A BEAM ENGINE
- Thread starter firebird
- Start date
Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
Hi
Thanks Arnold, Iowietje, Mike, Tel, & NIck
A little more done tonight. I have made the thingy bit that slides up and down the shaft that has a groove in it for a fork to fit into. I'm sure there's a proper name for it but you will see what I mean.
To start I silver soldered a piece of flat brass 1/4 x 1/8 to the end of a piece of 1/4 round brass. The piece of flat brass ends up at 9/16 so needs to be a little longer to start with.
Mounted in a 1/4 collet in the lathe the piece can be turned to 9/16.
Here the piece is being squared up in the mill vise.
A 1/8 wide slot is milled in each end .2 deep
Next a 1/16 hole is drilled in each side.
Back in the lathe it is drilled 1/8.
A groove is cut with a parting tool and then the piece is parted off.
A trial fit shows the governor in the down position.
And the up position.
Cheers
Rich
Thanks Arnold, Iowietje, Mike, Tel, & NIck
A little more done tonight. I have made the thingy bit that slides up and down the shaft that has a groove in it for a fork to fit into. I'm sure there's a proper name for it but you will see what I mean.
To start I silver soldered a piece of flat brass 1/4 x 1/8 to the end of a piece of 1/4 round brass. The piece of flat brass ends up at 9/16 so needs to be a little longer to start with.
Mounted in a 1/4 collet in the lathe the piece can be turned to 9/16.
Here the piece is being squared up in the mill vise.
A 1/8 wide slot is milled in each end .2 deep
Next a 1/16 hole is drilled in each side.
Back in the lathe it is drilled 1/8.
A groove is cut with a parting tool and then the piece is parted off.
A trial fit shows the governor in the down position.
And the up position.
Cheers
Rich
Hi
No progress over the last couple of days but here's some photos from earlier.
The piston is made of brass. I started by turning down until a nice sliding fit was achieved in the cylinder. I have some sketches somewhere but I can't lay my hands on them at the moment so I'm hoping the pictures will give a good enough account.
I ground a piece of tool steel to cut a couple of oil grooves, about .010 deep and wide.
Drill and tap 1/8 x 40 then counter bore 1/8 about 1/8 deep. The counter bore allows the piston rod to enter which helps to keep things true. All of these operations were carried out without removing the piece from the chuck to maintain concentricity.
A piece of 1/8 stainless steel is threaded 1/8 x 40, held in the tail stock chuck and screwed into the piston tight with a drop of loctite on the thread.
Then the piston is parted off.
Held in the chuck by its piston rod and faced.
The piston rod guide is made up from 2 pieces of aluminium. One piece is mounted on the cylinder with 2 3/32 studs threaded 7BA. The other piece is fixed to the first piece with 2 similar studs. There is a brass guide bush made from 1/4 hex brass screwed into the top. If I remember correctly I used a long 1/8 drill through from the bottom of the cylinder (the bottom cover removed) through the top cover gland and then through the piston rod guide to locate the correct position.
I hope that explains it well enough. If there are any questions just fire away.
Cheers
Rich
No progress over the last couple of days but here's some photos from earlier.
The piston is made of brass. I started by turning down until a nice sliding fit was achieved in the cylinder. I have some sketches somewhere but I can't lay my hands on them at the moment so I'm hoping the pictures will give a good enough account.
I ground a piece of tool steel to cut a couple of oil grooves, about .010 deep and wide.
Drill and tap 1/8 x 40 then counter bore 1/8 about 1/8 deep. The counter bore allows the piston rod to enter which helps to keep things true. All of these operations were carried out without removing the piece from the chuck to maintain concentricity.
A piece of 1/8 stainless steel is threaded 1/8 x 40, held in the tail stock chuck and screwed into the piston tight with a drop of loctite on the thread.
Then the piston is parted off.
Held in the chuck by its piston rod and faced.
The piston rod guide is made up from 2 pieces of aluminium. One piece is mounted on the cylinder with 2 3/32 studs threaded 7BA. The other piece is fixed to the first piece with 2 similar studs. There is a brass guide bush made from 1/4 hex brass screwed into the top. If I remember correctly I used a long 1/8 drill through from the bottom of the cylinder (the bottom cover removed) through the top cover gland and then through the piston rod guide to locate the correct position.
I hope that explains it well enough. If there are any questions just fire away.
Cheers
Rich
Nice work---Good looking governor in progress too!!!!----Brian
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Congratulations, Grandpa---I've got 2 girl grandkids, and its wonderfull.---Brian
zeeprogrammer
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Congratulations Rich!
We had our first granddaughter last September.
You've got some wonderful times coming up (that will/should keep you out of shop). ;D
We had our first granddaughter last September.
You've got some wonderful times coming up (that will/should keep you out of shop). ;D
Hi
Thankyou all very much. I still have the big grin at the moment ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I will have to spend extra time in the shop now, I have 2 years (there abouts) to build her a 2 inch scale steam wagon :
: :
Right then, back to the flyball governor. I need to turn the drive through 90° so a couple 45° bevel gears will be needed. As yet I haven't delved into the art of gear cutting so I had a quick peruse around e bay. I found this set of 8 + 2 pins + 4 shims (4 gears of each size) for £7.39 so ordered them, they arrived today. They are, I believe replacement diff gears for radio controlled cars (so I'm still within the car parts theme, just) and are really well made.
