switched to another pulley and put all back together successfully.

Now, I am trying to mount my yoyo in the claws so I can modify it, but I can't get it in there perfectly so it wobbles around every time. Any ideas on how to get it to be exactly centered?

 

[ke7hr]

I expect that you are trying to use the lathe to turn your "yo-yo". The jaws of the chuck should be centered when completely closed. If not, then run them all the way out until they are loose from the internal screw - don't allow them to fall out. Re-tighten again to check if the jaws meet exactly at the center.

Do you have a photo of what you are trying to turn?
What turning tools will you be using?
Is there a teacher involved?

 

[black85vette]

3 jaw chuck or 4 jaw? Is the Yo-Yo plastic or metal?

 

[ke7hr]

How's the project going? Any pictures of what you are trying to do?

 

[Apetrunk]

Sorry, I completely forgot about this.

I know what you're saying with making sure they're aligned.. I'll try that.

3 jaw, and it's plastic. That part won't matter much though because my chemistry teacher just said to make sure to cut it instead of shave(?) it.

I haven't messed with it for a few days because I have been busy, but I'll be using some metal cutting tools the lathe came with.

I don't have any pictures, but I could probably get some if you want. Not hard to do if you're interested.

 

[ke7hr]

Yes, pictures would be good and a description of what you have and what it wants to become.

Metal working tools can work on many plastics, but others have internal stresses and will shatter or just fall apart.

 

[Tin Falcon]

Metal working tools are fine with plastics. a couple a caravats here.
make sure you have real cutting tools here I bought some HF lathe tools that were pretty much useless out of the box you need to have some relief angles on things.
plastics cut easily but can build up heat quickly this is a bad thing you want to cut the plastic not melt it.
Some plastics can produce long stringy chips that get tangled in things. Stop the machine and clear the chips often.
Do not try to clear the chip with the lathe running the chips could grab your hand and drag it into the spindle.
Work safe
there are some safety rules tips in the safety area you may want to read.
Tin

 

[Apetrunk]

Thanks for the safety information, but it is my chemistry teacher helping with this, and he's one of 3 chemistry honorees or something in the state, so I'd say he knows his stuff. Thanks though.

 

[Alf]

I own one of these machines. It is a waste of time to loosen the tensioners unless the belt is too loose overall. Just spin off to the smaller pulley in whichever direction you are going. Keep the bed away from the end of the ways(z Axis for lathe, X Axis for mill), or it will lose considerable accuracy. I have in practice turned a shaft down to 5 ten thousandths over 6 inches, but it's not a machine that's meant to last, so over time it will need adjustment and replacement parts, and generally new parts made from scratch. There are not really Gibbs on the screws, so for practical use, these must be added. This is a tool that works well for learning machining, but not a machinist's tool. Once you have readily used real machinery, you will learn that it's only suited to roughing, and anchoring marine vessels.

 

[bsankey]

Hi,
I see there are some pictures of the Harbor Freight Multi-Tool Mill/Lathe on this thread. I just got one of these but the head was removed and the wires pulled out of the plastic block on the motor. I have no clue how the wires go back in, the manual shows the wiring diagram but no color coding....Go figure.

Would it be possible to get a picture of that block so I don't fry my motor?? Or maybe a description of the sequence the wires go back into that block?? I am not finding much help on the net for this and Harbor Freight is no help.

I hope someone out there can help!!!


Thanks!!->Bob

 

[Tin Falcon]

Bob it would be helpful if you post a picture of your machine and also post an introduction in the welcome area. Not against the rules to post a question before an intro but people are more likely to help if we know a little bit about you your shop and your interest in model engines.
Tin

 

[Tin Falcon]

Bob if in doubt consult a local motor shop.

In general practice green wire is ground.
or sometimes green and yellow.
US colors black is hot white neutral
EU brown is hot blue neutral.

The terminals may be marked line and neutral