Buzz Saw
- Thread starter Brian Rupnow
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To print any of these drawings, click on the actual drawing on your computer screen---That will take you to Photobucket. Choose "download" option from upper right corner. This will download the picture, then you can print it on whatever size paper your printer has. Good Luck!! Let me know if you build one. I take no responsibility for cut fingers!!!---Brian
Went down street this morning and invested a whole $11.87 on a blade. ---And by the way, the blade is 0.036" thick at the hub area. The carbide teeth are .063" wide.
That's enough building for one day. I have enough assembled now to test run this thing. No point in spending time on the frame if the saw doesn't cut the way I want it to. I am not terribly impressed by the "look" of the sawblade. I think a slitting saw would have been closer to the look of a real buzz saw blade. Oh well, I only paid $11 for this blade. If it cuts okay, I probably won't change it.
The blade most definitely cuts!!! It cuts very well too, and doesn't seem to put any strain on the mill. Probably tomorrow I will jerry rig the blade and arbor up to some kind of stand and drive it with my side valve engine just to be absolutely sure. Assuming the test is successful, I think I will bolt two pieces of 1/4" plate together and cut out both sets of frames at the same time. Since both frames have material to be cut away from the 'inside' of the perimeter, I may use my sabre saw with a metal cutting blade to cut away most of the inside material, then finish up on the mill. I can cut the outside of the frames with my bandsaw, then clean up on the mill.
Brian,
My Grandparents (Mom's side) had 50 acres up in the mountains and lived up there full time. He used a 1936 Graham automobile with an angle drive rear differential (one side cut off on the passenger side). The blade ~24" maybe bigger, was mounted to a flange directly off that short side. It had a wooden sled mounted on the back of the bare car frame where the wood was placed for cutting. The sled had a long piece of rubber inner tube running to the throttle. 2nd gear, low engine speed was how he used it when cutting. It's still up there last time I looked. I'll have to take a ride up there this spring and take a couple of pictures.
If I remember right the car was my Father's High School car before. I might be wrong about the year but the pictures will tell the story when I post them.
Rich
My Grandparents (Mom's side) had 50 acres up in the mountains and lived up there full time. He used a 1936 Graham automobile with an angle drive rear differential (one side cut off on the passenger side). The blade ~24" maybe bigger, was mounted to a flange directly off that short side. It had a wooden sled mounted on the back of the bare car frame where the wood was placed for cutting. The sled had a long piece of rubber inner tube running to the throttle. 2nd gear, low engine speed was how he used it when cutting. It's still up there last time I looked. I'll have to take a ride up there this spring and take a couple of pictures.
If I remember right the car was my Father's High School car before. I might be wrong about the year but the pictures will tell the story when I post them.
Rich
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News is not good this morning!! Saw is jerry-rigged to side valve engine. My first problem was keeping the darned belt aligned so it wouldn't fly off as soon as the saw came under load. Many of the partial cuts in the wooden dowel are a result of the belt flying off as the saw reached the heaviest part of the cut. Then when I finally got things moved around to where the belt wouldn't fly off, the engine just ran out of power and stalled about half way thru the "log". I have to ponder this now for a while. I think the sawblade at 1/16" wide is too wide for this set up. Or--the pulley on the saw is too small and needs to be bumped up in size. I didn't want to do that, because I am trying to keep the saw pulley the same size as the saw hub so the log doesn't rub on the drive belt. Or--I need a more powerful engine. The likeliest bet, and the least work for me, is to find a thinner saw blade. As I said in an earlier post, those blades come in 3 packs, which I didn't look at. There may be a thinner, finer toothed blade in the 3 pack. I will investigate this tomorrow. EDIT---I just tried a 1" balsa "log" and the saw goes thru it like poop thru a goose!!!
