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You need to have the correct cam leading. Brian why not Loctite the two cams in place, if you get it wrong pull the shaft out, heat to break the Loctite and then reposition the other way round. Saves making a new cam with screw boss. As I and others have said forget about the 2nd cylinder...

The OP had posted pdf copies of the whole build from the book not photos.

If you have got steel then try it, may be a pig to machine if it is unknown but could be OK and maybe only a bit harder to machine than the leaded 12L14. CI or Aluminium piston with O ring would be my suggestion for a beginner. lapped cast iron piston and no ring can wait for another project...

Yes a bright red is what you want I just do it by eye. The thicker the material the longer it needs to sit at that temp so the whole thing gets hot enough. For the science the process is "graphitizing annealing" this converts the hard carbides which have formed into Pearlite and Graphite I have...

The Compact 8 takes 32007XC P6 bearings, not sur ewhet the 8E may have However the common 918 Emco clones also have 32007 taper Roller bearings so quite likely the 8E does too.

Where it has always been, topic heading of "Plans" Though I'm not sure posting all the pages from the book is the best thing to do as they are likely still under copyright

How many hours of use would that equate to? Yearly is not a good indicator as they could be getting used daily, weekly on only when the Schaublin's are all in use.

The Compact 8 is belt drive, not the gears and two speed motor of the Ecomats. Same bed, carriage etc though You may have to put some bolts through the chuck mounting flange and nuts behind and use thos eto jack the spindle out of teh head. Put some flat plate under the ends of the bolts so...

Yes the spindle really needs to come out to check the bearings and that they all is well, try it at each stage of disassembly rotating the chuck by hand as it will help show if a part is hitting something. The Chinese machine that I have now has no issues with the spindle going tight and...

The O ring grove is set close enough to the shoulder that the side of the ring is less than 0.375 from the shoulder and that should provide enough friction to stop the throttle moving. So should not need those extra parts. If you have gone too deep with the o ring groove then a simple shim...

If you have an open fire of wood burner put it in there for the evening and then leave to cool SLOWLY over night in the ashes. Failing that a bucket(metal) or large metal tin with a few holes for air punched in the bottom will do. Us ecoal or a good sack of wood putting the castings into the...

I used to have an Emcomat 8.6 which was the Austrian made geared head version of the C8. Unless you are putting far too much pressure on the tailstock the bearings should not be going tight when you use it. Are you checking the preload on a warmed up machine or one that has been stood in a...

You can buy more flexible filement but would have to find a use for the other 99% of the drum

I'm not sure you have your links from the bottom bell crank in the right place. It is usual to raise and lower the expansion link. As it is raised or lowered you then get a "straight line" from the eccentric and it's rod to the horizontal rod that goes to the die block and then onto the valve...

In practical terms as this is not going to be an exact copy I think it would be easiest to base the valve gear on a known model, just scaling it to suit your engine. The curved expansion link is the most common and not too hard to machine with a rotary table so finding suitable examples would...

The flat clips are difficult to source even the larger CM-6 size and why I buy them from S/S in America as not available in the UK or from far eastern suppliers. With no insulation on the flat clip there is a risk of the spark jumping to your push rods and not going to the plug. Why not...

I use the clear silicon ones that S/S do/did, same as Gordons link. It is a spring inside the boot which grips the end of the plug. They also do the flat type but with your engine there would be a lot more risk of the spark jumping to where it should not as the flat plate is not insulated

Kit supplier gives some historic info https://www.steamofsteel.de/p/gussteilsatz-st-helens It has turned out well, what were the castings like? I posted here a while ago that this company were now suppling his engines but would be good to know what the quality is like

Didn't you have a heat treat oven that you got a couple of years ago, why not try that for now.

Assuming NZ regulations are similar to those in Australia then it would likely need to be done by a suitably coded welder and you would have to do the full design calculations plus there are issues with cracks from threads etc. But I don't think the Aussie code even has a section for Stainless...