A small steam engine
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Hi
Again thanks for the encouragement :bow: :bow: :bow:
I have started on the water guage for the boiler. The bottom connection I made by drilling 1/8 a piece of 5/16 round brass. I used an end mill to finish and flat bottom the hole. Thread 1/4 x 40.
In the mill cross drill and tap.
Thread a length of 1/4 brass rod and drill through clearance for the 5/32 glass tube.
Part off a short piece and screw into the body. Leave about a 1/4 inch of thread. Silver solder in then part off in the lathe.
The top connection is made in a similar fashion but must be bored through clearance for the glass tube. The body is longer and drilled and tapped 1/4 x 40 in the top to accept a bung after the glass has been fitted.
A trial fit in the boiler. The connections will have thin lock nuts on the thread that screws into the boiler so that they can be alogned then locked in place.
Atrial fit of the glass tube. Its a good idea to use a bit of 5/32 steel or brass rod while aligning the connections.
Cheers
Rich
Again thanks for the encouragement :bow: :bow: :bow:
I have started on the water guage for the boiler. The bottom connection I made by drilling 1/8 a piece of 5/16 round brass. I used an end mill to finish and flat bottom the hole. Thread 1/4 x 40.
In the mill cross drill and tap.
Thread a length of 1/4 brass rod and drill through clearance for the 5/32 glass tube.
Part off a short piece and screw into the body. Leave about a 1/4 inch of thread. Silver solder in then part off in the lathe.
The top connection is made in a similar fashion but must be bored through clearance for the glass tube. The body is longer and drilled and tapped 1/4 x 40 in the top to accept a bung after the glass has been fitted.
A trial fit in the boiler. The connections will have thin lock nuts on the thread that screws into the boiler so that they can be alogned then locked in place.
Atrial fit of the glass tube. Its a good idea to use a bit of 5/32 steel or brass rod while aligning the connections.
Cheers
Rich
Hi
Thanks Bill
Giles, I have some 'O' rings that slip over the tube and are squashed by the nuts. I also have some soft silicon tube that can have pieces sliced off to make the seals, I saw this method being used somewhere but can't remember where i saw it now. I'll try both methods and see which one works best.
Cheers
Rich
Thanks Bill
Giles, I have some 'O' rings that slip over the tube and are squashed by the nuts. I also have some soft silicon tube that can have pieces sliced off to make the seals, I saw this method being used somewhere but can't remember where i saw it now. I'll try both methods and see which one works best.
Cheers
Rich
Imagine a electric cable gland, it has a little taper to the gland side and the nut has one in the opposite direction. In the middle there is a rubber ring (substitute with Teflon). When you tighten it compresses the seal against the cable (tube) ;D
Hi
Its been a while since I have managed to get anything done but today saw me with a good few hours in the shop so some progress was made.
I have finished the water guage. The 2 nuts shown in previous photos were 2 I already had but the hole was too big so I had to make 2 new ones that suit the glass I am using. I won't bore you with photos of how to make a nut but show just one which is a tap that I have ground flat which allows me, carefully, to tap almost to the bottom of holes.
I then made 2 thin lock nuts and a bung. Heres all the parts with the yet uncut glass tube.
Lining up the top and bottom fittings with a drill.
Cutting the glass is fairly easy. Use a diamond file to mark all round the glass.
Then snap off.
Heat the ends of the glass to remove any sharp edges, this also strengthens the glass and prevents breakage.
Fitted into the boiler.
When all the fittings are in I will hydraulic test again to check for leaks.
I have started making a displacement lubricator. Photos and description to follow, hopefully tonight.
Cheers
Rich
Its been a while since I have managed to get anything done but today saw me with a good few hours in the shop so some progress was made.
I have finished the water guage. The 2 nuts shown in previous photos were 2 I already had but the hole was too big so I had to make 2 new ones that suit the glass I am using. I won't bore you with photos of how to make a nut but show just one which is a tap that I have ground flat which allows me, carefully, to tap almost to the bottom of holes.
I then made 2 thin lock nuts and a bung. Heres all the parts with the yet uncut glass tube.
Lining up the top and bottom fittings with a drill.
Cutting the glass is fairly easy. Use a diamond file to mark all round the glass.
