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I have ben using a different design for my steam engines for the last few years because they don't leak if you make them right. Here is a sketch of what I am on about, plus they are very versatile, you can control all sorts of issues with them, from normal speed and reversing to use on my large...

They look very much like BU type bearings, explained here https://www.bearingboys.co.uk/BU-Type-Bearings/MB0610BU-Split-Bearing-Bush-14841-p We used to use DU bearings which were high precision, riding along ground shafts John

This engine was desgned by Westbury to use a flash steam boiler to actually compete with the two stroke engines of the time, so anything above 80psi (and that has to be continual, so a flash steam boiler had to be used) could be used. I think it is a little like a turbine (which I have also...

Hi Anatol, The picture shown on the Hemingway site is actually the one I built from their castings many years ago. http://www.hemingwaykits.com/acatalog/The_Cygnet_Royal___Edgar_T_Westbury.html Stew, who only lives around the corner from me came and had a look at my engine and plans before...

I have shown this chart a fair few times, and I will most probably have to show it again sometime. Very easy to use, by following the lines down and across will soon show you which materials work well together, or not.

Bob, Don't even think about grinding the jaws in a 3 jaw, I have done it a few times when people didn't believe me, and it soon proved to them that grinding isn't a good solution unless you can throw large amounts of cash and valuale time into it. Even then, you will be lucky to get an very...

If you are trying to get down to size, then exterior hones might be what you require. If you are just trying to get a nice polished surface finish, then very fine wire wool should obtain that. I bought my set of hones from Polly engineering, but I still need to make them (one of my first jobs...

Hi Baz, When I upgraded (downmotored) my Atlas 10F to a half horse four pole (to slow it down) I used this type of switch to do the honours and it worked perfectly for many years. These seem to be out of stock at this time but should be available somewhere in your country or china...

John, It most probably is not your arbor at all, but the slitting saw itself. When they are sharpened, they don't usually redress the grinding stone half way through, so by the end of sharpening, the stone is slightly worn, and so doesn't take as much material off the cutting edge. The slitting...

The main boiler tube will try to suck up any heat applied to what you are trying to solder onto it. I have made boilers to that size, but I used at that time, two MAP type torches, one to play onto the main tube so that it doesn't suck too much heat away and one to get up to temperature around...

P, A basic design with very elegant looks, well done that man. I personally would prefer to see a lot more engines like this, I think it gives a lot of stimulation to would be model engineers and beginners, something that could easily be made without too much trouble and ending up looking...

Viagra works wonders for stiffening some things up, but that is a solution for something totally different. Go with the nyloc nut and partially thread it from the steel part first with a tapered tap. By experimenting a little on depth of penetration from the steel to nylon core you sould end up...

I usually stock up on mandolin strings, you can buy them singly or sets. Over the years you tend to get a good stock in so you can make almost anything that requires music wire (called piano wire in the UK). John

Anatol, You could have a takeoff almost anywhere, bearing in mind, if you used a flat belt off the flywheel you are in fact gearing up the output, so loading the engine more. There are pictures of my horizontal version which had a geared takeoff instead of the flywheel, designed for a paddle...

Dave, I think the first person to show this tool was Marv Klotz. If you go to this page, towards the bottom, there is a video of it in action. https://clamptitetools.com/ Hope this helps John

Stroke = Total stroke of the piston, so with the piston at the very top of the bore, measurement from the bottom of the piston to the bottom of the bore equals the stroke. So with a 10mm height for the piston, then the bore would be 30mm long (plus maybe a tiny bit more for the end cap and...

It all depends on bore and stroke. Taking a 'square' engine with say a 10mm bore and 10mm stroke, you will end up with a fairly high revving but low torque engine. Now if you go to say 10mm bore with a 20mm stroke (which is the type I used to build) you end up with a lower revving engine with...

"They would not be if rust were a problem" Charles, I used to fix a lot of broken steam and i/c engines, and about 75% of them was rust related. When I asked the builder what the parts were made of, because not all of them knew, most would reply silver steel. Maybe the reason for cast iron not...

Maybe you can't reach it is because it is a UK listing, I got to it no trouble. John

Another great little engine George. Very nicely done indeed John