Building the Felgiebel

[rweber]

Putting them between centers to turn them one by one.

 

[rweber]

Adjusting the support for turning the cone.

 

[rweber]

Turning the bushes, made of RG7. Heating up a the crankcase and they will slip in like a charm.

 

[rweber]

Finally shorten the cases to the desired length.

 

[rweber]

Align and scharpen the grinder

 

[rweber]

Some more turning, and the crankshafts are ready to be checked against the bushes.

 

[rweber]

As the support is already in the angle for the taper, turn the propeller driver disc.

 

[rweber]

...and drill the holes.

 

[rweber]

Now moving back to the crankshafts, turning them into final length.

 

[rweber]

Finally created a little helper tool for turning the crankshaft pin. Then the weekend was sadly over

 

[rweber]

Turning the crankshafts pin, leaving 4/10 plus for later griding after tempering.

 

[rweber]

Forming the counterweight

 

[rweber]

Just back from vacation, and right into the workshop. After riding my motor bike two weeks across Sardegna it's time to be productive again I'm continuing the build process with a not to difficult part. The connecting rod. Made of C45 with RG7 bushes.

View attachment 102366

cheers,
Robert

 

[rweber]

Finally I found some time to continue with the Felgiebels. I started making the piston rings. According to the book, Felgiebel itself bought them from a model store, made of cast iron. After finishing a first try ring, it turned out, that the ring must be bent very far to slip over the piston. This is too much for a normal, untreated cast iron. The ring will not spring back into its original position. It will remain deformed and the pressure to the cylinder will be too much, in my opinnion. Fortuntely I used GGG60 cast iron which can be excellent hardened and tempered. The termpering temperature is suprisingly high at about 550°C.

 

[rweber]

Some time was left, so I continued building the piston. I modified the inner construction compared to the original. Felgiebel turned the inner side, leaving less bearing surface (about 1.5mm each side) for the piston pin and some kind of Pilz (german word) to fix them. I milled an oval to the inner side to give more bearing surface and used the usual clips to fix the pin.

Not finished to far, next step will be to mill the nose.

 

[Cymro77]

Amazing! I must be on the wrong site!! This looks like professional work.

 

[rweber]

Ok, here we go again. Finishing Pistons, forming the nose.

and the nuts for the piston rings.

and the very tiny nuts for the pin.

 

[rweber]

Machining the piston pins

pre-turning the silver-steel material, and drill a hole inside.

After harden and tempering, checking concentricity accuracy.
Light taps with the hammer will fix it, if necessary ;-)

Finally grinding

 

[rweber]

Next step is to build the contact breaker. I start with the holder, made from 1.5 steel. I welded a package of 4 pieces together for better mechining and to save some time, too. This would be a job for a EDM. But I don't have one. Therefore a mill must do the job.

Looks not too bad

Bendig to its final shape.

After sandblasting it looks like this:

Quickly turn the isolators, made of PVC

Done, so far.

 

[rweber]

Next piece to make is the contact holder. Made of a sheet of brass, reinfoced with a silber soldered strip, also made of brass.

The contacts itself are made of silver steel.

and are rivedted to the holder.