Broken tap removal tip

[Spikie1]

A cheap and easy to construct tap removal tool can be made using a tap the same size as the one you have just broke 2 nuts with the same thread 3 or 4 small Allen keys depending on how many flutes your broken tap had you wind the two nuts onto the unbroken tap and slide the Allen keys into the gap where the flutes are and wind out .
Just remember to clear out any broken pieces of tap and swarf before starting

 

[George_Race]

That is a really neat idea!
I suppose instead of using allen keys you could also use a couple of number sized drills that would fit as well.

Thanks for the tip, as a newbie in the hobby I am sure I will need it some day.
George

 

[mklotz]

Now all we need is a clever way to get the broken, wedged in place, Allen wrenches out. Can you say EDM? ;D

Seriously, I've attempted to use the commercial versions of this style of tap remover and have yet to have one of them work.

 

[Arnak]

Hi,

Has anyone tried solid carbide drills in a dremel or similar to drill the main part of the tap out?

Martin

 

[Rayanth]

Experience at work (I build airplanes) has taught me that your mileage will vary widely if you try to drill out a broken anything. Depending on the topography of the break, it is likely to throw your drill off center, and thus risk ruining the sides of the hole. In an industry where precision is everything, this is a huge mono, so we have to come up with other methods.

One trick is to use a sacrifical drill bit or drill rod slightly smaller than the one used to drill the hole initially, and put some very strong loctite on the end. Feed it int the whole so it comes in contact with the broken piece, and let cure (hope you don't get any on the threads or sides of the hole). Carefully back it out once it's cured.

Another trick we use for broken drill bits is to vibrate (by use of a rivet gun usually), the metal near the hole, and it works itself out...that wouldn't work for a tap though.

Ryan

 

[Foozer]

Experience at work (I build airplanes) has taught me that your mileage will vary widely if you try to drill out a broken anything.

Ryan

Funny, starting to remember those days, broken 30 bits off of porkchops back-drilling stringer splice replacements. Having to drill out those occasional long hilocks (6K20) that refuse to sink into that tight hole. More than one Rt sent back for oversize to the point of just going OOPS I accidentally drilled that .187 hole to .199 my ****oo

I thought I knew until the world of broken 2-56 taps. Its all good fun tho

Robert

 

[Rayanth]

Funny, starting to remember those days, broken 30 bits off of porkchops back-drilling stringer splice replacements. Having to drill out those occasional long hilocks (6K20) that refuse to sink into that tight hole. More than one Rt sent back for oversize to the point of just going OOPS I accidentally drilled that .187 hole to .199 my ****oo

I thought I knew until the world of broken 2-56 taps. Its all good fun tho

Robert

Shoot, those are all minor oopses compared to the guy who works opposite my bar. Countersinking the wrong holes, drilling extra holes, drilling a 371 that should have stayed at 247... every part that we have to replace with a modified version gets a -m added to the part number..... his nickname is "dash m". He hates it, but still hasn't learned...meanwhile, i'm doing the exact same operations, for a quarter the time he's been at it, and no mistakes. I'm on to other things, he's still fixing his mistakes. Slow and steady wins the race, at the lazy B =)

- Ryan

 

[TroyO]

Hahaha, I may just have to start adding -M to everything I make now.... :big:

No serial number or part number.... just -M .....