Search results

Nothing wrong with the bit of additional air cooling that type of set up provides ;)

Yes that should be all that is needed, sometimes useful to have a switch between battery and the ignition. You can get battery holders and switches with various small plugs used for Radio Control https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321571990587 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/401513628123

As I posted the other day the $10 "Pulse generators" will do for a small engine like a Webster, just add a battery -Four AA or similar to give 6V. No unsightly automotive points or big coil so you can hide it all in the base for the engine. See my posts in this thread...

This is the one I made up to convert to BA though I mostly use metric now (small hex) You can buy small hex UN fixings from the likes of American Model Engineering https://godshallscustommachining.com/collections/frontpage?page=4

Just a quick update to say that Blackgates are now able to supply a set of my metric drawings which comprise 14 A4 sheets, one GA one with 3D views, and the remaining 12 of the individual parts. Just mention you want the metric ones when ordering a set of castings. I'm also half way through...

It's coming together well. Without looking back did you decide on the final scale? I'm still inclined to say just a 3 casting engine (frames and flywheel) as getting the detail into the other parts will not be easy if cast. When you start to scale things down by such a large amount a different...

Depends on how fast you want it to "buzz" two would do but four will see it sparking a lot more, have a look at Graham's other video

Might get more results with pulse generator but this is the one I bought on UK ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203060489106 If you look at Grahams (Grum C) he has it with the spark showing. The push buttom type also work OK, the likes of Jan Ridders pulls the guts out of them to use for is...

For the cost of a spark generator off ebay at less than $10 you may as well just buy one of those. No hall sensors to go wrong. And it's a buzz type rather than a single spark Simple 4 wires - Positive, Negative/ground, sparkplug and the last wire just needs simple make and break contact to...

Don't forget the Flywheel and crankshaft mounted governors Looks like yours does not have the pully safety arm and the shaft for the adjuster is too short so nothing for it to act against anyway. So not a case of it going missing just one supplied without that feature. Speeder screw and...

Even a small traction engine with that size grate such as a Minnie is a pain to keep the fire going, those that do run them get better results with the kerro soaked charcoal as I mentioned earlier. If you are relying on the blast nozzle (exhaust steam) to give you enough draft to keep the fire...

As I said trying to get such a small coal fire to burn will be very hard, getting sufficient heat out of it even harder might have better luck with small pieces of charcoal soaked in Kerro Poke a few hols in that can you are holding and see if you can get coal to burn in it, if it does then...

For practical coal firing you really want to start looking at a 5-6" diameter multitube boiler, if it is your first boiler and venture into silver soldering then stick with something simpler to start with. Trying to get the dr\aft and keep a smaller boiler going can be a pain that is why gas or...

I've seen it mentioned before. Options are to use a ball nose cutter along the grooves, plunge with a milling cutter to increase the covers PCD or turn a waist on the studs so the unthreaded part is a smaller dia

Pat, that is not the same engine kit Conley was 1/4 scale, the Hurst one that Martin do is 1/3rd scale

But costs would soon be higher if more than one or two were required as printing each time will cost far more then using a one off pattern so not the answer to everything. A lot will depend on the specific part, something like that outboard gearbox with all the external webs would be better...

It is when they start to disolve and that gets carried into the carb needle that things get worse. Regular RC Engine Tygon is much too hard to work within the pump, they do make a specific one for Peri pumps but not so easy to come by in small amounts

Just be careful with the silicon tube in the pump. Hydrocarbons in the fuel will make the silicon swell that is why you have to use Tygon type tube for fuel lines on 4-stroke models if running on petrol. Same reason fog buster lubrication systems that use these pumps need to run fully synthetic...

I use the S/S ignitions same as Sid suggested and have done for about 15years. I don't use them with a hall sensor, just simple two wires and contacts that make the circuit when they touch. This setup looks more scale than using ignition points and can be setup in many places on the engine not...

I use F360 (free) mostly for the CAM but do alter my imported Alibre files and create the odd new part and get on OK with it. Some features are better than Alibre.