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Hello Tom, After reading your reply, I rechecked the drawings and instructions for the vise to determine what the dimension of the keyway was. My print of the Moveable Vise Jaw calls out to "MILL KEYWAY .125" WIDE x .047" DEEP". That would mean that the keyway requires an 1/8" broach and the...

Hello Tom, Thanks for answering my numerous questions. I will make a fixture and a test piece. I even have some 4140 from one of my student's precision vise projects from a few years back. I was a Machine Tool Technology instructor for the last ten years of my machining career and really...

Hello, Congratulations on a project very well done. What a great project for your students as well. They are fortunate to have an instructor like you. I bought a set of castings a while back and they are absolutely beautiful. It is one of the nicest model engineering kits currently available...

Hello all, To collapse the last thread on the T-nuts that I make, I use an old ball bearing of an appropriate size and an arbor press to neatly compress the last thread and prevent any stud or bolt from passing through and blowing out the T-slot that it is used in. Regards, Mike

Hello, If you are considering building this 9 cylinder radial engine from Ageless Engines http://www.agelessengines.com/9cyl.htm , then a 9" swing lathe is required. I believe that the original engine was designed and built on a 9" South Bend lathe. Regards, Mike

Hello Steve, I think this topic was covered in some early issues of 'Strictly I.C.' magazine, maybe by Roderick Jenkins? I don't have quick access to them at the moment, so I can't check now. However, if you have the magazines and the indexes, it may be worth a look. Regards, Mike

Hello: Before I set-up to turn cast iron on my lathe, I protect the ways and the area near the work with aluminum foil. It can easily be formed into temporary chip shield and really saves on clean-up time afterward. Another tip: wipe down the lathe before hand of any oil film where it is not...

Hello Harold, You are doing a great job of building and documenting your engine. Your Odd's & Ends engines are also beautifully done. I am really enjoying following along as well. One tip that I can offer relates to the Governor Toggle Arm Support and the method that you used to find the...

Hello: Could it be a Stuart Turner Sirius? I understand they used them in WW2 for powering radios in the field. Regards, Mike

Hello: I have an Atlas 7" Shaper and a 4" Kurt Vise that I use on my milling machine. The 4" Kurt vise is way too big for this machine. Although you could mount it on the machine with an adapter plate or drill and tap the table, I think it would take up too much room and seriously limit your...

Hello: Just sent you a private message. Thanks. Kind regards, Mike

Hello Yogi, You and your brother are very talented and have built two beautiful engines. Your being on leave explains the torrid pace of the build. Great planning and execution to pull this off in such a short period of time. I hope you reconsider about posting in the future. Your work is an...

Hello: The complete plans were just published in Model Engine Builder Issue 24, April, 2011.

Hello Elmer: I am from Nashville, TN and will be attending for the first time. Something has always come up in the past, but not this year. I am so looking forward to seeing the work of Steve Huck, George Britnell and everyone else who shares their work and knowledge on this board in person...

Hello Arnold, If you are referring to the advice and responses that I have tried to provide here, first I did show examples of the threading tools that I made and use. And second, I tried to provide information that is not easy to find in any one place and answer questions to the best of my...

Hello, I think that is too small of a diameter for what you are planning. You might consider a tapered arbor or lathe mandrel (.0005" per inch) to hold your part. The smallest standard commercially available mandrel is 1/8" diameter, but your .098" diameter only has to be slightly longer than...

Hello again, Looking at your chip tray and the relief near the headstock, it looks like your lathe may have originally been a foot-powered version. Do you still have any of that equipment? I know that it isn't practical to use now, but it sure would be cool. Thm: Regards, Mike

Hello John, What a beautiful lathe. Did you restore it? Andrew is spot on for spindle speed recommendation. I just looked on lathes.com.uk and found a Drummond speed plate from a similar vintage lathe and the maximum RPM was 875. In 1908, the predominate tool material was high carbon tool...

Hello MB, Magnificent work. I have thoroughly enjoyed following your build(s) and always look forward to your next post. I hope the remaining assembly and initial starting and sorting out goes as smoothly as possible. Thank you for taking the time and effort to share this with us. I certainly...

Hi Rich, Nice one. A few suggestions that can make single point threading on the lathe a bit easier: When you are preparing your work for single point threading, it is good machining practice to turn a chamfer on the external thread's major diameter @ 45 degrees to just under the minor...