Then snap off.
Heat the ends of the glass to remove any sharp edges, this also strengthens the glass and prevents breakage.
Fitted into the boiler.
When all the fittings are in I will hydraulic test again to check for leaks.
I have started making a displacement lubricator. Photos and description to follow, hopefully tonight.
Cheers
Rich
Hi
I can take no credit at all for this displacement lubricator, its one of John Bogstandards designs. He has been of great help during the course of making it. Many thanks John :bow: :bow: :bow:
A piece of 3/8 dia round brass in the lathe. Drilled to a depth of 15/16. I have a set of tapping size drills that I have ground to a flat which enables me to flat bottom holes. Not altogether nec on this job but will slightly increase the capacity.
Then tap for about a 1/4 inch. Here I am using the ground off tap to get a full thread for all of the 1/4 inch tapped.
Move to the mill and cross drill 3/32.
A piece of 3/32 copper pipe in the mill. Touch with a centre drill.
Then drill 0.7mm through one side only. Don't drill right through.
The chamber.
The cross tube. I didn't notice it rolled over the dimension. It can be seen on a later photo.
Drill 3/32 a piece of 3/16 round brass. Cuntersink the end with a centre drill. This will accept the pipe nipple. Thread the end for 3/16 (not shown) then part off to 1/2 inch. Make 2 of these.
Move to the mill and with a 3/8 cutter ( the same size as the chamber) round the ends.
The 2 parts.
Push the copper tube through the chamber with the hole uppermost. Push the 2 brass connectors onto the copper tube.
The filler bung is made from a piece of 3/8 stainless steel round bar.
Knurl
Turn down and thread 5/16 then cut the groove for the 'O' ring.
Use a round profile tool then part off.
The finished part.
Fitted in the chamber.
Its in the pickle now. Hopefully I'll get time tomorrow to silver solder it all together.
Cheers
Rich
I can take no credit at all for this displacement lubricator, its one of John Bogstandards designs. He has been of great help during the course of making it. Many thanks John :bow: :bow: :bow:
A piece of 3/8 dia round brass in the lathe. Drilled to a depth of 15/16. I have a set of tapping size drills that I have ground to a flat which enables me to flat bottom holes. Not altogether nec on this job but will slightly increase the capacity.
Then tap for about a 1/4 inch. Here I am using the ground off tap to get a full thread for all of the 1/4 inch tapped.
Move to the mill and cross drill 3/32.
A piece of 3/32 copper pipe in the mill. Touch with a centre drill.
Then drill 0.7mm through one side only. Don't drill right through.
The chamber.
The cross tube. I didn't notice it rolled over the dimension. It can be seen on a later photo.
Drill 3/32 a piece of 3/16 round brass. Cuntersink the end with a centre drill. This will accept the pipe nipple. Thread the end for 3/16 (not shown) then part off to 1/2 inch. Make 2 of these.
Move to the mill and with a 3/8 cutter ( the same size as the chamber) round the ends.
The 2 parts.
Push the copper tube through the chamber with the hole uppermost. Push the 2 brass connectors onto the copper tube.
The filler bung is made from a piece of 3/8 stainless steel round bar.
Knurl
Turn down and thread 5/16 then cut the groove for the 'O' ring.
Use a round profile tool then part off.
The finished part.
Fitted in the chamber.
Its in the pickle now. Hopefully I'll get time tomorrow to silver solder it all together.
Cheers
Rich
zeeprogrammer
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I always enjoy reading your posts. Very good stuff.
So many things for me to learn...if you don't mind...a sentence or two about what a 'displacement lubricator' is, how it works, and why you use it?
Thanks.
So many things for me to learn...if you don't mind...a sentence or two about what a 'displacement lubricator' is, how it works, and why you use it?
Thanks.
Hi Carl
This is my first attempt at a displacement lubricator so if I get this wrong someone here will correct me.
To get lubrication to the internal working parts of a steam engine steam oil is used and mixed with the steam. The idea is you fill the chamber with steam oil, the steam enters one side and a small amount of steam comes out of the small hole and condenses into water which sinks to the bottom of the chamber forcing the steam oil upwards. A small amount of oil then enters the hole and is carried through to the engine with the steam. I think Iv'e got that right.