The contents of the packet laid out and the diameters measured.
Heres a shot of the flyball governor next to the gears. 2 of the smaller ones will be about the right scale.
I have started to sketch out the frame I will need.
Cheers
Rich
Thankyou all very much. I still have the big grin at the moment ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I will have to spend extra time in the shop now, I have 2 years (there abouts) to build her a 2 inch scale steam wagon :
: :Right then, back to the flyball governor. I need to turn the drive through 90° so a couple 45° bevel gears will be needed. As yet I haven't delved into the art of gear cutting so I had a quick peruse around e bay. I found this set of 8 + 2 pins + 4 shims (4 gears of each size) for £7.39 so ordered them, they arrived today. They are, I believe replacement diff gears for radio controlled cars (so I'm still within the car parts theme, just) and are really well made.
The contents of the packet laid out and the diameters measured.
Heres a shot of the flyball governor next to the gears. 2 of the smaller ones will be about the right scale.
I have started to sketch out the frame I will need.
Cheers
Rich
Hi
Thanks Kev.
Some more work on the flyball today.
First thing was to make a sketch of where I needed to drill holes in a piece of 3/8 thick x 2 inch aluminum bar that I will make the frame from. Doe's anybody else do it this way??
The 2 gears I'm using by the way have a 3mm hole in the centre, I need a 1/8 hole in at least one of them to fit the shaft. I trashed 2 new 1/8 drills getting through one gear, they are really hard, but got there in the end. The other I shall leave as 3mm and make a shaft to suit.
With the material mounted in the mill I squared up one end.
Then found a datum at the bottom left corner using a laser edge finder then zeroed the dials.
Now using my co ordinate sketch I drilled a series of 1/8 holes.
A rough outline drawn on with a felt tip pen.
Then its a case of join up the holes with a 1/8 cutter.
Which results in a piece close to the drawing.
Two 3/16 holes drilled in line.
I have made 3 bushes from 1/4 phosphor bronze, turned down to 3/16 to give a shoulder and drilled through 1/8.
A trial fit with the drilled out bevel gear.
A 3/16 hole drilled in the back.
Which takes the third bush.
I have turned down the end of a piece of 1/8 stainless steel round bar and pressed the gear onto it.
Cheers
Rich
Thanks Kev.
Some more work on the flyball today.
First thing was to make a sketch of where I needed to drill holes in a piece of 3/8 thick x 2 inch aluminum bar that I will make the frame from. Doe's anybody else do it this way??
The 2 gears I'm using by the way have a 3mm hole in the centre, I need a 1/8 hole in at least one of them to fit the shaft. I trashed 2 new 1/8 drills getting through one gear, they are really hard, but got there in the end. The other I shall leave as 3mm and make a shaft to suit.
With the material mounted in the mill I squared up one end.
Then found a datum at the bottom left corner using a laser edge finder then zeroed the dials.
Now using my co ordinate sketch I drilled a series of 1/8 holes.
A rough outline drawn on with a felt tip pen.
Then its a case of join up the holes with a 1/8 cutter.
Which results in a piece close to the drawing.
Two 3/16 holes drilled in line.
I have made 3 bushes from 1/4 phosphor bronze, turned down to 3/16 to give a shoulder and drilled through 1/8.
A trial fit with the drilled out bevel gear.
A 3/16 hole drilled in the back.
Which takes the third bush.
I have turned down the end of a piece of 1/8 stainless steel round bar and pressed the gear onto it.
Cheers
Rich
Hi
Here's a few photos from earlier. There is a drawing somewhere (I have put it in a safe place). They are of the slide valve being made.
A piece of square brass bar, 3/8 I think, is cleaned up.
Then has a square recess machined in it.
Then a 1/8 slot milled.
A 1/16 slot is milled across.
Machined down to size.
Part off.
The completed slide valve.
Cheers
Rich
Here's a few photos from earlier. There is a drawing somewhere (I have put it in a safe place). They are of the slide valve being made.
A piece of square brass bar, 3/8 I think, is cleaned up.
Then has a square recess machined in it.
Then a 1/8 slot milled.
A 1/16 slot is milled across.
Machined down to size.
Part off.
The completed slide valve.
Cheers
Rich
Hi
Thanks Arnold
I have made a sleeve/spacer from 5/16 round brass, drilled through 1/8 and turned down to 3/16.
Cross drilled and tapped to take a 3mm x .5 grub screw.
A trial fit in the frame using a 1/8 drill as a spindle.
The sleeve/spacer is then silver soldered to the bevel gear.
Back in the lathe held on a length of 1/8 steel rod by its grub screw it can be cleaned up.
Fitted into the frame. Note I now have a lock nut at the top to hold things together.
Cheers
Rich
Thanks Arnold
I have made a sleeve/spacer from 5/16 round brass, drilled through 1/8 and turned down to 3/16.
Cross drilled and tapped to take a 3mm x .5 grub screw.
A trial fit in the frame using a 1/8 drill as a spindle.
The sleeve/spacer is then silver soldered to the bevel gear.
Back in the lathe held on a length of 1/8 steel rod by its grub screw it can be cleaned up.
Fitted into the frame. Note I now have a lock nut at the top to hold things together.
Cheers
Rich
zeeprogrammer
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Cool.
