1/4 Scale Galloway

[gbritnell]

I had a request to see some pictures of the recently completed Galloway engine.
gbritnell

 

[gbritnell]

Here's 4 more.
gbritnell

 

[stevehuckss396]

Good stuff!

 

[kuhncw]

Nice work, George. The quarter scale is my favorite of the various scale versions Richard Shelly produced.

Regards,

Chuck

 

[bronson]

Really nice work. Great looking engine. :bow: :bow:

 

[CMS]

Thanks for the pictures and a very nice job. I'm really looking forward to starting on mine, but I've one more of Joe's Economy kits that I've started on that I think I should finish first. Are there any changes, that you know of, in the drawings since the change of ownership? Also, it looks as if you might not have used a one piece crank. My kit came with a cast steel crank, do the new kits come with one? Again, fine bit of workmanship, hope mine will one day look half as good as yours.

Thanks,

Craig

 

[larry1]

George, This is great work. larry

 

[cfellows]

That's a great looking engine, George. What's the bore and stroke? Are castings still available for that?

Chuck

 

[vcutajar]

Very nice specimen. The finish of the details is amazing.

Vince

 

[gbritnell]

Hi Guys,
Yes the castings are still available. Due to poor health Shelly sold everything to Ministeam, one of our members. They now handle all of the Shelly kits. Chuck, the bore and stroke are 1.312 x 2.530. Craig, the crank is a built up affair. The shafts are drill rod and the webs are 1018 CRS. It was silver soldered together, cleaned up, trued and then the main shafts were taper pinned.
I think they offer a 1 piece crank but it didn't come with the casting set that I received. When I started working on these engines for Ministeam the drawings left a little to be desired so I redrew them in AutoCad as I went and sorted out the problems. The last set of drawings for the 1/4 scale were redrawn by another fellow in PA. He did a great job on them with 3d pictures also. A few things were changed when he redrew them but nothing that would keep you from building yours. One thing that was changed that helps the build is the original design had the cylinder liner meeting the cylinder casting at a point in the piston travel. It was redesigned to move that point above the piston travel just in case the builder didn't get a perfect joint. (flat bottom bore). Personally when I built this one I bored it all the way through and made a full length liner for it.
George

 

[mh121]

Once again lovely workmanship George. I keep looking at this model, especially now it is available over this side of the water, but I was put off with various reports of bad drawings. Maybe now it will be added to the list, after I get these two water cooled Amanco`s finished. :

MartinH

 

[Troutsqueezer]

That is quite a few levels above my Upshur George. Everything looks industrial quality and very well done. Until the last couple of weeks I've not heard of a Galloway (illustrates my level of exposure to the engine world in general) , now I see it popping up here and there.

I'm betting this is something that my mini-mill and mini-lathe are too small to handle?

 

[Dale]

having chosen this engine to be my first from castings, your photos come at the best time. They answer about a million questions I had. I hope my engine turns out half as nice as yours.

 

[gbritnell]

Hi Trout,
You're absolutely correct. I have an 11" Logan and my new knee mill and it took both of them to build this engine. I still had to borrow my buddy's arbor press to cut the keyway in the flywheels. I don't like using the tailstock on the lathe for such duties.
Dale, if you need any more pictures of information don't hesitate to ask.
gbritnell

 

[CMS]

Trout,

The Galloway is also offered in a 1/6 and a 1/8 scale that may be along the lines of what your equipment might be able to handle. BUT, when I visited the Shelly's a few years ago, both Richard and his son stressed that the 1/8 scale was very challenging due to the micro sized parts. I was able to hold one in my hand and a magnifying glass would be in order for making the igniter.

George,

I've used my drill press a time or two as a make-do arbor press, it didn't like broachs and not much leverage, but it got the job done. I bought a 2 ton palmgreen from Enco back around Thanksgiving, so I've got that base covered now!!!!

 

[kvom]

For those without arbor presses or broaches, green loctite would likely hold flywheels securely.

 

[rhankey]

George, As another alternative to broaching with your lathe tailstock, I did some broaching recently (first broaching I’ve ever done) with my milling vice. For smaller diameter parts, I broached between the vice jaws. For larger diameter parts, I broached between the back of the movable vice jaw and an angle plate clamped to the milling table. For broaching between the jaws, I removed one of the bolts that affixes the removable jaw face, and ran the broach into the bolt hole. When the broach bottomed out in the bolt hole, I backed off and passed the broach through a large socket too. The vice had no trouble driving the broach through some rather thick cast iron and SS parts. Misapplying a vice for broaching sat a whole lot better than misapplying much more cherished lathe or mill for the task.

Robin