Cheers
Rich
This is my first attempt at a displacement lubricator so if I get this wrong someone here will correct me.
To get lubrication to the internal working parts of a steam engine steam oil is used and mixed with the steam. The idea is you fill the chamber with steam oil, the steam enters one side and a small amount of steam comes out of the small hole and condenses into water which sinks to the bottom of the chamber forcing the steam oil upwards. A small amount of oil then enters the hole and is carried through to the engine with the steam. I think Iv'e got that right.
Cheers
Rich
Hi
After a night in the pickle its time to silver solder it all together. On John Bogstandards plans he reccomends soldering the copper tube form inside the chamber by placing 2 rings of silver solder wire around the copper tube while pushing it through the chamber. This will prevent too much solder building up on the outside of the chamber and stopping the brass sleeves from making a close fit. Johns lubricator is 1/2 inch dia whereas this one is 3/8. Room inside the chamber is very tight and makes fitting the solder rings a very fiddly job. Tweezers and magnifying lens helped.
Ready for soldering, fluxed and solder rings in place.
After soldering.
Back in the pickle for a couple of hours and then the sleeves can be slodered in place.
Fluxed with solder rings in place.
After soldering.
Its back in the pickle now at least over night and can then be polished.
While the engine was running on air I noticed it had a bit of squeek. The sort of squeek that says give me some oil. I stripped the engine down and inspected it. I noticed that where the spring sits was marking the ally frame so I set it up in the mill and machined a recess with a 1/4 dia cutter. A 1/8 brass washer will give the spring something to rub against.
I have some 1/8 brass washers but unfortunately the outside dia is .258 so won't quite go in the recess. Hows your luck :
: :. The next size up milling cutter I have is 5/16, way to big so I had to reduce the size of the brass washer by mounting 5 of them on 1/8 whit screw with a couple of nuts and shaving a bit off the OD of the washer.
Now it fits.
I intend to be running this engine on steam quite often, any excuse will do. So I need to get some oil into the bearings. I have made a couple of brass oil cups that will fit into the top of the frame directly above the crank bearing and the cylinder pivot with a 1mm hole drilled through to get oil directly into the bearings.
The oil cups are made of 3/16 round brass, drilled through 1mm. Turned down to 5/32 and threaded 5/32 x 40. Part off, reverse in the collet and drill 5/32.
This is where they fit.
Cheers
Rich
After a night in the pickle its time to silver solder it all together. On John Bogstandards plans he reccomends soldering the copper tube form inside the chamber by placing 2 rings of silver solder wire around the copper tube while pushing it through the chamber. This will prevent too much solder building up on the outside of the chamber and stopping the brass sleeves from making a close fit. Johns lubricator is 1/2 inch dia whereas this one is 3/8. Room inside the chamber is very tight and makes fitting the solder rings a very fiddly job. Tweezers and magnifying lens helped.
Ready for soldering, fluxed and solder rings in place.
After soldering.
Back in the pickle for a couple of hours and then the sleeves can be slodered in place.
Fluxed with solder rings in place.
After soldering.
Its back in the pickle now at least over night and can then be polished.
While the engine was running on air I noticed it had a bit of squeek. The sort of squeek that says give me some oil. I stripped the engine down and inspected it. I noticed that where the spring sits was marking the ally frame so I set it up in the mill and machined a recess with a 1/4 dia cutter. A 1/8 brass washer will give the spring something to rub against.
I have some 1/8 brass washers but unfortunately the outside dia is .258 so won't quite go in the recess. Hows your luck :
: :. The next size up milling cutter I have is 5/16, way to big so I had to reduce the size of the brass washer by mounting 5 of them on 1/8 whit screw with a couple of nuts and shaving a bit off the OD of the washer.
Now it fits.
I intend to be running this engine on steam quite often, any excuse will do. So I need to get some oil into the bearings. I have made a couple of brass oil cups that will fit into the top of the frame directly above the crank bearing and the cylinder pivot with a 1mm hole drilled through to get oil directly into the bearings.
The oil cups are made of 3/16 round brass, drilled through 1mm. Turned down to 5/32 and threaded 5/32 x 40. Part off, reverse in the collet and drill 5/32.
This is where they fit.
Cheers
Rich
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