A V8 Maybe

[dsage]

Metalmad:

Not sure how I missed this whole thread but I've been looking through it with great interest. Fantastic work !!!

I'm interested in your pistons. I've done a bit of casting myself and although you have apparently used aluminum previously from pistons I'm wondering if you shouldn't revert to billet 2024 or other suitable billet material. Once you melt the aluminum you may not have the same alloy as some components may burn off. But what's more important is you have lost all of the heat treatment of the alloy. You might have noticed that the castings are quite soft. For a piston this may be a problem. I would not consider casting rods because you WILL require the stiffness of of a properly heat treated material.
T6511 or T4xx etc.

I just thought I'd throw that out for comments from others before you get too far on the heavily stressed components.
Not sure what your plans were.

Sage

 

[metalmad]

HI Sage
One of the nice things about a permanent mold is the alli freezes almost instantly and can be poured again as soon as it is striped and your left with a nice hard piston with ready made internals.
Unfortunately I had used what piston stock I had before I thought of making my own pistons out of them. The inlet manifold I made out of the pistons is lovely and hard by the way :hDe:
Pete

 

[dsage]

Hi Pete:

No need to hide under the chair.
I would highly recommend billet for your rods at least. There's a lot of stress going on there. I have a model here with the results of a rod through both sides of the block.
Several articles were written about the "Olympus engine" in Model Engineer magazine.
I'm the custodian of it since Albert Hutton passed away.
It's worth a look at it running. Click on "watch the engine run..." below the big pictures in the link below. It may take a while to load. Very impressive - and scary actually.
It's idles (poorly) at 8,ooo rpm and goes up from there in a blink.

http://davesage.ca/engine4.html

A rod blew out of it at 23,000 rpm when it was producing about 5hp.

Nice work on your engine.
I'll be watching with great interest.

Sage

 

[trumpy81]

Hi Pete:

No need to hide under the chair.
I would highly recommend billet for your rods at least. There's a lot of stress going on there. I have a model here with the results of a rod through both sides of the block.
Several articles were written about the "Olympus engine" in Model Engineer magazine.
I'm the custodian of it since Albert Hutton passed away.
It's worth a look at it running. Click on "watch the engine run..." below the big pictures in the link below. It may take a while to load. Very impressive - and scary actually.
It's idles (poorly) at 8,ooo rpm and goes up from there in a blink.

http://davesage.ca/engine4.html

A rod blew out of it at 23,000 rpm when it was producing about 5hp.

Nice work on your engine.
I'll be watching with great interest.

Sage

Sage are there any plans/drawings available for the Olympus?

 

[dsage]

Sorry to say, no.
Albert built it all from hand sketches. He handed over some of his rough information years ago to someone in England who did make castings and drawings with the intent of selling them. There turned out to be problems with the molds. Something about making them the wrong size to allow for proper shrinkage. I think that ended the endeavor. The guy that was doing them was quite elderly and could not continue. Those plans etc. were for the 2-valve per cylinder version. Albert updated it later to 4-valves per cylinder.
Since I've had it, Mike Rehmus (Model Engine Builder) was after me to take it apart and model the whole thing. I won't do that, and the owner - Albert's Daughter would not allow it either. (I just fixed it up for her so she could hand it down to her son - someday. I've had it for a few years now). It would probably never run again. It is unbelievably complex. Just the miniature Weber DCOE carburetors are watch works. I've had them apart but I still have problems with them overflowing. You can see gas dripping from one of them in the video. It's either that or they don't get enough fuel to feed the VERY hungry beast.
Most of what you see in the video is the dyno (electric). The engine is dwarfed by the rest of the setup. He was able to get a proven 6hp from it at 23,000 rpm. Amazing for a 4-stroke overhead cam 4-valve per cylinder engine. As mentioned, somewhere along the way he accidently over-revved it and threw a rod through both sides of the block. it surprisingly didn't damage anything else. He fixed it and later set that record performance. All of this and more was written up in both Strictly IC and Model Engineer. Excellent reading if you want to see what it takes to make a truly high performance model.

Sorry, I digress from the thread.

We haven't heard from Pete in a while.

Enjoy.


Sage
http://davesage.ca

 

[metalmad]

I started on the valve cages today, $25 bucks a stick for the bronze and I need two :wall:
The price of bronze is just silly!!
Pete

 

[Motormagican]

Hello Pete, sure like the progress you are making. It all is great craftsmanship. Great looking parts.

 

[metalmad]

Hi Danny, Sorry about taking so long to reply but just was not feeling up to it
I started on the Crank yesterday but as usual the plan set was all over the place, the mains for instance given as 3/8 on one sheet and half inch on another.:wall:
Pete

 

[canadianhorsepower]

hope you feel better nice to see some picsThm:

 

[metalmad]

Hi Thanks for the well wishes Luc ;D
Ive roughed out the mains now 20 thou over.
Pete

 

[metalmad]

I just could not resist making sure it fits ;D
Pete

 

[metalmad]

After a whole lot of soul searching ive taken the mains out to half inch, that will make the webs .250 and outerwebs .375. Today I took the first journal down to about 30 thou over.
Feeling the Stress guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pete

 

[canadianhorsepower]

It's comming along good Thm:
how long is your crank shaft?

 

[metalmad]

Hi Luc
so far Im planing on about 300 mm but I may shorten that down the track a bit.
Pete

 

[Motormagican]

Good Day Pete, sure looks like you have your work cou out. Looks like you solved the crankshaft plan issue. Looking real good. Take care, Danny

 

[jwcnc1911]

Is that a clausing 1300 or 1301 lathe? Nive work by the way!

 

[metalmad]

Hi Danny, Ive finish turned the first journal now and hope to start on the next tomorrow arvo
Hi Jw
The only marking on my old girl is model 17-DF made in 1990, somebody said they thought it was korean but I dont know a lot about it Im afraid. Ive never been able to find a web site for it unfortunetly
Pete

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Hi Pete, what's the specs of that lathe I think I have a link
for it The white base and blue stripe look familiar

 

[metalmad]

Hi Luc
I was able to make a copy of a small manual for the
SSB-17DA-F which I think is for my lathe and it says the distance between centers is 40" with a swing over bed of 14".
I did a little more on the crank today and hope to get the big ends done this week. Then Ill rest the Crank for a week before taking the mains down to depth.
Pete

 

[metalmad]

Hi guys
A little more work on the big ends and im almost ready to move over to the mill.
Pete