Absolutely beautiful !! Thank you for sharing.
curious as to your method/technique as related to welding on the 'features' on the 'tank' (not sure as to what to call it - - - the black cylinder) - - please?Greetings, some more pictures of where I am at with the LaFrance project. Was able to finish the rear suspension this afternoon. Next is the assembly of the pump and associated plumbing.
Thanks!!Absolutely, the black cylinder is the boiler for the steam engines that will operate the positive displacement pump. I used TIG (tungsten inert gas) welding techniques. The entire boiler is made of steel except for the flu tubes. They are copper and “rolled” into place. Various bushings were made for the many fittings that will be on the boiler. The bushings were also TIG welded into place. I hope this answers you question.
Very useful - - - thanks for sharing.Thank you for your kind comments. You are correct on all your points. Right now all my plating is nickel. I would have to set up a complete different tank assembly because I am sure there would be cross contamination.
The plating solution is made up of Nickel crystals and distilled water. The bath setup I have is 2 gallons of solution. The anode is a strip of pure nickel wrapped in gauze and connected to the positive side of the DC Power supply. The cathode is the piece being plated and is connected to the negative side of the power supply. I run the bath at around 115-120 degrees Fahrenheit. The voltage, amperage and time in the plating solution varies according to the size of the Part being plated. I hang the part on a piece of copper wire and then hang that on the copper wire that is between the two brass rods. The main factor that I found out is the pieces need to be very clean and free of any grease, oil or finger prints.
If you or anyone else has any suggestions or helpful hints, please share. This is still all black magic to me.
Cheers, Larry
I buy all of my nickel plating supplies online from Caswell Plating. Their somewhat expensive plating manual is worth the asking price. Their plating supplies are reasonably priced and work surprisingly well. Cleanliness and controlling the plating bath temperature and plating current are important details.Thank you for your kind comments. You are correct on all your points. Right now all my plating is nickel. I would have to set up a complete different tank assembly because I am sure there would be cross contamination.
The plating solution is made up of Nickel crystals and distilled water. The bath setup I have is 2 gallons of solution. The anode is a strip of pure nickel wrapped in gauze and connected to the positive side of the DC Power supply. The cathode is the piece being plated and is connected to the negative side of the power supply. I run the bath at around 115-120 degrees Fahrenheit. The voltage, amperage and time in the plating solution varies according to the size of the Part being plated. I hang the part on a piece of copper wire and then hang that on the copper wire that is between the two brass rods. The main factor that I found out is the pieces need to be very clean and free of any grease, oil or finger prints.
If you or anyone else has any suggestions or helpful hints, please share. This is still all black magic to me.
Cheers, Larry
Well, the top end is starting to shape up very nicely.This past weekend was spent trying to design a belt that holds the rubber tubes in place in their respective cradle. When I built the cradles I solder a piece of brass tubing .062 OD with a .032 ID to the front and back edges of the cradle. I finally came up with an idea of making a small bending jig to bend .032 diameter brass rod to fit into the tubing. The attached pictures can explain it better. The leather is pig skin. Very thin and pliable and extremely strong. I used 2 jump rings to weave the leather through just like the an old fashion belt buckle.
Enter your email address to join: