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It has a gimble like the Starrett but it's different than a B&S. If it's unmarked it will be difficult to find out.

It's an incomplete Starrett 65 center tester or another manufacturer equivalent.

Uh, the clapper box doesn't help for this. The later hydraulic shapers actually lift the tool from the work on the back stroke.

The much larger shapers that were setup to use carbide tooling had an automatic tool lift so the carbide wasn't drug backwards over the work. Without this feature, the tip will quickly chip. Not that it matters for these tiny shapers as they already have enough trouble attempting to fully...

You're gonna miss it! Probably the Aloris AXA tool post will be too big for a 8x lathe as you will have trouble adjusting down to the center line.

The biggest difference of Safety-Silv vs Easy-Flo is the lack of cadmium. I'm surprised Easy-Flo is still available in Canada as I think the cadmium solders are banned in Europe.

If an old war veteran lathe has tons of brewer's droop in the tailstock, you might as well use the scale trick for tool height anyways as the bed ways will certainly have up's and down's similar to a roller coaster. Since the tool height will change as it traverses the bed it's no use getting...

If you don't mind twisting the tool post around you can also mark the side of the tailstock quill at the lathe centerline. Mine came from the factory like that and it's very handy.

In this CCMT/CCGT-21.51 boring bar the screw size is M2.5-.45. For screws, I ordered a 10 pack of each needed size straight from China years ago. Since I have plenty of spares, I never lose them. One thing that helps is using these quality Wiha Torx drivers as they have a small disc at the end...

These are the pressure gauges I use with my Jensen engine boilers: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283853920576 These are about as small as they get assuming you are not exceeding 30 PSI running pressure, which is what I want for those engines as the relief valve blows at a little over 20 PSI. I...

What silver solder are you using? Like you said, that torch is on the small size for this type of work.

Your Corliss engine is superb!!! Beautiful job!

The clutch seems to be working great as you can stall the engine with it engaged. Good design!

Awesome but way over my pay grade. I'm just happy to hear another issue of MEB is in the works.

That's great but that's not how all lathes work. You need to swap gears and select a setting on the QCGB on mine for metric which is pretty common on older lathes.

Buying used gears will always be quicker and less work, but you need the gear bore diameter, PA and DP to make sure you are getting the correct gears for your lathe. Don't trust the seller. I don't what that is for a Sheldon lathe. You can make gears as well, but it's time consuming. When...

So nice! I know on social media the little Monarchs have quite a following but I would step right over one for a Hardinge HLV like you have now. Please tell us more. Do you get any tooling with it?

This hasn't been entirely true since the new Arachne engine was released in the Cura 5.x series last year. It's been incorporated into the Prusa Slicer (ala open source) as well. https://press.ultimaker.com/ultimaker-sets-new-3d-printing-milestone-with-the-release-of-ultimaker-cura-50/...

Thanks for posting pictures of your dad's shop! He was obviously a very talented builder and it's fascinating to see how he packed so many tools and supplies into a relatively small area. Everything he needed, well organized and with no unused or wasted space.

You might want to checkout the many videos on YouTube of people prepping 3D printed pieces for cosplay helmets, armor and such. It seems to involve filler and a lot of sanding... Another thing to research is printing with ABS and then using an acetone vapor bath. Perhaps this is less work.