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Time for some "outhouse math". I just googled it, and linear blade speed should optimally be 150 foot per second. My engine is running at 1500 RPM. My blade is 3.375" diameter running at approximately 3000 rpm. 3.1416 x 3.375=10.6"=0.88 feet per revolution. 3000 RPM divided by 60=50 revolutions per second. 50 RPS x .88 feet=44 linear feet per second. Jason you are right--Looks like my sawblade should be turning almost 3 times faster than it currently is, unless I have bumbled the math.---Brian
http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/2226-at-what-speed-should-my-saw-blades-spin-
http://joneakes.com/jons-fixit-database/2226-at-what-speed-should-my-saw-blades-spin-
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I am not surprised, I have a similar blade 5" a bit less that 0.062 kerf and use it on the mill to cut aluminum 1" thick with no problem other than a racket. I do not own any kind of power metal saw. I cut 1/2" aluminum on the 10" table saw almost 1/3 as fast as hardwood, teeth clenched all the way tough.
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Your blade is roughly 1:10 scale of a 34" blade; such full scale blade would have a thickness of 5/8" and most likely bog down the full scale engine as well.
Makita also sells a 44 tooth blade which has a center hole to fit the saw arbor I made. (The blade I have, which is VERY aggresive has 24 teeth.) I will call tomorrow and order the 44 tooth blade.---There is a picture of it in the link.
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005BTM0YE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B005BTM0YE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
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And that, my friend is what a whole days work looks like!! Both end frames are finished, the 1/4" diameter cross ties are finished, and I have put a 1 degree crown on the pulley to help keep the belt on it. All the stores are closed here today for a provincial holiday, so I couldn't order my new blade. All the companies I normally do business with are closed today, and wife is at work, so I played all day in my shop!!
I have decided that the buzz saw really needs a base which can be screwed or bolted to the table-top for actual running. So--the clearance holes which were originally called up in the underside of the endstands have changed to #5-40 tapped holes, and a 1/4" thick baseplate has been added to allow me to firmly attach this saw to my test bench for running.
There we have it with 1" diameter log. Carriage swung out to receive log and carriage swung fully in to cut position. All I have left to build is the "swing limiter strap". I ordered a new fine toothed blade this morning.
I'm finished!!! The bar which limits the amount of "swing out" of the log carriage is finished and installed. Now I have to be honest with you---I've built a lot of models of many different things in the last five years. This, however, is the only model I have built that actually frightens me a bit. The original buzz saws, were horribly dangerous. People worked with them every day, and let me tell you---You had to be VERY aware of where that saw blade was and where your hands were at all times. It was unusual, but grizzly accidents did occasionally happen with them. ------------And this little saw is no different!!! I own a skill saw, a sabre saw, a chainsaw, a table saw, and a bandsaw.--I am very aware of the safety requirements when using them, and fortunately I still have all of my fingers. I will put a new fine tooth blade on this model saw, will power it up long enough to make a video of it working, and then will sigh with relief when it goes up 'on the shelf" with all my other models!!!
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Brian,
There are more modern versions with blade guards.
http://www.newhavenpower.com/Woodsman250_Buzz_Saw.html
But, I do understand your model to be a version of what most people had through the years.
I have enjoyed this project and I may build it myself some day. (Like yours, to look at.)
--ShopShoe
There are more modern versions with blade guards.
http://www.newhavenpower.com/Woodsman250_Buzz_Saw.html
But, I do understand your model to be a version of what most people had through the years.
I have enjoyed this project and I may build it myself some day. (Like yours, to look at.)
--ShopShoe
If I have done this correctly, this link should get you a download of all the drawings.---Brian
http://www.mediafire.com/download/qaq9xdu4i1cqcsq/MODEL_BUZZ_SAW.zip
http://www.mediafire.com/download/qaq9xdu4i1cqcsq/MODEL_BUZZ_SAW.zip
The "broom tree" I showed was actually a piece of 1" diameter wooden dowel from the lumberyard. They said that it was kiln dried poplar, but it seems to be harder than any poplar that I have experience with. I tried to buy a 1" softwood (pine or spruce) dowel, but wouldn't you know it, they don't carry softwood dowel!! Not to be outdone by adversity, I grabbed a couple of short pieces of spruce from my "wood scrap pile" (yes, I have one of them to) and made my own 1" softwood dowels. This yielded a nice little pile of 'cord-wood" to try out with my buzz saw when the new blade arrives.
